Cable length of a Resistor DS?

[UncleJerm76]

Originally Posted by scotter

Might want to also check this out.
http://www.buggiesunlimited.com/golf...e%20bypass.pdf

4 and 2 gauge lugs don't really fit into the V Glide very well. Will need some modification.
Additionally, the wiper arm (the real problem) is only 6 gauge, with no way to upgrade it.
You can do new wires for the batts, the FnR and solenoid. Cut and crimp your own cables with a (hammer) crimper, lugs and cable. You can even make your own V Glide cables with modified lugs. Wiper arm is the way it is.

If memory serves, I used approx. 35 feet to do all but the V Glide. Keep the wires as short as possible, if you can.
Upgrading will lessen the resistance through all the upgraded cables = less heat, means they stay cooler.

Dang Scotter, thank you for that link man!!! (And BTW, nice looking cart you got there!) I looked for it for several weeks and just gave up, so I really appreciate the documentation — It is now bookmarked! I love this forum, some of the best people out there always willing to help or share info.

I knew about the vGlide limitation thanks to MSDEER (up earlier in this thread). So I started considering other mods that will benefit from the 2ga wire as well. Such as the 48v+ full throttle mod -or- the bypass which I couldn't find until you posted it. The full throttle mod is how i'm leaning right now. I already have a 12v charger and quick disconnect I could use. Its just a matter of if I want to tackle the miles of a new wiring nest and new solenoid and safety switches and... and... and... and.... Thanks again!

[jdunmyer]

UJ,
The smallish wire on the V-Glide might not present as much of a problem as you think. On a series cart, going up a steep hill will be slow, no matter what. Here's my (admittedly somewhat limited) personal experience:

My old Legend, classic resistor cart, would slow down considerably on a long, somewhat steep hill. A shorter, steeper hill would slow it even more. In both cases, I had the pedal to the floorboard.

I built up a 'new' 1979 CC cart, still 36 volts, but with a Curtis controller and all 4 gauge wire. Presented with the same hills as above (same location), the cart slows about the same as the old Legend. The main difference is I can have the pedal partway down and the cart will maintain speed; pushing it to the floor doesn't help much, if at all.

The controller also gives me "stepless" acceleration, which is nice.

Also, FWIW: I made my own cables, using 4AWG wire from the scrapyard. It's basically welding cable, but didn't necessarily come from a welder. For lugs, I used a piece of 3/8" copper tubing, 1 1/2" long. I slightly flared the end, then flattened the other end for about 3/4". Drilled it for a 5/16" bolt, then crimped it onto the cable end, using a Harbor Freight hydraulic crimper. See: http://www.harborfreight.com/hydraul...ool-66150.html I wrapped the connections with "Rescue Tape", see: http://www.rescuetape.com/ The connections look nice, stay cool, and should last a long time.

[scottyb]

Wot is wide open throttle no matter how you get there.
The resistor coils are out of the amperage delivery loop at WOT.

[UncleJerm76]

Originally Posted by jdunmyer

UJ,
The controller also gives me "stepless" acceleration, which is nice.

Was the upgrade worth the money in your opinion? It will be around a grand for me to upgrade to the controller & other components I would want to eliminate my resistors & vGlide.

[UncleJerm76]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Wot is wide open throttle no matter how you get there.
The resistor coils are out of the amperage delivery loop at WOT.

Hey Scotty, I see your C54 conversion package works with both 36v or 48v ...does your C74 Pkg also do the same?

[jdunmyer]

Scottyb,
WOT is WOT, controller or resistor, but "not quite WOT" is different:

With resistor controls, the cart will slow down rather dramatically if you're running along at less than WOT and encounter resistance such as a hill.

A controller puts out a certain voltage to the motor, depending on the input from the throttle pot. Loading the motor won't cause the voltage to dip as it would with resistors, so any slowdown is much less noticable.

UJ,
I bought my cart at an auction with the express intent of a complete replacement of the wiring and controls. I'd been collecting pieces/parts from my weekly scrapyard visits: a Curtis 1205 (400 amp) controller and associated pedal assembly, a reversing contactor from an electric pallet truck, and bunches of cables. The reversing contactor has 24 volt coils, but I got around that by simply placing a resistor in series with the common connection so as to supply the coils with 24 volts from my 36 volt pack. An industrial 3-position selector switch on the dash is my F/N/R switcher.

It was well worthwhile, as the total cost for the electrics was mostly in the cables. It was still probably under $100.00. The big costs were in the cart: it has hydraulic brakes that needed total rebuilding. Total for that was over $350.00.

"And now you know the rest of the story".

[scotter]

Hey UncleJerm76
Would the vglide bypass also work if you sequenced in 12 more volts after the bypass solenoid to the motor? So it would be:
36V to bypass solenoid to +12V to Motor = 48V to motor at WOT
Vglide is out of the circuit completely.
Thoughts?

[UncleJerm76]

Originally Posted by scotter

Hey UncleJerm76
Would the vglide bypass also work if you sequenced in 12 more volts after the bypass solenoid to the motor? So it would be:
36V to bypass solenoid to +12V to Motor = 48V to motor at WOT
Vglide is out of the circuit completely.
Thoughts?

I don't see why that wouldn't work, but I would imagine you'd have a pretty big jerk or jolt going from 80'ish% of 36v to 100% of 48v?


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[scotter]

Yep, probably right. ScottyB must be shaking his head, right about now (sorry ScottyB).
Perhaps modifying the resistor coils so it wouldn't be as noticeable? (go to less coils or bigger/smaller gauge coils, or both). I have 5 coils (supposed to be 6 - could only source a "5" board) so I routed both cables on the last two vglide contacts to go to the end of the resistor coils. I reach WOT at the 2nd to last vglide contact. With the aforementioned modification, the last vglide contact could be the bypass. Might be less noticeable. I have to ponder this...

Uncle Jed: Jethro. How 'bout some gazintas?
Jethro: 5 gazinta 5, once. 5 gazinta 10, twice. 5 gazinta 15, three times....

[scottyb]

TO answer you r question about operating on 36 or 48v yes, any of the conversion kits that end in 4 will run on either 36 or 48 volts. and generally any upgrade kit listed on the site with the letter B in it will do the same.

I'm not shaking my head.... I've burnt up my share of experimental components

a couple of outstanding benefits of solid state conversion are:
seamless acceleration
more efficient operation & longer run-time
possible 48v performance and increased operating efficiency