2014 48V. Club Cart Moves 8 Feet, Then stops.. Help Please..

[Ant-Knee]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

"VR" is a Villager 2 LSV, which, to my knowledge is nothing more than a fancy DS IQ with a 350 amp controller and a more powerful motor. I haven't seen an LSV since they did the tax credit thing in 2009 but I don't think they've changed much. The solenoid should be located on the driver's side of the cart right next to the on-board computer. Make sure it's clicking. If it's not, it may be bad.

Ok, Ill check it out tomorrow and report back..

Thanks,

Ant...

[Ant-Knee]

I am sorry for the delay, Due to the Holidays...

I am back at the cart and it is doing the same thing... The solinoid does click when pedal is pushed... Please let me know what to check for... Not sure what the pre resister is, Please verify this...


Thank you,

Ant...

[lordj37]

Originally Posted by Ant-Knee

I am sorry for the delay, Due to the Holidays...

I am back at the cart and it is doing the same thing... The solinoid does click when pedal is pushed... Please let me know what to check for... Not sure what the pre resister is, Please verify this...


Thank you,

Ant...

Did you get this figured out? I have a 2006 CC Precedent that is acting similar to what you’re describing.

[meimk]

Originally Posted by Ant-Knee

I am sorry for the delay, Due to the Holidays...

I am back at the cart and it is doing the same thing... The solinoid does click when pedal is pushed... Please let me know what to check for... Not sure what the pre resister is, Please verify this...


Thank you,

Ant...

The pre-charge runs between the two big terminals on the solenoid. It helps the controller live longer, but by itself should not stop the cart from driving. Check the voltage on the output (controller side) big solenoid post when the key is on and pedal pushed. Should be the same as pack +.

[lordj37]

Originally Posted by meimk

The pre-charge runs between the two big terminals on the solenoid. It helps the controller live longer, but by itself should not stop the cart from driving. Check the voltage on the output (controller side) big solenoid post when the key is on and pedal pushed. Should be the same as pack +.

I replaced the new solenoid that I had installed with another one that I know works and it’s doing the same thing. Within seconds, the volts drop to around 48.5, the solenoid clicks off and volts return back to 50.9. Push the pedal and same thing happens. I’ve checked wires but cannot locate anything that’s loose or corroded. Thoughts or ideas???

[cascader]

Originally Posted by lordj37

I replaced the new solenoid that I had installed with another one that I know works and it’s doing the same thing. Within seconds, the volts drop to around 48.5, the solenoid clicks off and volts return back to 50.9. Push the pedal and same thing happens. I’ve checked wires but cannot locate anything that’s loose or corroded. Thoughts or ideas???

If this isn’t already solved, one idea would be to isolate where the voltage drop is occurring within the pack, or the cabling. You can measure the relative drop across each battery and each connection and determine if there is an unequal contribution. If so, that is likely your culprit. Perhaps there is a weak cell, or poor internal connection within a battery. You can leave one lead of the meter on the pack negative, and move up through the batteries, and see if the voltage contributions are all the same as you go, both with and without load.

[lordj37]

Originally Posted by cascader

If this isn’t already solved, one idea would be to isolate where the voltage drop is occurring within the pack, or the cabling. You can measure the relative drop across each battery and each connection and determine if there is an unequal contribution. If so, that is likely your culprit. Perhaps there is a weak cell, or poor internal connection within a battery. You can leave one lead of the meter on the pack negative, and move up through the batteries, and see if the voltage contributions are all the same as you go, both with and without load.

Thanks! I’ll give that a shot but also came across another possible issue. I bypassed the OBC and cart charges as it should. Still dropping power seconds after pedal is pushed though. Been troubleshooting the motor which, based on a continuity test procedure received from Dave Hicks, it failed. I have an email in to him but thought I’d throw something on here in the meantime since it’s the weekend.

Motor failed the wheel spin test for continuity in one direction. Placed one wheel on the ground and spun the other while off the ground. Continuity at F posts passed in both directions. Same test at the A posts failed while spinning wheel in reverse but passed spinning it forward. Prior to that I test motor function by connecting a 12v to it and it ran continuously in REVERSE. Seems odd to me that it would run in reverse but failed the continuity test spinning one of the wheels in reverse. Oh and I installed new brushes.

Thoughts?? Could an issue with my motor cause the fallout in power and solenoid opening taking power away seconds after pedal is pushed?

Thanks!

[cascader]

I am not experienced in these particular motors, but based on your description, I’d be looking at the condition of the commutator, and the brush springs / holders to make sure that everything there was making proper contact and nothing was worn or sticky.

[lordj37]

Update….. Finally got this thing going. Motor had some continuity and grounding issues. Between fixing that and/or installing a rebuilt controller, I'm up and running. Note to others….don’t count out a motor issue. Dave Hicks was awesome in helping with this!!