TXT key switch panel removal

[Duck_NovaCain]

First, thanks to everyone that helped me get my golf cart running. When I installed new batteries and cables, I found my head/taillights were hooked up to two batteries to get the required 12v. I was wanting to add a 12v converter, which I already have, and then wire the lights up through it the correct way. I want to wire the converter to the key switch, and herein lies my problem.

I watched a video on the EZGo YouTube page and saw in order to remove the key switch panel you stick a small screwdriver through the center of the two rivets to release them. I am unfamiliar with this method, as every rivet I have ever encountered I drilled out, but nonetheless I tried it this way. In the video, after he punches out the second rivet he snatches back with the screwdriver and the plate releases from the bottom. No matter how many times I tried this I could not get that plate to release. I’ve read how to remove the four inline cup holders in order to quiet the buzzer, but I cannot reach the key switch effectively from there. Any ideas?


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[Spartan Mark]

You need to be sure the center of each rivet is pushed all the way through and out the back of the rivet. The peg will drop into the tray below the cupholder. You will need to remove the cupholder to retrieve the rivet centers. The switch plate has two tabs on top, so by inserting a flat screwdriver at the base of the plate and gently prying outward, it should pivot forward. You may have to give it a tug or two...when I put my new plate in, it was a tight fit and I had to gently, yet forcefully hold it in place while I reinstalled the rivets.

The cupholder will come out fairly easy but it may require a little extra effort. There are three tabs on the top-front of the holder that keep it flush to the dash. You have to push down and pull out at the same time on each of the three tabs. Once they're free from the dash, you pull the cupholder towards you (assuming you're sitting in the seat) and up at the front so it rotates out of the opening.

Once you have the cupholder removed you should be able to retrieve the center posts of the rivets. Put these back into the rivets at the top, but just enough so they don't come out and not too far so as to hold the back of the rivet open. Squeeze the bottom of the rivet to close it, and when you're ready, reinsert it into the plate hole. Then gently push the center of the rivet flush with the top, and it should hold the plate in place.

[mcw999]

Thanks much for your post. I just acquired a used EZ GO TXT, and have found this forum really useful in building my knowledge base. I have been trying to access the buzzer to moderate it's sound. Your post on removing the cupholder was the key for me to get at the buzzer, and apply some sound abatement. I can still hear the buzzer but at a much more tolerable volume.

[Spartan Mark]

[kgsc]

I have a pretty big forearm and I can just put my hand through the keyswitch hole and reach in to grab the pins. Be warned though, there is no telling what else might be in there.

[yurtle]

Originally Posted by kgsc

I have a pretty big forearm and I can just put my hand through the keyswitch hole and reach in to grab the pins. Be warned though, there is no telling what else might be in there.

Is there a story behind the "warning"?

[kgsc]

One of my cart dealer buddies had a fleet come in to be rebuilt and they found black widow spiders all through the carts. Just saying

[Buggieman18]

The push-pin rivets are, IMHO, an unnecessary engineering stupidity that forced me to wreck a SOC meter trying to get it out before I figured out that I had to push the damned pins thru the rivet to get the plate off, then fish the pins out of the dash. The plate tabs are on the top. Throw the pins away, push the rivet in and it generally holds. Or replace the pin with a small machine screw painted black, which I haven't done yet.