2001 Electric PDS gets only 5 mph

[radioman]

What we need is a 36-50 volt electric ice pick to do some preliminary troubleshooting on these high current circuits for voltage under load.

[jetfan1950]

Picked up another meter. Readings make more sense. I had charged it and let it rest more than 12 hours that first time. Now I get 38.1V for the pack. I get 6.1 v per battery. I never get a beep. I ran the cart around the block. Under load the voltage drops to 34.9 to 35.3. I also purchased an 84 E-Z-GO back in Nov. I get 12 mph in that cart. Voltage was also at 38V and dropped to 37.0 volts after a 15 minute ride. I didn't monitor the pack during the ride (I'll have to set up some clips that will fit and stay in that receptacle to monitor during the ride). I checked the 01 cart after this 15 minutes and it was reading 37.3 V. I forgot to buy a hydrometer to check the cells. I'm guessing that's the way to find the bad battery (ies)?

I could swap batteries with the 84. Would that be best? One by one and then check after each battery swap?

One other question. Should I try switching the charger? The 84 has an old Lester with the manual timer. The 01 charger is auto shutoff.

[JohnnieB]

Your batteries may be a little weak, but I don't think one is dropping out.
I'm more inclined to suspect speed sensor or ITS issues, or a bad controller.
Also, take a look at the insulation on the F1&F2 cable where the are routed around the battery box frame.

The easiest way to check for a battery failing under load, is to clip lead your DVM test leads to them one at a time and monitor while driving. You'll spot the bad one(s) in just a few feet.

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What are the brand and model numbers of the chargers? (picture of faceplate)

[jetfan1950]

The charger models: 1984: Lester 36LC25T12. The 2001 is an EZGO Power Wise 28115 G01. I'll have to figure out how to post the pictures from a web location. I am going out now to load test each of the batteries (I charged them yesterday and they've been resting for over 12 hours). I also bought a hydrometer and will check those readings as well.

[JohnnieB]

Both are decent chargers and are easy to repair if they fail.

Here is what I've got on both

[radioman]

I repaired a PW charger once. This charger is amazingly simple. In this case it would not put out but 5 amps or so. The problem proved to be the 8 Microfarad (MFD) capacitor had decreased in value to 3 Microfarads. Open capacitors are the most often overlooked components in power supply troubleshooting. Nice to have a manual now. I might get the chance to work on another one someday.

[radioman]

Jetfan1950; It might be a good idea to check the internal battery in the DVM you were using before you can it.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by radioman

I repaired a PW charger once. This charger is amazingly simple. In this case it would not put out but 5 amps or so. The problem proved to be the 8 Microfarad (MFD) capacitor had decreased in value to 3 Microfarads. Open capacitors are the most often overlooked components in power supply troubleshooting. Nice to have a manual now. I might get the chance to work on another one someday.

The Ferroresonant Transformer types all work pretty much the same, but the capacitor value is matched to the transformer core design, so you have to use about the same value to get them to work right.

Fortunately, the boosted (with capacitor)and un-boosted (without capacitor) secondary voltage are the same for the different transformer core designs, so you can find out if the Capacitior is the right value just by checking the unloaded secondary output voltage with and without the capacitor connected.

Interestingly, the charger is transformer and capacitor, plus the diodes and ammeter. The control board (or timer om older ones) just turns the AC line power on and off.

[radioman]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

The Ferroresonant Transformer types all work pretty much the same, but the capacitor value is matched to the transformer core design, so you have to use about the same value to get them to work right.

Fortunately, the boosted (with capacitor)and un-boosted (without capacitor) secondary voltage are the same for the different transformer core designs, so you can find out if the Capacitior is the right value just by checking the unloaded secondary output voltage with and without the capacitor connected.

Interestingly, the charger is transformer and capacitor, plus the diodes and ammeter. The control board (or timer om older ones) just turns the AC line power on and off.

The defective capacitor had the rating stamped on it. I used a fan motor starting capacitor for a air conditioner to replace it. It had better voltage rating on it than the original one. This is the only PE charger I have worked on and it happens to belong to a family member who has burnt up two motors, three controllers and stripped two brake drums.

[yurtle]

I hope you mean motor run cap. A start cap won't hold up, as it's not designed for continuous duty. Generally, start caps are in plastic cases and run caps are metal.