MCOR Repair and troubleshooting questions

[Scott.adams]

I have the MCOR top off. I jumped this MCOR before starting this expedition with a paperclip into the green and blue wires. Ride the cart a short distance with limited throttle on the jumper. Worked fine so I feel it's the switch in the MCOR. The POT clicks fine after the top removal. So I made it past that. Also opening the MCOR could not be done in the one I have with a screwdriver. Cut it open with an air saw. Had a plastic grid over all of the guts.

Attached is the photo of my MCOR. It's a CC 2002 DS IQ. I'm led to believe it's an MCOR 2.

Now that I have the MCOR open...

1-should I drill the solders or heat them with an solder iron that is holding the board in? Risk of solder running in to something else when melted?
2-I have seen the sticky on this project, what's the best place to get the switch if I get the board out?
3-Is there a Jesus spring that's going to fly out when I get past the solder? Jesus spring is one that is impossible to find when it flys off and impossible to put back if you find it...
4-If I have a MCOR 2, is there actual OEM parts available or do sellers just have inflated prices on aftermarket parts?
5-Does anyone have a used one I can buy?

[TahoeDawgZ71]

I can't help you with the surgery, but I can confirm that this is not an MCOR2. The MCOR2 was only found on the Precedent. This is an MCOR1, which is no longer available through Club Car. The only MCOR1 in production today is the Chinese one, and it's trash. The MCOR4 conversion kit, number AM293101 is what you would use to replace the MCOR1.

[Sergio]

You will need some solder wick or a vacuum desoldering pump to separate the board from the connectors.

This is the $15 switch you need: MCOR micro switch.

[Scott.adams]

A 200$ cart that came with a trickle charger is turning me into an engineer. I have fixed the powerdrive charger by swapping the push button switch with a fuse and new diode. Now this MCOR experiment. Thanks for the info so far. Hope there are some more DIY engineer to respond.

[Scott.adams]

Got the board off by melting the solders and took the switch off held on by 2 screws. Does anyone know which contacts to put ur voltmeter on to see if the switch is bad? When I put the meter on opposite ends and press the switch I get a reading. I'm leaning to this not even being a bad switch but a case of gummed up dirt and grease leaked in around the pot arm.

[Scott.adams]

Here is a pic of the switch removed from the board. The four corners have a no1 no2 no3 and no4. 1 and 4 on left side 2 and 3 on left side. How can u test with a meter ? Left side is the 1 and 4 above the 11-304 on the label.

[Sergio]

Look really close at the switch again, on each side one of the terminals is marked NC and the other one NO.

In the rest position there should be continuity between the NC terminals, when the switch is pressed the NO terminals will have continuity.

The issue is that it is in fact two separate switches in series, so it is possible that one side breaks while the other side continues to operate.

That creates a frustrating scenario that when the broken side is touching the NO terminal, the entire switch will turn ON/OFF normally since the good side is working.

When the broken side stays on the NC terminal, the switch never works.

Since You already experienced the problem with your cart and have the whole thing apart, order the switch from the link I gave You and fix the problem for under $20.

[Scott.adams]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Look really close at the switch again, on each side one of the terminals is marked NC and the other one NO.

In the rest position there should be continuity between the NC terminals, when the switch is pressed the NO terminals will have continuity.

The issue is that it is in fact two separate switches in series, so it is possible that one side breaks while the other side continues to operate.

That creates a frustrating scenario that when the broken side is touching the NO terminal, the entire switch will turn ON/OFF normally since the good side is working.

When the broken side stays on the NC terminal, the switch never works.

Since You already experienced the problem with your cart and have the whole thing apart, order the switch from the link I gave You and fix the problem for under $20.

I'm definitely ordering the switch just trying to get my engineering degree along the way

[Scott.adams]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Look really close at the switch again, on each side one of the terminals is marked NC and the other one NO.

In the rest position there should be continuity between the NC terminals, when the switch is pressed the NO terminals will have continuity.

The issue is that it is in fact two separate switches in series, so it is possible that one side breaks while the other side continues to operate.

That creates a frustrating scenario that when the broken side is touching the NO terminal, the entire switch will turn ON/OFF normally since the good side is working.

When the broken side stays on the NC terminal, the switch never works.

Since You already experienced the problem with your cart and have the whole thing apart, order the switch from the link I gave You and fix the problem for under $20.

I get 0.2 ohms at rest on the nc and 0.2 on the no when switch pressed and held

[Scott.adams]

@sergio @TahoeDawgZ71 Thanks for your advice. I will update as I walk it through