1996 - 36 volt TXT Series Just Clicks

[KGezgo]

I have a 96 - 36 volt TXT Series EZGO. I bought it used. It is lifted and has 22's. I was also told when I bought it that it had a speed upgrade....dont know that for sure. For the first week it ran great. Then it would run great for a minute or so and then get really slow. Then it would just run really slow. I read a bunch of your threads and started trying to fix it myself. The batteries were 8 years old so I replaced them first.....charged them for 12 plus hours and until my charger showed that they were fully charged.....didnt improve much. Next I replaced the F/R switch and cleaned and checked every connection on every cable and it ran better than ever for about 10 minutes and then slowly started getting slower and slower again. I then decided it must be corrosion inside the cables so I replaced all 4 to the drive motor and the other 4 that complete the main wiring harness.....all with heavier gauge cable.......It ran great again for about 10 minutes and then got slower until it wouldnt hardly pull itself. I put it back in the grage and stuck it back on the charger......stuck it in reverse and backed it out of the garage.....put it in forward and now all it will do is click the solenoid. Checked all of the wiring again and cant find anything that looks bad. Ideas? Thanks

[Sir Nuke]

First off......is your TXT a series motored cart or a sepex? Here's how to tell the difference...

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...en-system.html


oh and btw....Welcome to our happy little corner of the net, and to BGW. There is a BIG fridge on the back porch with anything you can think of in it...help yourself...of course only take what you can LEGALLY have. Make yourself at home on one of the big fluffy couches, kick your shoes off, put your feet up on one of the tables, yes we are allowed to do that, mom's, wive's, husbands, girlfirends and boyfriends here don't care....and take it easy.



oh...btw....every once in a while a food fight breaks out...so you may not want to wear nice clothes here.

Welcome!!

[KGezgo]

Definitely staying away from the nice clothes. It is a series. Thanks

Yours sounds like a very cool TXT!

[Sir Nuke]

Originally Posted by KGezgo

Definitely staying away from the nice clothes. It is a series. Thanks

Yours sounds like a very cool TXT!

I have only had it for about a month.....I bought it used, then completely rebuilt it from the frame up......and all with the help/knowledge of this forum. As this was my first cart......I certainly am not an expert on the electrical part, and I hope that either scottyb or johnnieB will see your thread a chime it to help you.

[JohnnieB]

What is the At-Rest battery pack voltage? (At-Rest means 12 hours after charger shuts off without being further charged or discharged.)
Should be 38.2V for a 36V battery pack, and a bit higher for new batteries.

What are the individual battery voltages?
Should be 6.37V for 6V batteries and all batteries should be within 0.1V of each other.

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Sounds like you've replace 8 of the 13 high current cables. You still have 5 more to replace.

What gauge and type cable? Should be 4Ga minimum made from high strand count welding cable.

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Connect a DVM between the B- and M- terminals on the controller.
You should measure FULL battery pack voltage when you press the pedal just far enough for the solenoid to click.

If no volts or less than FULL battery pack voltage, use the attached schematic to trace the high current circuit until you find the missing voltage.

[KGezgo]

Hey JohnnieB,

Sorry it has taken so long to get back to you but I have been out of town. Answers to your questions below. Thank you very much for the help.

What is the At-Rest battery pack voltage? (At-Rest means 12 hours after charger shuts off without being further charged or discharged.)
Should be 38.2V for a 36V battery pack, and a bit higher for new batteries. 38.1V after sitting for 36 hours

What are the individual battery voltages?
Should be 6.37V for 6V batteries and all batteries should be within 0.1V of each other.All batteries 6.34V or 6.35V

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Sounds like you've replace 8 of the 13 high current cables. You still have 5 more to replace.

What gauge and type cable? Should be 4Ga minimum made from high strand count welding cable.1AWG Welding Cable on all of the new ones. existing that I have not changed yet are 4G

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Connect a DVM between the B- and M- terminals on the controller.
You should measure FULL battery pack voltage when you press the pedal just far enough for the solenoid to click.38.1V Just after solenoid clicks

If no volts or less than FULL battery pack voltage, use the attached schematic to trace the high current circuit until you find the missing voltage.

[JohnnieB]

Your batteries/battery pack appear to be in good shape.
Your cables appear to be okay so far, but haven't been tested under load yet, so there may be hidden issues.
They really should all be the same gauge. However that isn't causing the problems you are having.

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Attached is a simplified drawing of a series wound motor in a golf cart.
As you see, total current flows through each and every cable and component equally and the same cables and components are used in both forward and reverse.
The only difference between forward and reverse is the direction of current flow through the stator windings, and that is determined by which moveable contacts are touching which stationary contacts in the F/R switch.

I suspect the problem is in the F/R switch.

[KGezgo]

Do yopu think the new F/R Switch I put in is bad?

[scottyb]

You can test for continuity across the contacts in the F&R.

[KGezgo]

Everything there seems to check fine. Sorry to be a pain. Anymore ideas? Thanks