1993 club car ds no go!!

[TB72]

Hi all!! I recently picked up a 93 ds with no batteries. I installed batteries and confirmed the charger is properly working and batteries are charged, but the cart doesn’t move. Forward or reverse. Only hear a slight click maybe micro switch in vglide area. Please help! Where do I need to begin looking??
Thanks I’m advance! I’m new to club cars especially older ones.

[Reuter5]

The V-Glide might be shot. We had the same issue that you're describing. We have a 99 CC DS and had it for about 3 years now. The first year we had it we went through 2 v-glides. They literally melted/burnt up. I ended up converting it to a solid state with an Alltrax controller and we couldn't be happier. I'd be more than happy to discuss more if your interested.

[TB72]

Thanks for the response. I should have mentioned originally, cart has controller not resistor coil. Any way to test the v glide??

[Reuter5]

That is odd that it has both. At least in my opinion. Is it the
"speed controller"? Usually the V-Glide will have Resistor Coils, does yours have them? The easiest way to check the V-glide that I found is to literally take it out and inspect it. It could also possibly be a bad Forward and Reverse switch.

[TB72]

No coils in this one.....

[CP241]

Originally Posted by Reuter5

That is odd that it has both. At least in my opinion. Is it the
"speed controller"? Usually the V-Glide will have Resistor Coils, does yours have them? The easiest way to check the V-glide that I found is to literally take it out and inspect it. It could also possibly be a bad Forward and Reverse switch.

The earlier (pre-MCOR) club cars used v-glide for both toaster coils carts as well as controller carts.

The toaster coil carts had heavy wires and passed current through the v-glide.

The controller carts had smaller wires connecting to the v-glide and inside of it are a bunch of resistors (stepping from 5k-0 ohms depending on throttle position).

There is also a microswitch inside the v-glide that should activate the solenoid.

Start with the basics here.

Pack voltage. Pack voltage with pedal depressed. Then putting a meter on the 2 SMALL posts on the solenoid. Press the gas pedal and see what the voltage reads.

Do the same for the 2 large terminals on the solenoid. And also check each of the larger terminals voltage between the pack negative and the large terminal. Both with pedal up and pedal depressed

Do any and all testing with the rear end of the cart on jack stands for safety of the cart and your garage door. If the cart up and decides to suddenly work, and you hurt yourself it’s on you (and probably jack daniels) but the cart and the door are innocent

It happens. Just sayin

[TB72]

Thanks. Will write down these readings and get back with you. Probably be later tomorrow though.

[TB72]

Pack voltage- 38.2 volt
Large post on solenoid, one side is = to pack voltage the other side 37.8
No voltage at either small terminal on solenoid no matter the throttle position....

[Boblay]

Originally Posted by CP241

The earlier (pre-MCOR) club cars used v-glide for both toaster coils carts as well as controller carts.

The toaster coil carts had heavy wires and passed current through the v-glide.

The controller carts had smaller wires connecting to the v-glide and inside of it are a bunch of resistors (stepping from 5k-0 ohms depending on throttle position).

There is also a microswitch inside the v-glide that should activate the solenoid.

Start with the basics here.

Pack voltage. Pack voltage with pedal depressed. Then putting a meter on the 2 SMALL posts on the solenoid. Press the gas pedal and see what the voltage reads.

Do the same for the 2 large terminals on the solenoid. And also check each of the larger terminals voltage between the pack negative and the large terminal. Both with pedal up and pedal depressed

Do any and all testing with the rear end of the cart on jack stands for safety of the cart and your garage door. If the cart up and decides to suddenly work, and you hurt yourself it’s on you (and probably jack daniels) but the cart and the door are innocent

It happens. Just sayin

Nice input

[CP241]

https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/atta...6&d=1181415365

Ok so your problem is on the activation circuit. That’s the small terminals on the solenoid. The yellow should be pack negative. The green/white should show pack voltage when the key is on, the shifter is in gear, and the pedal is depressed.

I’m gonna take a wild stab in the dark and say the yellow wire is okay. You likely have a bad microswitch or key switch. You’ll have to use your meter and trace it down.

I’ve included the wiring diagram above. It’s kinda hard to read, I’d recommend printing it out and tracing the wires you need to chase with a highlighter to make it a bit easier to follow.

It’s your choice if you want to chase from the solenoid back, or start at the key switch and move forward. I would personally pick whichever has easier access for you to test. Keep in mind the required steps to activate the circuit when testing (key, gear shifter, pedal). If you forget to turn on the key or don’t have it shifted into gear then you can test all you want and you’re not gonna see the voltage you should.

I would continue testing with the back wheels on jack stands. If it’s simply a corroded connection (and it’s certainly possible) then simply touching the connector may make it take off.


Edit: and I apologize if any of the wire colors I listed are wrong. I was trying to follow the diagram on my phone, easier said than done