Does this wiring look correct?

[shadowman]

bad crank? lack of oil or just abusing the engine.....several things will hurt it.....as for the ignitor yes 2pg.......i,m not filmilar at all with the 1pg but it sounds like your in good hands with dave so i,ll just keep reading........................

[madoc1]

before you buy any parts, i would pull the flywheel and see what's under there, either points or pulsar. you will need two 3-4" i think 6mm bolts and a steering wheel type puller.

[Scottn29]

It is points in there. I have the fan shroud removed already and so is the dust guard down there and you can clearly see this piece which is the points.




I also have this puller I am gonna try, I think it should work. Can be 2 or 3 jaw.

[Dave Box]

Looking more into it, if it was a 2pg, it would have a internal pulsar coil, correct?

No, the 2PG was introduced in 1976 with points and I think that is what you have. In 1980 the engine was modified to be electronic and that is when the pulsar was fitted. I am sure you have the early 2PG with points but the best thing is to do what Madoc suggests and pull the flywheel, which I think you have to do to change the points. A steering wheel puller will do it however it will be rusted on. Spray it liberally with PB Blaster and use the puller to get some tension. If it doesn't want to come off you can try shocking it by hitting the puller bolt with a mallet. Then more blaster and so on. It will come off. (Probably after 3 days of blood, sweat and tears).

You really don't know where you are until you make that compression test. If the cylinder is burnt up the newest points won't make a scrap of difference. If you have compression then I would make it run, just for fun. If it runs well then you might want to leave it alone. My advice is really based upon not steering you down the road of expensive repairs only to find that at the end of the road there is a part that you cannot source.

Shadowman has given you the answer to your crankshaft question. With that in mind if you have the engine out and the flywheel off it would be madness not to change the crankshaft oil seals. You might want to research the availability of 1976 seals. The crankshaft changed in 1980 and that is the earliest year I have seen them available although I never specifically looked.
Dave

[Dave Box]

Once again our posts cross in the ether. Ignore what I said about checking for points. That is not the right puller. You need a steering wheel puller as there is no room to get those hooked arms in (at least not on a post 1980 engine, perhaps yours is different but you will be able to see that).
Dave

[Scottn29]

Ok, so I need to buy a puller form Autozone then, looks like 15 bucks for that. I also need a compression test. But cant I only check that if the engine will turn over? Is there a special one I need? or can I just buy a cheap one?

Then I am still left with the question about the stuff in my exhaust port. How do I clean that out, what is that from, and if its there, dont you think I would have some of that in the head also?


I am willing to spend about 100 bucks to try to get it running for now. So that could be points, condensor, new plug and new plug cord. Then the puller and compression test.

I did a Ohm reading on my coil and it reads right around 5 ohm, so I assume it is ok for now.

[madoc1]

you just need a cheap comp. tester. as long as you have it out i would raise the piston so there is no opening visible and the carefully chip out what carbon you can see. the carbon in the head might help with compression.. then check the compression. as dave said no use buying parts till you know what comp. you have. if you have decent compression. pull it again and do the points, etc. and the recommended crank seals. good luck.

[Dave Box]

I would still urge some caution, although I understand your enthusiasm. What if the starter is shot, that cannot be replaced or probably repaired. Similarly if the big end is rust welded to the crankshaft that too cannot be replaced. Now you have a puller and a compression tester that you no longer need.

I respectfully suggest that you get a battery on it and at least get the engine turning. If that works you can now buy (a real cheap) compression tester. If that shows a sensible compression you are now in a safer position to invest further.

I would try then to get it running as it is. The little 2PG is a remarkably robust machine so it might just fire right up. All that gunk in the exhaust port will slow things down as will a muffler full of crap and in the fullness of time you will want to bbq it, but that is for later.

Actually having re-read that it all sounds a little preachy and I didn't mean it to sound that way, as always I should preface this with "this is what I would do" but you should do your thing.

Now if you will excuse me, Sandra Bullock is knocking at the back door. She has a six pack in one hand and pizza in the other so I might let her in. Of course I will have to listen to her whining on about "Jesse done me wrong" but pizza is pizza.

Dave

[Scottn29]

Thanks for the direction guys. So I have a game plan for now. I will go buy the puller and compression tester today after work.

I will just have to look up how to do the compression test.

[Scottn29]

I will do what you suggest Dave, my last post was made when you were typing yours. I will just throw it back together and see what happens.