01-22-2020, 08:03 PM | #31 |
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Charlottesburg Va
Posts: 8,987
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Re: FE290 engine rebuild
Looks like a cat exploded in there.
Nice job on the write-up so far! I’ve wanted to do a similar step by step pic process DIY thread like this for a while, but I always forget to take pics when I’m working. Three beers in there’s bolts and parts everywhere and an engine on the floor and I go “Dangit forgot again!” |
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01-22-2020, 09:44 PM | #32 | |
Nincompoop village idiot
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9,690
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Re: FE290 engine rebuild
Quote:
no idea what lived in there, but they built quite the home for themselves. That's just what's left, I already had a large pile of the same stuff on my floor under the cart that I had to pull out to get to bolts and stuff to pull the motor! I frequently find myself in the same situation With the job change and a big move coming soon, this will probably be the last cart I rebuild for a while so thought I'd try and do something different and helpful some folks can benefit from. :) |
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01-23-2020, 12:54 AM | #33 |
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9,690
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Re: FE290 engine rebuild
Going back together
First I always like to run a hone through the cylinder. You're not trying to bore it out so it only takes a few seconds, but you want to clear the glaze off the cylinder walls for a couple reasons. 1. To make sure theres no vertical scoring you didnt notice before. And 2. To help the new rings seat. Then take both the top and 2nd ring and set them into the cylinder. Use the piston to push them evenly (separate from one another) and then measure the ring end gap with a feeler gauge. I've got .015" here on both The ring going on the top of the piston is the one with the chrome edge. The 2nd ring isnt chrome. The 2nd ring has an R on the top side next to the end of it. Refer to the service manual for ring orientation |
01-23-2020, 01:00 AM | #34 |
Nincompoop village idiot
Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9,690
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Re: FE290 engine rebuild
Once the rings are installed, insert the piston into the cylinder. I use a nylon trim tool but everybody has their own methods here.
Next, install the counterbalance weight onto the crankshaft. This one the link rods are tight so I did not replace those bushings, maybe I'll do another write up on that next time :) Once the counterbalance weight is installed, install the crankshaft into the motor case. Then, install the counterbalance weight shaft in the bottom of the motor. It seals with an o ring into the block, replace if necessary. |
01-23-2020, 01:06 AM | #35 |
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9,690
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Re: FE290 engine rebuild
Next, clean the old gasket material off of the case. Yeah, I've had a drink or two and should have done this before now but better late than never
Install the camshaft and tappets. There is a dot on the camshaft and the crankshaft that should align. Note to align the camshaft with the oil pump before setting timing if the oil pump has not been removed. There is a "slot" in the end of the camshaft that matches up to the oil pump. |
01-23-2020, 01:15 AM | #36 |
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9,690
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Re: FE290 engine rebuild
Next, to the head once the side cover is installed and torqued..
Remove the e clip in the middle of the rocker shaft. Then remove the rocker shaft and rocker arms. Then using a valve tool, remove the keepers and the valves. I stick something under the valve and just use the attachment from my cake tool to compress it and remove the valve keepers but that's just how I do it |
01-23-2020, 08:17 AM | #37 |
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9,690
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Re: FE290 engine rebuild
Sorry, meant to attach a better pic of the timing marks. Was getting late and forgot to upload it
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01-23-2020, 08:41 AM | #38 |
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9,690
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Re: FE290 engine rebuild
Once the valves are removed, inspect for wear. You could measure them, but they're not that expensive so I'll usually just replace them. You can see the ridge worn in the intake valve here compared to the new one.
You'll need to lap the new valves to make sure they seal well. I use a piece of vacuum hose and a drill, again light pressure and it only takes a couple seconds. You can see how the lapping compound leaves a nice even line in the middle where it contacts the seat. Make sure to clean off all the compound when you're done. And spray the inside of the head out with some brake cleaner. Then remove the old valve stem seals and install new ones. I use a deep well socket and tap them into place. |
01-23-2020, 08:51 AM | #39 |
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9,690
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Re: FE290 engine rebuild
Next, use the valve spring compressor to reinstall the valves and keepers.
Reinstall the rocker arms and e clip. The washer goes to the left of the e clip from this angle. (Exhaust side) Now, use a new head gasket, reinstall the push rods and head back onto the motor. Torque to spec. While the piston is still TDC set the valve lash. Spec is .0047 but lets be honest, nobody has a feeler gauge that size. I use .005 :) |
01-23-2020, 08:56 AM | #40 |
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Join Date: Apr 2018
Location: Michigan
Posts: 9,690
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Re: FE290 engine rebuild
Next, install the flywheel. Make sure you didnt lose the keyway :)
Then the ignition coil goes back in. You can use feeler gauges, or a business card usually works well. I used a business card here and double checked with feeler gauges, it was right on. Then reinstall all of the fan and cooking shrouds. Make sure to clean any leftover sludge out of the cooking fins on the motor first! |
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