Rxv wont move please help

[seanb97072]

My new 2010 rxv wont move. I was installing a battery meter and hooked it up to the SOC wiring in the dash, soon as I was done the meter only reads 34v and the cart wont move.
What I've tried so far
Tow /run over and over
The directions on the back of the controller box nothing
Undid the brake and checked for voltage none no mater what your doing
I do have 34v on my meter in tow or run
Ive wiggled the plug under the cup holder nothing
So I check continuity and its fine
Ive checked the blue wire from the charge port it looks fine
Ive undone the 10 gauge black wire from the battery pack and the brake is still engaged please help guys

[Golferdave]

Does the charger work ?
34 volts is real low volts
1st thing , get the batts fully charged

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by seanb97072

My new 2010 rxv wont move. I was installing a battery meter and hooked it up to the SOC wiring in the dash, soon as I was done the meter only reads 34v and the cart wont move.
What I've tried so far
Tow /run over and over
The directions on the back of the controller box nothing
Undid the brake and checked for voltage none no mater what your doing
I do have 34v on my meter in tow or run
Ive wiggled the plug under the cup holder nothing
So I check continuity and its fine
Ive checked the blue wire from the charge port it looks fine
Ive undone the 10 gauge black wire from the battery pack and the brake is still engaged please help guys

I'm sorry to say, you've likely destroyed the controller in your cart. Let me explain.

The SOC meter in an RXV is not really a SOC meter. It is a display unit for the controller. The controller contains the SOC meter circuitry, and sends 5 volt logic level signals (over the grey wire) to the display unit. The 48V + and - wires are only for powering that remote display. People do this a lot, accidentally mixing 48V with 5V circuits at that SOC meter, with dire consequences. It will often take out more than the controller too. It can take out the 5V throttle and brake pedal encoders, and the 5V motor speed encoder. It can be a very costly mistake.

Replacement Danaher controllers are difficult to find and expensive. I promote replacing Danaher controllers with the newer Curtis controllers used in the 2012 and later RXVs. You can buy a brand new 2016 Curtis controller kit for $300 + $25 shipping from a guy named Eddie on eBay and convert the Danaher harness yourself by following my instructions.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/172538050896

and

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ocumented.html

I hope this helps.

Bob

[seanb97072]

I never touched the grey wire only the red and black wire. And I have 51 volts at the pack my digital meter shows 34v

[seanb97072]

Rxv wont move please help
I never touched the grey wire only the red and black wire. And I have 51 volts at the pack my digital meter shows 34vUOTE=BobBoyce;1355128]I'm sorry to say, you've likely destroyed the controller in your cart. Let me explain.

The SOC meter in an RXV is not really a SOC meter. It is a display unit for the controller. The controller contains the SOC meter circuitry, and sends 5 volt logic level signals (over the grey wire) to the display unit. The 48V + and - wires are only for powering that remote display. People do this a lot, accidentally mixing 48V with 5V circuits at that SOC meter, with dire consequences. It will often take out more than the controller too. It can take out the 5V throttle and brake pedal encoders, and the 5V motor speed encoder. It can be a very costly mistake.

Replacement Danaher controllers are difficult to find and expensive. I promote replacing Danaher controllers with the newer Curtis controllers used in the 2012 and later RXVs. You can buy a brand new 2016 Curtis controller kit for $300 + $25 shipping from a guy named Eddie on eBay and convert the Danaher harness yourself by following my instructions.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/172538050896

and

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ocumented.html

I hope this helps.

Bob[/QUOTE]

[seanb97072]

Rxv wont move please help
I never touched the grey wire only the red and black wire. And I have 51 volts at the pack my digital meter shows 34vUOTE=BobBoyce;1355128]I'm sorry to say, you've likely destroyed the controller in your cart. Let me explain.

The SOC meter in an RXV is not really a SOC meter. It is a display unit for the controller. The controller contains the SOC meter circuitry, and sends 5 volt logic level signals (over the grey wire) to the display unit. The 48V + and - wires are only for powering that remote display. People do this a lot, accidentally mixing 48V with 5V circuits at that SOC meter, with dire consequences. It will often take out more than the controller too. It can take out the 5V throttle and brake pedal encoders, and the 5V motor speed encoder. It can be a very costly mistake.

Replacement Danaher controllers are difficult to find and expensive. I promote replacing Danaher controllers with the newer Curtis controllers used in the 2012 and later RXVs. You can buy a brand new 2016 Curtis controller kit for $300 + $25 shipping from a guy named Eddie on eBay and convert the Danaher harness yourself by following my instructions.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/172538050896

and

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ocumented.html

I hope this helps.

Bob[/QUOTE]

[BobBoyce]

Because it is a logic line, it does not take much coupling to take it out. Someone can wipe out the controller just by physically touching the pins in the connector or the wires themselves with their fingers, if there are enough contaminants on the surface of the wires that can carry charge. It is very delicate circuitry inside of the controller that the grey wire connects to. It is an output pin of the microcontroller chip that runs the cart.

It usually takes a hard hit, like direct electrical contact between the red and grey wires, even for a fraction of a second, to take out the throttle/brake encoders and motor speed sensor. Most people actually kill their controller and sensors when they insert their multimeter probes into the SOC guage connector to read the voltages on the 3 pins, not when actually tapping into the red and black wires. The pins are close together. This happens when people want to add a digital voltmeter to the dash, without knowing the risk of what they are doing. They assume that the SOC guage is a simple SOC meter.

RXVs are essentially a microcomputer on wheels, so they are very prone to controller damage. This is why most on here that know the RXVs will tell others to never mess with or tap into the wires or connectors on the RXV key switch or SOC guage.

I have guided a few people on here through recovering from such mistakes. Which is why I created that documented conversion post, to make it easier.

If your voltmeter is reading low, check the voltage with the key on, at controller terminals B- and B+. If that voltage is not correct at the controller, then it is time to check the voltages at the two large solenoid terminals. If it is correct, then check the voltages at the 2 small solenoid terminals. The small solenoid terminal with the red wire is switched KSI. You may have a blown fuse or a bad fuse connection on the switched KSI line. That fuse is under the plastic cover over the controller. There may be 2 fuseholders there. One has 2 red wires and the other has 2 yellow wires. They are plugged into blank caps that are pinned to the plastic cover with christmas tree fasteners. They are blade type automotive fuses. KSI is a 10 amp fuse and the other one, if present, is a 7.5 amp fuse.

Good luck

[seanb97072]

Bob I've tried the voltage between the two large leads on the selinoid and it's 51 also I've checked both fuses both good. Also there is no voltage no mater what I do on the wiring to the brake. And with the key in FNR the battery gauge reads 34 where I'm in tow or run.
Is there any way to reset the computer to try to clear a fault if I have that ?

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by seanb97072

Bob I've tried the voltage between the two large leads on the selinoid and it's 51 also I've checked both fuses both good. Also there is no voltage no mater what I do on the wiring to the brake. And with the key in FNR the battery gauge reads 34 where I'm in tow or run.
Is there any way to reset the computer to try to clear a fault if I have that ?

There will be no voltage to the motor brake until the controller passes self test. Switching the run/tow switch to tow with the key on will energize the motor brake and release it. Be sure to switch it back to run after testing to prevent it from discharging your battery.

Switch the run/tow switch to tow. Unplug the large 23 pin connector from the controller and plug it back in a couple of times to make sure the contacts are wiped. Switch the run/tow switch it back to run. Unplug the 4 pin plug from the 4 pin socket at the motor speed sensor on the motor, and connect your test meter to the black and orange wires at each end of the plug. Turn the key on and measure the voltage. Let me know what you read there.

Unless you have access to an RXV handset, you will not be able to run diagnostics. There is no reset option. If the controller is damaged, a handset will do no good. Where are you located?

Bob

[seanb97072]

Chesapeake va.ill try that procedure after work