Key Switch Issue

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by AFVET

Due to the pack balance concern - do you recommend an alternate solution to power 12V accessories?

First, if that last post you did was not a typo, read my reply and make sure the converter ring terminal is on the pack negative battery post (bat #6).

The best method is to use a 48v->12v converter, 20 amps or more, where it uses all batteries equally.

The best converters have a low current "trigger wire" that you power from the key switch so all accessories go OFF when you turn the key OFF.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by Sergio

David, the 48v brake relay is the problem.

When the key switch is OFF, the negative power at the dash harness (Orange wire now at +34v) will travel either thru the 48v brake relay coil or the flyback diode back to the blue/white wire which is the +48v switched power from key switch.

That is the only area in the bucket/light harness I see that Club Car used a common negative for both the +48v and +12v side.

Sergio, you have to use a 48 volt relay or it won't work correctly. I recently had to re-wire several Precedents that the local EZGO dealer put lights on. They hooked the lights up to the wrong batteries and installed 12 volt relays behind the dash. The car would run with the key off and the relays burnt up. Once I put the negative for the 16-12V reducer on battery #6 negative and the blue positive wire on the bucket harness on battery #5 positive (or #4 negative) the keyswitch begins to work again. Swap the 12V relay for a 48V relay and the brake light circuit works like it's supposed to. All Club Car OEM light kits come with 48 volt brake relays regardless of reducer options.

[Sergio]

I think we were talking about different things...

I agree with the right way of doing it , my comment was referring to why using any 2 batteries other than #5 and #6 would cause the problem.

The brake relay is definitely a switch activated 48v coil, but it uses the same negative as the 12v so it needs to reference pack negative.

[Sergio]

I just want to add one last thought, those 16v->12v DC reducers are not a good idea anyway, but specific on the Precedent, they should not be mounted on the battery tray.

The harness negative wire should be connected directly to pack negative.

The 16v->12v reducer should be mounted up front and wired in line with the black wire on the 12-pin connector.

The reason for that is that the harness negative wire splits into 2 wires right before the 12-pin conenctor.

The black wire is the negative for the 12v side.

The orange wire is the negative for the 48v side (also the brake relay).

Installing the 16v->12v reducer on the battery tray will cause a 4v drop on the brake relay coil as the negative would have to go through the reducer.

That is not a problem for the relay as it has a 36v pickup voltage, but it could be a future issue depending on what gets added.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

[AFVET]

Brake lights not working, expected this one my GTW light kit incorporated a control box with a 12V brake relay. I think the relay should be 48V. Now how to fix? Don't think I can replace the control box. I attached a photo of the brake light kit. Need a way to just fix the brake lights....

[Sergio]

Is everything else working (turn signal, hazard lights) except for the brake lights?

If so you need to complete the 12v signal down to the brake pedal harness.

Follow the instructions in this post:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1248540

[AFVET]

Yes everything else works okay, and accessories work with key off with the 16V-12V reducer. Next time I'll use a 48V reducer. All lights are LED.
Thanks .... Going to install the 12V jumper in the morning.

[AFVET]

Had to go out of town - back now working on the brake lights - when I read the referenced post it says:
If Your DC converter is only providing power when the Key Switch is ON, that relay is redundant.

The relay is connected to the 4 quick connectors near the 9-pin Turn signal connector in the dash harness.

You can either add a Relay, or just jump the 2 wires marked as 12v+, Green/White and Solid Blue together.
My lights are powered with to key sw off - via 16V-12V reducer.
Should I still try and jump the relay?
I checked to Brake pad continuity - Good
Running lights & Turn signals are Good
I'm testing with Key-ON and Tow Sw in RUN
Thanks

[Kashmir]

I'm just going to throw this out there....
After reading three pages on this thread in one sitting, my brain hurts!

That is some bad a## diagnosing!!!
Kudos to Dawg and Sergio...I think I would have burnt the thing to the ground and given up on golf carts!