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Old 06-07-2021, 09:06 AM   #11
Fairtax4me
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Default Re: Belt suddenly too tight.

The belt is holding the sheaves apart. When you roll the clutch, the belt rolls across the sheaves and works its way back up/out and they close the rest of the way. That is 100% normal.

Also normal is the space between the buttons with the heavy duty spring in there. The original spring had tabs on the ends that are used to pre-load the spring so the buttons stay against the ramps of the helix. The heavy duty springs do not have those tabs, and merely rely on the strength of the spring for proper preloading. Without the tabs the sheave can rotate roughly leaving the gaps between the ramp and the buttons. It's not ideal, because over time it does cause extra wear to those parts of the clutch, but it's not going to greatly affect operation until you get several hundred hours of use out of it.

Opening the sheaves on the bench, if you push hard enough. If the ramps are touching, then you also need to rotate the sheave at the same time. It can/will open, but not easily. Most builders use a special pressing tool to compress the spring during assembly because doing it by hand is almost impossible.

Can you post a picture of the DRIVE clutch? Is the belt tight between the sheaves of the drive clutch? There should be some room on at least one side of the belt.
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Old 06-07-2021, 09:22 PM   #12
aghead
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Default Re: Belt suddenly too tight.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Fairtax4me View Post
The belt is holding the sheaves apart. When you roll the clutch, the belt rolls across the sheaves and works its way back up/out and they close the rest of the way. That is 100% normal.

Also normal is the space between the buttons with the heavy duty spring in there. The original spring had tabs on the ends that are used to pre-load the spring so the buttons stay against the ramps of the helix. The heavy duty springs do not have those tabs, and merely rely on the strength of the spring for proper preloading. Without the tabs the sheave can rotate roughly leaving the gaps between the ramp and the buttons. It's not ideal, because over time it does cause extra wear to those parts of the clutch, but it's not going to greatly affect operation until you get several hundred hours of use out of it.

Opening the sheaves on the bench, if you push hard enough. If the ramps are touching, then you also need to rotate the sheave at the same time. It can/will open, but not easily. Most builders use a special pressing tool to compress the spring during assembly because doing it by hand is almost impossible.

Can you post a picture of the DRIVE clutch? Is the belt tight between the sheaves of the drive clutch? There should be some room on at least one side of the belt.
Went to my shop today to look for any issues I may be overlooking.
You're right, pulling up on the belt does give slack to the belt and the sheaves remain apart...because the belt is holding them open where it spread them at the bottom.

I can turn the drive clutch easily except for compression resistance.
The belt is slack a bit in it. Sides of belt are not touching those sheaves.

So I start it, it starts fine. Rev it up both F/R clutches operate fine, as usual. Stop the motor, restart, fine. I started it a few times, no lug or or slip of starter, no motor jerk.
It seems fine.
It will start and I can hold it at an idle (low RPM's) while the belt is not engaging...just a little more gas...engages fine/smoothly.

IDK if when I put a bit of WD40 on rear clutch shaft just finally soaked in and helped?

I forgot to get the belt part #.

I hope it stays fixed !
Nothing worse than an intermittent prob.

I'm open to any more input.

Thanks all yall so much!
ag
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