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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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10-24-2011, 01:06 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 3
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reed switch replacement
I am replacing the reed switch on my cart, how do I install the encapsulated replacement switch? How does it fit within the connector housing? Also, are the conversions kits that eliminate the reed switch are they a viable alternative? Thanks
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10-24-2011, 01:30 PM | #2 |
no clue
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: spicewood, texas
Posts: 3,308
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Re: reed switch replacement
welcome to BGW m180. you don't need "need" the reed switch. it was a safety feature to keep dummies from driving off with charger attatched. same thing can be obtained by running the cord thru the steering wheel. later models do not even have one. you don't need a kit. just trace the wire from the micro switch to the carge port, cut it there and attatch the wire to the first pos. terminal in the pack.
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10-24-2011, 10:48 PM | #3 |
Getting Wild
Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Baton Rouge, La
Posts: 89
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Re: reed switch replacement
Like madoc1 said, its easy to bypass, but is a safety device the factory thought was important enough to spend the money on. If you check the cost replacing the Charge receptacle, cord end or a run over charger it makes sense.
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10-25-2011, 01:32 AM | #4 |
Happy Carting
Join Date: Dec 2007
Location: Southern California
Posts: 73,417
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Re: reed switch replacement
A couple of years later Ezgo eliminated the reed switch.... if you run the charge cord thru the steering wheel and then plug it into the cart you won't drive off with it plugged in...... your call & the $40 reed switch is available and cheap insurance if you want to look at it that way.
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10-25-2011, 05:42 AM | #5 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 3
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Re: reed switch replacement
Thanks madoc1. I did the bypass, selonoid clicks (as expected) but cart does not move, instead, the pos (bl+) wire arc's at the battery, after i press the accellerator all the way. If I back off just a bit it quits, I think I have a short some where. :/. could it be in the speed sensor? the white and black leads on this sensor are normally open until energized (i think) however, when energized I still have no continuity between these 2 leads.
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10-25-2011, 08:21 AM | #6 | |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Aug 2011
Location: Bunnell, Florida
Posts: 2,408
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Re: reed switch replacement
Quote:
Also check the terminal connection to the wire itself while you are cleaning them. Anything that is blackened or the insulation is blistered had a bad connection! :) |
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10-25-2011, 09:55 AM | #7 | |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: reed switch replacement
Quote:
If it has a speed sensor, I'm pretty sure it is a PDS, so here's a pretty good overview of the PDS system. If you look at last page (9 of 9 - but marked Pg 17) you'll see the black wire is B- and the White wire is the output, which is a pulse train. I'm not sure exactly what is used to detect, amplify and shape the pulses generated when one of the rotating set of eight magnets passes by the sensing point, but I don't believe there would be much , if any, continuity between either the Black (or Red) wire and the White wire. A defective speed sensor will limit the cart's speed to about 3mph, but won't cause arc's. Simple man is right, if you're getting an arc at any of the battery cables, you've got a bad connection. Clean and tighten, or replace. Max Torque for battery terminals is 95-105 Lb/In (about 8 to 9 Lb/Ft) so easy does it. FWIW: I use a nut-driver or a 1/4" drive socket on a screwdriver type handle. |
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10-26-2011, 05:11 AM | #8 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 3
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Re: reed switch replacement
Guys, thanks. It was the connection. I replaced all the battery cables and installed new batteries before the Arc (except one). Turns out when I clipped the wire that was arcing, I had to replace it,corrosion had wicked its way six inches back inside the insulation. I appreciate the assist. I was over thinking the problem
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