Voltage Reducer

[Sergio]

If You are running any reducer OFF the key switch, it should be a model with a "trigger" wire, or you should use a relay to interrupt the 12v side, otherwise you will eventually damage the key Switch.

The low end units may be a "linear converter", which means they will use as much current OFF the 48v side as they will on the 12v side.

Most converters also have large filter capacitors that should not be constant powered ON/OFF or they can blow up.

A "long term storage" switch on the 48v side is a good idea for "long term storage" use only.

[Golferdave]

Originally Posted by Sergio

If You are running any reducer OFF the key switch, it should be a model with a "trigger" wire, or you should use a relay to interrupt the 12v side, otherwise you will eventually damage the key Switch.

The low end units may be a "linear converter", which means they will use as much current OFF the 48v side as they will on the 12v side.

Most converters also have large filter capacitors that should not be constant powered ON/OFF or they can blow up.

A "long term storage" switch on the 48v side is a good idea for "long term storage" use only.

Good points,
Have after market key sw,
but yea
would be better to use a interposing relay
I try to not have the light Sw on when key going on or off to reduce the arcing

Yea It is a cheap, lower end, 10 amp in & out.

If i was going to use the lights , for lights, I'd need a better one, & have bigger, better lights . Used lights maybe 5 time in a 4 month period.

Though sometime the higher priced ones are same thing under other names. This one is MIC, under several brand names & varying prices.

Will post when/if it dies,
Risk/reward passed for my use, (lights for local "sunset rule" )
+ I'm deep in the "learning curve" for Elect Carts & $$ budgeted