2007 DS overheated now won't go

mlpickett · 10-01-2012, 11:39 AM

I have a 2007 Club car DS, 48 V. It had a burning smell. I checked and found a loose battery cable which I tightened. I took it out for a ride. The burning smell came back and it got very hot on the cables and the motor. I let it cool, but not enough apparently because it eventually quit and had to be pushed home.

The battery voltage is 48+. The solenoid seems to be clicking when I press the pedal. However, the output leg of the solenoid is reading 46.7 V without pressing the pedal. I have tried shorting across the two legs of the solenoid and it still will not run.

The voltage to the motor is very low and fluctuates wildly between about zero and 20 V when the pedal is pressed. The motor will slightly engage with the pedal is first depressed, but I can hear the transmission only attempt to engage and the wheels do not turn.

I thinking it is a bad controller not getting voltage to the motor and it is keeping the solenoid engaged all the time to explain those readings. How can I know for sure? Any ideas or feedback would be appreciated.

TahoeDawgZ71 · 10-01-2012, 12:01 PM

It's either a motor or controller failure. Do a continuity test on the motor with a multimeter to eliminate it as the culprit. Unhook battery pack with car in TOW position. Unhook all 4 wires from motor. Check for continuity between A1 and A2 and again between F1 and F2. You should have 100% continuity in both places. If you don't, the motor is bad. If you have continuity from any of these posts to ANYWHERE else on the motor except for the corresponding post, the motor is shorted out and must be replaced. If motor passes the test, the controller is the probleml.

mlpickett · 10-01-2012, 12:35 PM

Thanks. Motor test passed. Ordering the Controller.

mlpickett · 10-01-2012, 01:30 PM

Next question, as I await my new controller. Did the bad controller cause the overheating and burning smell or did something overheating and making a burning smell kill the controller? I don't want to install a new controller just to burn it up again? Was the loose battery cable heating up enough to damage the controller and if so, why did it still overheat and smell after I fixed the cable? Can a controller just go bad on its own and make things overheat and smell?

TahoeDawgZ71 · 10-01-2012, 02:53 PM

The loose battery cable can cause excessive heat which can cause the controller to short out. Then you'll smell the controller burning. That's my guess as to what happened.

mlpickett · 10-05-2012, 09:47 AM

Back to the drawing board. I got a new controller and installed it but still no go.

I put a meter on the two main lugs of the motor to see what voltage it was getting. When I pressed the pedal it showed 3.5 volts momentarily and then dropped to zero. I did this several times. The wheels did actually move a little once or twice. But then that stopped and now the solenoid is not even clicking on.

Any ideas?

mlpickett · 10-05-2012, 02:26 PM

Okay I hot wired the small terminals of the solenoid to the battery pack and the solenoid is working fine. I am convinced it is not the problem.

I also unhooked the battery pack waited a while and tried again. When I step on the pedal the solenoid engages and the motor pulls about 3.5 volts and the wheels spin slowly. If I do this too many times it will stop working and the controller feels very warm. Then if I unhook the battery pack wait and hook it back up again it works again.

I have also checked the MCOR. It had correct readings on all three of the wires on the three prong.

Could it be the OBC? I would think it was all or nothing and would not be restricting the voltage to the motor. But something seems to be.

Speedchaser · 10-05-2012, 03:35 PM

All I can say is if the pack voltage is only 48 volt you are at about 50% charge. Are you unable to charge the batteries? If you can give it a full charge and then see where you are at. Certainly battery failure will cause your same problems and it is possible the overheat started from a bad bat or caused a bad bat. Check all bat voltages, especially the one you said had a loose cable.

mlpickett · 10-05-2012, 03:38 PM

i don't understand how 48 volts is a 50% charge. There are four 12 volt batteries. Shouldn't that be 48 volts?

Speedchaser · 10-05-2012, 03:42 PM

Follow this link to find your answer:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...-readings.html

10-01-2012, 11:39 AM	#1
mlpickett Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 23	2007 DS overheated now won't go I have a 2007 Club car DS, 48 V. It had a burning smell. I checked and found a loose battery cable which I tightened. I took it out for a ride. The burning smell came back and it got very hot on the cables and the motor. I let it cool, but not enough apparently because it eventually quit and had to be pushed home. The battery voltage is 48+. The solenoid seems to be clicking when I press the pedal. However, the output leg of the solenoid is reading 46.7 V without pressing the pedal. I have tried shorting across the two legs of the solenoid and it still will not run. The voltage to the motor is very low and fluctuates wildly between about zero and 20 V when the pedal is pressed. The motor will slightly engage with the pedal is first depressed, but I can hear the transmission only attempt to engage and the wheels do not turn. I thinking it is a bad controller not getting voltage to the motor and it is keeping the solenoid engaged all the time to explain those readings. How can I know for sure? Any ideas or feedback would be appreciated.
mlpickett Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 23

10-01-2012, 12:01 PM	#2
TahoeDawgZ71 revolutiongolfcars.com Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Golf Car Capital of The World... Augusta, Georgia Posts: 10,224	Re: 2007 DS overheated now won't go It's either a motor or controller failure. Do a continuity test on the motor with a multimeter to eliminate it as the culprit. Unhook battery pack with car in TOW position. Unhook all 4 wires from motor. Check for continuity between A1 and A2 and again between F1 and F2. You should have 100% continuity in both places. If you don't, the motor is bad. If you have continuity from any of these posts to ANYWHERE else on the motor except for the corresponding post, the motor is shorted out and must be replaced. If motor passes the test, the controller is the probleml.

10-01-2012, 12:35 PM	#3
mlpickett Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 23	Re: 2007 DS overheated now won't go Thanks. Motor test passed. Ordering the Controller.
mlpickett Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 23

10-01-2012, 01:30 PM	#4
mlpickett Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 23	Re: 2007 DS overheated now won't go Next question, as I await my new controller. Did the bad controller cause the overheating and burning smell or did something overheating and making a burning smell kill the controller? I don't want to install a new controller just to burn it up again? Was the loose battery cable heating up enough to damage the controller and if so, why did it still overheat and smell after I fixed the cable? Can a controller just go bad on its own and make things overheat and smell?
mlpickett Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 23

10-01-2012, 02:53 PM	#5
TahoeDawgZ71 revolutiongolfcars.com Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: Golf Car Capital of The World... Augusta, Georgia Posts: 10,224	Re: 2007 DS overheated now won't go The loose battery cable can cause excessive heat which can cause the controller to short out. Then you'll smell the controller burning. That's my guess as to what happened.

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10-05-2012, 09:47 AM	#6
mlpickett Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 23	Re: 2007 DS overheated now won't go Back to the drawing board. I got a new controller and installed it but still no go. I put a meter on the two main lugs of the motor to see what voltage it was getting. When I pressed the pedal it showed 3.5 volts momentarily and then dropped to zero. I did this several times. The wheels did actually move a little once or twice. But then that stopped and now the solenoid is not even clicking on. Any ideas?
mlpickett Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 23

10-05-2012, 02:26 PM	#7
mlpickett Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 23	Re: 2007 DS overheated now won't go Okay I hot wired the small terminals of the solenoid to the battery pack and the solenoid is working fine. I am convinced it is not the problem. I also unhooked the battery pack waited a while and tried again. When I step on the pedal the solenoid engages and the motor pulls about 3.5 volts and the wheels spin slowly. If I do this too many times it will stop working and the controller feels very warm. Then if I unhook the battery pack wait and hook it back up again it works again. I have also checked the MCOR. It had correct readings on all three of the wires on the three prong. Could it be the OBC? I would think it was all or nothing and would not be restricting the voltage to the motor. But something seems to be.
mlpickett Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 23

10-05-2012, 03:35 PM	#8
Speedchaser Gone Wild Join Date: Jul 2012 Posts: 909	Re: 2007 DS overheated now won't go All I can say is if the pack voltage is only 48 volt you are at about 50% charge. Are you unable to charge the batteries? If you can give it a full charge and then see where you are at. Certainly battery failure will cause your same problems and it is possible the overheat started from a bad bat or caused a bad bat. Check all bat voltages, especially the one you said had a loose cable.
Speedchaser Gone Wild Join Date: Jul 2012 Posts: 909

10-05-2012, 03:38 PM	#9
mlpickett Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 23	Re: 2007 DS overheated now won't go i don't understand how 48 volts is a 50% charge. There are four 12 volt batteries. Shouldn't that be 48 volts?
mlpickett Not Yet Wild Join Date: May 2008 Posts: 23

10-05-2012, 03:42 PM	#10
Speedchaser Gone Wild Join Date: Jul 2012 Posts: 909	Re: 2007 DS overheated now won't go Follow this link to find your answer: http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...-readings.html
Speedchaser Gone Wild Join Date: Jul 2012 Posts: 909

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