Cable length of a Resistor DS?

[UncleJerm76]

Originally Posted by jdunmyer

UJ said:
That's not really true, your cart draws less current when you don't have your foot all the way down. It will run longer if you don't use WOT all the time.

Hmm where are you getting your info? Would love to read up on some documentation on that theory. Its my understanding that these old school coils burn off/waste whats not needed in order to go slower. So at 10% throttle, it's burning off (wasting) 90% of the juice on the small coil, while the remaining 10% makes it to the motor. But at WOT its all going to the motor with nothing being wasted? At least that's what I've been taught.

Really appreciate the DIY cable link, love doing my own stuff so ill definitely be checking it out to see if it makes cents - pun intended :P ...One avenue I haven't yet pursued is I heard welding shops will crimp for free if you buy the wire from them. Also heard NAPA auto parts will do the same. Again, I don't know the cost involved, but it would save me the price of buying a crimper!

Thanks again!


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[msdeer]

The motor at anything other than WOT isn't drawing full power. Whats happening when you are stepping through the throttle is 4 different resistors are limiting the voltage available to the motor. VOLTAGE controls the SPEED> CURRENT controls the TORQUE.
At lower speed you current consumption by the motor is less.
I don't know if DC motors have linear current consumption or not, I am an electronics guy, not a electrical guy. If they are linear that would mean at 25% speed it draws 25% as much current as 100% and 50% draws 50%.
It really doesn't matter that much. I am going to upgrade the cables on one of my resistor carts this weekend and see what it does performance wise. I am going to run 2 gauge on the direct link, F/R switch, to the step box, and solenoid, and 4 gauge on everything else.
It would have to make a small difference on the last throttle position, but the limiting factor is going to be the solenoid and stepper switch current capability.

[jdunmyer]

UncleJerm said:

Hmm where are you getting your info? Would love to read up on some documentation on that theory. Its my understanding that these old school coils burn off/waste whats not needed in order to go slower. So at 10% throttle, it's burning off (wasting) 90% of the juice on the small coil, while the remaining 10% makes it to the motor. But at WOT its all going to the motor with nothing being wasted? At least that's what I've been taught.

UJ,
You've been taught wrong. During my electronics schooling (Associate's Degree), our instructor asked the trick question, "When your car's heater blower is on 'low', the current goes through a resistor to make it run slower. As the excess voltage is disappated in the form of heat, does the current draw from the battery remain the same?" Your answer would have been 'Yes', but of course that is wrong.

Going back to basics, think of the motor as a resistor: going by Ohm's Law, given a certain battery voltage, it will draw XX amps. Add a resistor in series (those 'old school' coils) and the total circuit resistance is higher, thus the total current draw is less.

Yes, you are wasting some battery energy and a solid-state controller will be more efficient overall, but it isn't as much as many people think. What you're picturing is a shunt (instead of series) resistor coil, which would be the equivilant of riding the brakes to control the speed, something that would obviously hurt efficiency.

[UncleJerm76]

Originally Posted by msdeer

I am going to upgrade the cables on one of my resistor carts this weekend and see what it does performance wise. I am going to run 2 gauge on the direct link, F/R switch, to the step box, and solenoid, and 4 gauge on everything else.
It would have to make a small difference on the last throttle position, but the limiting factor is going to be the solenoid and stepper switch current capability.

Awesome, please report back how it goes!



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[UncleJerm76]

Originally Posted by jdunmyer

UJ, you've been taught wrong...

...Don't tell my wife


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[UncleJerm76]

I have the DS VGlide with one solenoid. I highlighted all the wires I think I need in this diagram for full throttle only, did I get them all? Battery Wires will be ordered too but I excluded those in the diagram. Oh and if you see a mistake of one I don't need or one I left out, please refer to the wire number so I can find it easily. As it is below I think I need eight wires? ( 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 12, 21, 23 )

[msdeer]

You would also need the short cable from the wiper on the vglide to the solenoid

[UncleJerm76]

Originally Posted by msdeer

You would also need the short cable from the wiper on the vglide to the solenoid

which number is that?

...Ugh never mind. I see now that is the one wire that is not upgradable. I have a bad feeling if I upgrade the rest of them that will be the weakest link and will probably fail the first time the cart is under extreme load ie: Slowly going up a steep incline. Looks like I'm stuck with buying new 6ga.

Wish I had an extra 1k laying around to do the SSD upgrade.

[UncleJerm76]

Originally Posted by UncleJerm76

Awesome, please report back how it goes!



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Hey MSDeer was hoping you could provide some followup on how your replacements went? I did my battery pack after a old terminal overheated and broke. Then the cable from my solenoid to F/R switch melted in half at the terminal. Slowly replacing them all with 2 ga. Any feedback on how your little project went?

[scotter]

Might want to also check this out.
http://www.buggiesunlimited.com/golf...e%20bypass.pdf

4 and 2 gauge lugs don't really fit into the V Glide very well. Will need some modification.
Additionally, the wiper arm (the real problem) is only 6 gauge, with no way to upgrade it.
You can do new wires for the batts, the FnR and solenoid. Cut and crimp your own cables with a (hammer) crimper, lugs and cable. You can even make your own V Glide cables with modified lugs. Wiper arm is the way it is.

If memory serves, I used approx. 35 feet to do all but the V Glide. Keep the wires as short as possible, if you can.
Upgrading will lessen the resistance through all the upgraded cables = less heat, means they stay cooler.