24-48 to 12 Volt Converter

[Stevec3201]

Here are pics I promised I'm still not 100% complete, but I have working lights and an ACC/ cigar lighter working

As you can see, I mounted the converter under the rear seat. I installed 2 fuse boxes. One in the center divider (batt box), and one in the right side of the dash.

My cart already had the OEM lightkit installed, but ran off batt #4, now I'm running off all the batts (through the converter). I just did a test run, and the lights are very bright and don't dim anymore at full speed

If you have an existing light kit: Make sure you dissconnect the yellow wire that is attached inside the divider. Make sure you dissconnect the blue wire coming off batt #4.

From the fuse box in the dash, I ran the 12 volts to the blue/white wire from the harness (in the 9 pin connector) and the neg to the black wire in that same connector. It was easier for me to just cut those two wires from the 9 pin connector and hook it up that way. I also ran 12 volts to an ACC plug from that same fuse box. I have 4 more fusable connectors left in the dash.

My only problem was my meter. When I dissconnected the yellow wire in the divider, I lost my 48 volts that I was using for my old meter. I'll figure something out later....

[Stevec3201]

Originally Posted by Stevec3201

Here are pics I promised I'm still not 100% complete, but I have working lights and an ACC/ cigar lighter working

As you can see, I mounted the converter under the rear seat. I installed 2 fuse boxes. One in the center divider (batt box), and one in the right side of the dash.

My cart already had the OEM lightkit installed, but ran off batt #4, now I'm running off all the batts (through the converter). I just did a test run, and the lights are very bright and don't dim anymore at full speed

If you have an existing light kit: Make sure you dissconnect the yellow wire that is attached inside the divider. Make sure you dissconnect the blue wire coming off batt #4.

From the fuse box in the dash, I ran the 12 volts to the blue/white wire from the harness (in the 9 pin connector) and the neg to the black wire in that same connector. It was easier for me to just cut those two wire from the 9 pin connector and hook it up that way. I also ran 12 volts to an ACC plug from that same fuse box. I have 4 more fusable connectors left in the dash.

My only problem was my meter. When I dissconnected the yellow wire in the diveder, I lost my 48 volts that I was using for my old meter. I'll figure something out later....

Here are the rest of the pics:

[ZackMan]

Stevec3201,

That's a sweeeeet install. It's obvious to me that you took some time and really thought out where and how to best place all of the various electrical components. When I get ready to move in that direction, I will definitely solicit your expertise.

ZackMan

[erict]

Looks great But.....why didn't you use an eyelet connector for the ground wire on you fuse blocks?

What was the yellow wire for?

[Stevec3201]

Originally Posted by erict

Looks great But.....why didn't you use an eyelet connector for the ground wire on you fuse blocks?

What was the yellow wire for?

I didn't have one

That yellow wire is part of the oem harness (divider) that provides ground to the harness in the dash. The ground comes from the neg on the controller and if I didn't dissconnect it, I would have lots of sparks, as I already have ground from the converter. Trust me, I learned the hard way. Luckely, it only blew a fuse For a few minutes, I thought I fried the OBC

I just wish I had the original 48 volts in my dash to connect the volt meter. That 48 volts had something to do with that yellow wire, must have been the neg 48 volts??? I'll probably have to run wires from the battery pack to the dash for the meter. That's is gonna be a P-I-T-A, again

[erict]

Originally Posted by Stevec3201

I didn't have one

That yellow wire is part of the oem harness (divider) that provides ground to the harness in the dash. The ground comes from the neg on the controller and if I didn't dissconnect it, I would have lots of sparks, as I already have ground from the converter. Trust me, I learned the hard way. Luckely, it only blew a fuse For a few minutes, I thought I fried the OBC

I just wish I had the original 48 volts in my dash to connect the volt meter. That 48 volts had something to do with that yellow wire, must have been the neg 48 volts??? I'll probably have to run wires from the battery pack to the dash for the meter. That's is gonna be a P-I-T-A, again

I never knew there was 48v in the dash to begin with I had the idea that I would have to run a neg and pos from the pack when I connect my meter. So I guess I don't, confused

Are you talking about this yellow connector not wire?

IMG_0078.jpg

[Stevec3201]

Originally Posted by erict

I never knew there was 48v in the dash to begin with I had the idea that I would have to run a neg and pos from the pack when I connect my meter. So I guess I don't, confused

Are you talking about this yellow connector not wire?

Attachment 56175

Yes, my bad yellow connector.

Yeah, there is battery pack voltage for a factory meter. That's how I connected my digiital meter. But now, I lost those volts when I dissconnected the yellow connector (in divider).

[erict]

Originally Posted by Stevec3201

Yes, my bad yellow connector.

Yeah, there is battery pack voltage for a factory meter. That's how I connected my digiital meter. But now, I lost those volts when I dissconnected the yellow connector (in divider).

Which color wires are they in the dash. This would make connecting my meter a whole lot easier.

[Stevec3201]

There was an unused 9 pin connecter. I used the blue/white and black wires.

I'll keep you updated as I continue to experiment.

Now those dash wires had 12 volts from batt #4 via the blue wire from the battery. When I hooked the blue wire to my converter, it showed 48 volts there (in dash). Mind boggling stuff! That's why I just ran 12 volts to the dash from the converter.

[Stevec3201]

Concerning voltage for dash mounted meter: I did some testing yesterday and this is what I found: Those 2 oem wires for the dash mounted meter normally supply 48 volts for a meter. However when I installed my converter, the voltage would read ~48 volts when the converter is off. When it's on, I would get ~12 volts. To make sure there was no grounding or crossed wires, I dissconnected the converter and re-tested, volts were at 0.

My conclusion: When the converter is powered up, it supplies ~12 volts, like it should.

When the converter is off, the neq side of the battery pack is supplying the ground, though the converter, so I'm getting ~48 volts. So, unless the converter is off, I can't use the oem wires for my meter. Unfortunately for me, I have to run wires from the batteries to the meter. No big deal, it's done.

I get the same results with any wire in the dash that supplies 48 volts, as the ground is all the same. At first, I thought I was having problems, because people are posting that they have converters and they don't have this issue. I don't understand how that is possible, unless other converters are not wired like mine? But, either way, once the converter is on, that ground is ~12 volts and that will affect your meter if you wired it to the oem wires.