Troubles with rebuilt 2001 48 volt club car

code red · 01-04-2013, 08:23 PM

I decided to rebuild the motor on my 2001 Club Car 48 V....I got a friend to turn the armature...got the brushes online and finished up last night. The batteries for my cart tested bad...bought batteries today. Got ready to test it out and when I hit the accelerator..the cart attempts to go forward then nothing...same in reverse. Any help would be much appreciated. No wires are getting hot or burning up....it has me perplexed. Anyone with any insight I would appreciate your help.

code red · 01-05-2013, 11:48 AM

I got power up to the controller and the solenoid. I tried jacking up the back and seeing if I could set the brushes in the armature...wheels wouldn't turn. I tried disconnecting the connections to the motor and hooking the volt meter to it and spinning the wheels also...I got nothing to regester. Is there anyway to test a controller to see if I fried it...I just don't know what to do next. Is is possible I turned the armature to far.

Golfdog · 01-06-2013, 01:50 AM

I would start by testing the motor. Make sure u have a wheel off the ground. See attachment, with tks to Nivel.

cheapjeep2 · 01-06-2013, 06:07 PM

The one thing that document does not tell you to do is disconnect the battery pack first before going in and messing with the motor connections. Make sure the pack is not hooked up.

code red · 01-06-2013, 06:28 PM

Well I cleaned the armature grooves real good and it finally runs but it is getting way hot....not the wires but the motor itself and it runs very slow and vibrates. I think I jacked up the armature and turned it down way too much.

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cheapjeep2 · 01-06-2013, 07:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by code red

Well I cleaned the armature grooves real good and it finally runs but it is getting way hot....not the wires but the motor itself and it runs very slow and vibrates. I think I jacked up the armature and turned it down way too much.

Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2

Sounds like you have a short to the case. Did you do use your meter set to ohms and check for proper continuity? A1 to A2 should have continuity, F1/S1 to F2/S2 should have continuity, but nothing from either set of posts to the other set of posts, or from either set of posts to the case. Ohm out from each post to the case and see if you have a short.

code red · 01-06-2013, 07:25 PM

I have a cheap conductivity tester. The light comes on regardless of which post I put it on..thanks for your help.....I am a golfer not a mechanic.

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cheapjeep2 · 01-06-2013, 07:31 PM

Cheap or not, if you are getting the light to come on with more than what I have said, that is a huge problem. Sounds like you have a short.

Again, using you light bulb testor this is what you should have....

A1 - A2 - Light on

S1/F1 - S2/F2 - Light on

A1 - to anything else but A2 - Light off
A2 - to anything else but A1 - Light of

S1/F1 - to anything else but S2/F2 - Light off
S2/F2 - to anything else but S1/F/1 - Light off

If you have the light on in either of those last four scenarios, then you have a direct short and I strongly advise you not apply power to it till you can figure it out cause you can permanently damage the motor or the controller.

code red · 01-06-2013, 08:08 PM

I figure I turned the armature to far. I am almost certain we turned it down at least 1/7....talking to my dad he thinks that might be the problem.
t from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2

01-04-2013, 08:23 PM	#1
code red Not Yet Wild Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 10	Troubles with rebuilt 2001 48 volt club car I decided to rebuild the motor on my 2001 Club Car 48 V....I got a friend to turn the armature...got the brushes online and finished up last night. The batteries for my cart tested bad...bought batteries today. Got ready to test it out and when I hit the accelerator..the cart attempts to go forward then nothing...same in reverse. Any help would be much appreciated. No wires are getting hot or burning up....it has me perplexed. Anyone with any insight I would appreciate your help.
code red Not Yet Wild Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 10

01-05-2013, 11:48 AM	#2
code red Not Yet Wild Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 10	Re: Troubles with rebuilt 2001 48 volt club car I got power up to the controller and the solenoid. I tried jacking up the back and seeing if I could set the brushes in the armature...wheels wouldn't turn. I tried disconnecting the connections to the motor and hooking the volt meter to it and spinning the wheels also...I got nothing to regester. Is there anyway to test a controller to see if I fried it...I just don't know what to do next. Is is possible I turned the armature to far.
code red Not Yet Wild Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 10

01-06-2013, 06:07 PM	#4
cheapjeep2 Gone Wild Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Peachtree City, Georgia Posts: 1,546	Re: Troubles with rebuilt 2001 48 volt club car The one thing that document does not tell you to do is disconnect the battery pack first before going in and messing with the motor connections. Make sure the pack is not hooked up.

01-06-2013, 06:28 PM	#5
code red Not Yet Wild Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 10	Well I cleaned the armature grooves real good and it finally runs but it is getting way hot....not the wires but the motor itself and it runs very slow and vibrates. I think I jacked up the armature and turned it down way too much. Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
code red Not Yet Wild Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 10

01-06-2013, 07:25 PM	#7
code red Not Yet Wild Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 10	I have a cheap conductivity tester. The light comes on regardless of which post I put it on..thanks for your help.....I am a golfer not a mechanic. Sent from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
code red Not Yet Wild Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 10

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01-06-2013, 07:31 PM	#8
cheapjeep2 Gone Wild Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Peachtree City, Georgia Posts: 1,546	Re: Troubles with rebuilt 2001 48 volt club car Cheap or not, if you are getting the light to come on with more than what I have said, that is a huge problem. Sounds like you have a short. Again, using you light bulb testor this is what you should have.... A1 - A2 - Light on S1/F1 - S2/F2 - Light on A1 - to anything else but A2 - Light off A2 - to anything else but A1 - Light of S1/F1 - to anything else but S2/F2 - Light off S2/F2 - to anything else but S1/F/1 - Light off If you have the light on in either of those last four scenarios, then you have a direct short and I strongly advise you not apply power to it till you can figure it out cause you can permanently damage the motor or the controller.

01-06-2013, 08:08 PM	#9
code red Not Yet Wild Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 10	I figure I turned the armature to far. I am almost certain we turned it down at least 1/7....talking to my dad he thinks that might be the problem. t from my MB860 using Tapatalk 2
code red Not Yet Wild Join Date: Dec 2007 Posts: 10

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