97 txt replaced motor but still wont go

[JohnnieB]

What is the Model number of the D&D motor that you installed?????

[georgia088]

Originally Posted by cowsgonemadd3

Take 2, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QGAWQXc-_z4

I’m guessing here with this dcs cart; jb will be able to tell you more.

Give a reading between b- and m- when the pedal is barely pressed (should be close to pack voltage). Then press it to the floor and see if it drops to close to 0v

Edit:
Probably disregard this. Answer jb.

[cowsgonemadd3]

I called d and d sales and he told me to buy this model number: 170-501-0001.

https://evdrives.com/d-d-170-501-000...ex-high-speed/

[camaroluvz28]

Hmm I would wait for Johnnieb to chime in but just based on the link you just gave says that motor works with an Alltrax upgraded 400 amp controller and at 48 volts where as your appears to be a 36v...just a quick observation

[cowsgonemadd3]

That site does but this site says it's either. https://www.golfcartking.com/ezgo-dc...0-more-torque/

[camaroluvz28]

Ah 10-4

[cowsgonemadd3]

Is it possible the controller is bad? It does not look bad or weathered in the slightest. The previous owner replaced the solenoid right before I got it. He also replaced all the batteries. They seem to be staying at around 37.7v off the last 2 leads off the pack. I tried stress testing them yesterday by lightly holding the pedal down and reading the voltage.

I had just charged the batteries for an hour so the voltage did drop but it was elevated from the charging. Then I noticed after trying that for a while the cart decided to no longer "pull" any voltage. The solenoid engaged but no hissing or humming sound was coming from the controller as if it had shut down.

There are only so many parts to a golf cart. The motor and batteries are new along with a new solenoid, all that is left is the controller right? He could have bought the wrong solenoid or it could be bad but I will wait for input here based on what we have tried in that area. I will try and get the model number of the solenoid to make sure it's not an under powered thing.

[camaroluvz28]

Though I was thinking controller...No there are many more parts to a golf cart you can't see...for instance the ITS(Throttle Sensor) could be bad under you pedal box not allowing the controller to see the pedal is being pressed and prevent the cart from moving...a bad wire in the harness could cause solenoid to click but not get power out of controller...To state a few..If it were a Yamaha I could walk you through the test procedures but unfortunately I dont deal with PDS/DCS carts on a daily basis

[JohnnieB]

The DCS drive system had a strong motor and a poorly designed controller (EZGO's first attempt at a sepex drive), so I suspect the controller was in poor health when you got the cart. Maybe it was the original problem instead of the motor, but that is past history. The motor you have is a decent one, but it does need more the a stock DCS controller and a 36V battery pack to perform anywhere near its full potential. However, it should run with a DCS controller and a 36V battery pack.

You said the battery cables were replaced when the batteries were replaced. Were all 10 of the heavy cables replaced or just the 5 connecting the batteries together and maybe the 2 long one to solenoid and controller B-?

All 10 high current cables need to be 4Ga or thicker.

To check controller:
Measure voltage between the controller's B- and M- terminal when pedal is pushed just far enough to make solenoid click. You should get full battery pack voltage (38.2 when fully charged).

If you don't get pack voltage when the solenoid clicks, there is an open someplace in the high current cables, connections or contacts. (or motor armature/brushes)

Slowly, press pedal to floor and the voltage ought to smoothly decrease to 0V.

If it doesn't check the throttle input voltages. The attached page from the service manual tells you how and gives the voltages.

If controller is bad, replace it with an Alltrax XCT48400-DCS (or larger) and a suitable solenoid.

Also, since the batteries are new, you can add one more for a 42V pack or two for a 48V pack and get far better performance.

[cowsgonemadd3]

Any controllers out there not $600? Counting my motor, I currently have $1850 in this non moving 97 cart. I am unsure how high I should go before cutting my losses. These carts sell "running" for around $2400-$2600 around my part of the world.

I am worried if my controller is bad, buying one might not make sense for such an old cart. My wife says "it's just a shell" and once the parts are all new we should be good for years but is an old cart outdated compared to new ones?

I will check all the things you mentioned today when I get home and report back this evening. Hoping for a cheap part to be the issue.

The battery cables from each other was replaced, the 4 cables off the controller to the motor are stock. They are very thick wire, like the diameter of a standard permanent ink marker.