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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV.



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Old 05-18-2013, 01:25 PM   #1
Mark59
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Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: LaPorte,In
Posts: 20
Default Wiring diagram older Marathon

I have a 1979 marathon 36v electric cart,runs fine in forward when I put it in reverse the for/rev switch box sparks like the 4th of July,have to move switch out of reverse to stop sparks/arching.
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Old 05-18-2013, 05:49 PM   #2
rib33024
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Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: FT Lauderdale FL.
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Default Re: Wiring diagram older Marathon

Welcome to BGW

this should help, sounds like you need a new F/R switch, or if is not in to bad of shapr, you can rebuild it









http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...-r-switch.html



F/R---old EZGO------
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Quote:
Originally Posted by pggroves View Post
MECHANICAL FNR HEAVY DUTY BUSS UPGRADE



OK, had a bit of a problem with the SD card out of the camera so I lost all but a couple of the pics of this rebuild. So, I had to “rebuild the rebuild” and get the relevant pictures for this post.

This upgrade will increase the amp carrying capacity of a mechanical FNR switch on an EZGO golf cart.

To fab your own buss bars, obtain enough alloy 110 or 102 1/8"(.125”) thick copper sheet to make 2 each buss bars ˝” wide by 2-1/4” in length. Use the factory buss bars as a template to drill 2 holes @ 21/64” diameter for the studs. File or grind the corners round.

Now, armed with your new buss bars, follow the directions below to install heavy duty buss bars in the FNR cam.

1. Disconnect main positive and negative cables from battery pack then insulate and secure.
2. Remove FNR switch cables and micro wires then mark, insulate, and secure.
3. Remove FNR switch from cart.

Now that the FNR switch is out of the cart and on the bench you should have something that looks like this.


Remove the lock nut from the back side of the FNR switch shaft. Indicated by the arrow in this pic.


Pull the cam and shaft assembly from the shifter side straight out from the FNR switch board. You don't necessarily have to remove the reverse buzzer or micro switches. If you don't remove the micros, make sure to align the indents in the cam to the micro switch rollers and don't bend them when reinstalling the cam on the board.

You should have something that resembles this pic. The shaft has been removed for clarity. You can see it behind the cam.


IMPORTANT: Note the orientation of the buss bars on the FNR cam. Then remove the 4 nuts that retain the copper studs, springs, and bushings. You should now have this in front of you on the bench.


Remove and replace as required the 4 copper studs. If you get this far, you should replace all 8 studs as a rule anyway. Inspect the springs and measure length of each. If all measure close to same then you should be good to go. I have yet to find HD springs for this application. I'm still looking! You may have to trim the bushing length to insure proper fit on the FNR cam. I cut 1/16" off of each bushing to accommodate the thicker buss bars. If you trim the bushings, make sure to cut squarely!!! This pic is of the FNR cam completely disassembled. The arrows point to the buss bars. That's what we're after.


Here is a pic of your new HD buss bars compared to the factory bars. Now you see why upgrading the buss bars is important!


Reassembly is reverse. Make sure to put the buss bars back in the correct orientation on the cam as noted above. Do not tension the springs until all nuts are started then tension (tighten) the nuts sequentially in a cross pattern.

THIS PART IS VERY IMPORTANT. REFER TO THE PICTURE BELOW AND MAKE ABSOLUTELY CERTAIN THAT THE LONG EDGE OF THE COPPER STUDS ARE ORIENTED EXACTLY AS THIS PHOTO. THIS INSURES PERFECT CONTACT WITH THE OPPOSING STUD WHEN YOU REASSEMBLE THE FNR.


This pic shows why aligning the studs on the FNR cam is critical. The first pic, the FNR is in Neutral. The second pic the FNR is in forward. If you don't align the cam studs properly then you will not make perfect contact with the mating stud resulting in problems.




Reinstall the cam back in the FNR board. I use a very small amount of dielectric grease on the shaft but only where it passes through the phenolic board. Install the shaft nut and washer and tighten. You'll have to decide how tight you want the FNR lever to be. You'll know if you over tighten the FNR shaft nut since you won't be able to turn the FNR lever.

As a rule, I strip the FNR completely and clean and polish every part. I normally replace all 8 copper studs and suggest you do the same.

Congratulations! You now have a heavy duty FNR switch!


Tools list:
Screwdriver (phillips & straight)
Wrenches (3/8; 7/16";1/2";9/16")
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Old 05-20-2013, 12:11 AM   #3
Mark59
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Default Re: Wiring diagram older Marathon

I thank you for your response and help.I already replaced my F/R switch with a new one and it started to do the same thing.I never had this problem until I reinstalled the motor.My motor has 4 studs all in a row,they are not stagged like the one's in the diagram you sent me so I'am really confused on what stud is what?If you want to read a long story on how this all came about my first post was on April 20,2013.Now I wish I never messed with anything but common sense told me I shouldn't keep driving the cart with locking vise grips to hold the one wire to the broken stud on the motor.Looking down at the motor area from the front of the cart my motor has 1 stud on the left,then 3" to the right the next 3 studs are all in the same row just 2" apart from each other.The 3rd stud from the left,2nd from the right is the one that was my original problem.It was loose in the body of the motor,I couldn't tighten it up from the outside,I was just going to add another nut then attach the wire back and top it off with another nut on top but the threads were screwed up,I couldn't tighten anything up-worried I snap the whole stud off I just rigged it up with locking pliers and a hose clamp.The wire went to the F/R switch of course,looking down from the front of the cart and using a clock as a reference with the bottom being 12 o'clock the top 6,this wire went to the 9 o'clock position,left middle on the F/R switch.I know just enough to be dangerous,I'am 99% sure I wired everthing back the way I took it off before I had the motor worked on.The guy that did it owns a electic/motor rebuilding company,he did it for free cause he friends with my brother,I know he's not a golf cart expert but he forgot more then I will ever know about motors/electricty,so before I get back with him and maybe insult him and loose a friendship I figured I better be 100% sure this isn't cause by me doing something wrong.This is sparking/getting so hot it's starting to melt 2 of the pads and 2 of the contacts on the F/R board.Common sense tell's me I have a direct short now but why?If I kept it in forward I was able to drive the cart just fine so I guessed my F/R switch must be screwed up so I ordered parts to rebuild it-4 new pads and a new contact board the pads rotate on.Put it all back together, forward worked great,as soon as I switched it to reverse,major sparks flying all over,switched back to forward position to stop sparking,inspected F/R switch and it's starting to burn up exactly like my original-2 pads & 2 contacts on the new setup>WHAT DO YOU THINK??Sorry this is so long but I figured the more you knew the easier it might be for you to help me.Please help me if you can.
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