PDS R/T Switch PIN 1 burnt

[rockfordpi]

PDS R/T Switch Connector has pin 1 burned both on controller side and inside plug. Not sure if I can make those pins make up or not.

BOTH pins 1 AND 3 provide + voltage to two separate switches which work in tandem and appear to feed logic input to pins 2 and 4.

Here is my question (please excuse if it is a dumb one). Can, and what would happen if, I connected the pin 1 wire to the pin 3 wire? Basically would be using pin 3 to provide + voltage to both switches.

Of course the bigger question would be WHY pin 1 burned? Whomever worked on this cart before me installed a 12v solenoid on it, does not seem like that would have impacted the R/T switch, but also no telling what else they did...

[JohnnieB]

Here's a drawing showing the voltage paths for the Logic voltage and the Auxiliary voltage.

J3 Pin-1 is live 100% of the time and it (along withe the pre-charge resistor on the solenoid's large studs) keep the filter capacitors inside the controller charged. For safety reasons, the capacitors have bleeder networks so the capacitors don't hold a charge very long after the battery has been disconnected. Net result is J3 Pin-1 has current flowing through it all the time, so the least amount of corrosion or looseness will heat up the connection.

Hopefully the 12V solenoid has been replaced with a 36V one, else J3 Pin-3 is destined for the same fate, along with some other Plug/Jack interfaces.

Personally, I run a 16Ga (or so) wire from the solenoid's battery side stud to the R/T switch terminals that are now connected to J3 Pins 1 & 3.

[rockfordpi]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Here's a drawing showing the voltage paths for the Logic voltage and the Auxiliary voltage.

J3 Pin-1 is live 100% of the time and it (along withe the pre-charge resistor on the solenoid's large studs) keep the filter capacitors inside the controller charged. For safety reasons, the capacitors have bleeder networks so the capacitors don't hold a charge very long after the battery has been disconnected. Net result is J3 Pin-1 has current flowing through it all the time, so the least amount of corrosion or looseness will heat up the connection.

Hopefully the 12V solenoid has been replaced with a 36V one, else J3 Pin-3 is destined for the same fate, along with some other Plug/Jack interfaces.

Personally, I run a 16Ga (or so) wire from the solenoid's battery side stud to the R/T switch terminals that are now connected to J3 Pins 1 & 3.

JB,

Yes, it has 36v solenoid now.

Thank you so much for the diagram and info. I will do what you said with 16ga wire. Am I correct, that will also eliminate the charger interlock? Not a big deal if so.

I greatly appreciate you taking the time, as you always do, to explain things in such a way to help me understand not just 'what' to do, but 'WHY' I am doing it.

[JohnnieB]

Yes, it also bypasses the reed switch. If driving away with charger plugged into cart is an issue, run cord through steering wheel as a reminder.

Explaining things is habitual, I used to teach troubleshooting.

[rockfordpi]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Yes, it also bypasses the reed switch. If driving away with charger plugged into cart is an issue, run cord through steering wheel as a reminder.

Explaining things is habitual, I used to teach troubleshooting.

Brought 48v direct to R/T switch as discussed, but cart does not run.

Now when I back-probe, I have no power on J4 Pin 2. HOWEVER, when I jumper from main positive to the red wire connected to J4 pin 2, CART RUNS (well, it moves, I have not road tested, just held the connection with my back-probe wire and bumped the pedal)

I do have power to J1 Pin 8. From the diagram, it looks like J1 Pin 8 directly feeds J4 pin 2.

Would there be any major safety or other issues if I jumpered from the yellow/white wire on J1 Pin 8 to the red wire connected to J4 pin 2?

Looks like that will work, but wanted to get a second opinion from an expert.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by rockfordpi

Brought 48v direct to R/T switch as discussed, but cart does not run.

Now when I back-probe, I have no power on J4 Pin 2. HOWEVER, when I jumper from main positive to the red wire connected to J4 pin 2, CART RUNS (well, it moves, I have not road tested, just held the connection with my back-probe wire and bumped the pedal)

I do have power to J1 Pin 8. From the diagram, it looks like J1 Pin 8 directly feeds J4 pin 2.

Would there be any major safety or other issues if I jumpered from the yellow/white wire on J1 Pin 8 to the red wire connected to J4 pin 2?

Looks like that will work, but wanted to get a second opinion from an expert.

Maybe not a safety issue, but definitely a legal one. By modifying the cart's original wiring, you become the cart's manufacturer and are liable for any subsequent damages caused by the cart.

A cart owner can do just about anything they want to without significantly increasing the amount of liability they already have, but modifying somebody else's cart makes you the manufacturer of that cart and absolves the OEM of much, if not most, of the inherent liability.

Bypassing the reed switch in an EZGO cart is probably an acceptable modification because EZGO bypassed the reed switch during the manufacturing process for a few years before they switched the charger receptacle to the 48V triangular one with an electronic form of the charger interlock, aka reed switch.

Installing and aftermarket controller, or motor or reversing contactor are also acceptable modifications since the changes in liability is assumed by the manufacture of those products.

In a nutshell, if it is your cart, you can rewire it if you so desire, but if it is somebody else's cart, it needs a new wiring harness and controller.

[rockfordpi]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Maybe not a safety issue, but definitely a legal one. By modifying the cart's original wiring, you become the cart's manufacturer and are liable for any subsequent damages caused by the cart.

A cart owner can do just about anything they want to without significantly increasing the amount of liability they already have, but modifying somebody else's cart makes you the manufacturer of that cart and absolves the OEM of much, if not most, of the inherent liability.

Bypassing the reed switch in an EZGO cart is probably an acceptable modification because EZGO bypassed the reed switch during the manufacturing process for a few years before they switched the charger receptacle to the 48V triangular one with an electronic form of the charger interlock, aka reed switch.

Installing and aftermarket controller, or motor or reversing contactor are also acceptable modifications since the changes in liability is assumed by the manufacture of those products.

In a nutshell, if it is your cart, you can rewire it if you so desire, but if it is somebody else's cart, it needs a new wiring harness and controller.

Technically I am simply advising a friend with his cart, and I advised him he needed a new controller. However, this one is not a paid job and HE would be the one actually making the change. Therefore, I am not really concerned about my legal liability, but at the same time if there is some danger risk to the cart or riders I would strongly advise him NOT to do it.

based on the diagram, looks like that is just a straight through wire from j1 pin 8 to J4 pin 2. I am hoping all he would be doing is making the same connection outside the controller as inside.

[JohnnieB]

Looks like your just feeding the voltage from the other end of the run on the PCB, so it ought to work the same.