Cart always on. Why?

[amdurham18]

Hello folks, this is my first post. I’m new to the golf cart world besides using them on the course. I’m not a complete mechanical dummy, just somewhat new to the electrical side.

I bought my 2004 EZ-GO TXT 36v with no batteries or wires. The only extra electrical accessory on the cart was a battery meter. After obtaining batteries and wires, I got the cart running, but no working battery meter. Didn’t care then, I was just happy it ran. The previous owner unhooked the backup buzzer, so there were a few unattached wires on the forward/reverse switch. I haven’t addressed that yet.

I soon found out the cart ran no matter if the key was on, off, in, or out. I even unplugged the whole thing and the cart still ran.

This weekend I added a headlight kit. The install was easy. I pulled power from 2 batteries for now. I decided to add a few more goodies this week, so it’s time to address the key switch situation. I ran new wires for the + & - for the battery meter. There was already a constant wire coming off the “on” side of the key switch. Now the battery meter works! The problem is, the cart is still always “on”, I couldn’t figure out the key switch issue. I am installing a voltage reducer, fuse box, and switch panel his week for accessories, so I’ll be able to turn accessories off manually with the switches but the battery meter will always be on.

I checked continuity on the back of the key switch. Everything checks out. No buzz when off, yes buzz when on.

I’m guessing something was wired together or jumped so the key switch would be bypassed. Could it have something to do with the buzzer being unhooked? Is this even possible? What could it be? I’m stumped. Thank you in advance.

[Dixie Chopper]

The experts should be around to help you soon. In the meantime, I’ll ask a couple of questions because ppl will ask. Is your cart a PDS or a Series drive cart? If it’s PDS the F/R is a toggle switch on the dash next to the key. A series cart has a handle located by your right leg that switches manually.

Seems like to me if your key switch wiring is normal and is functioning normal, the previous owner may have wired power to the controller straight from the battery pack or from a constant +36V source keeping the controller powered up all the time.

[amdurham18]

Thanks, I figured it out! There was a positive wire tied to one of the key switch wires, so it was as if the key was always on. Removed that wire, and the switch operates as normal.

The only problem I’m still having is that even though the key switch is now working, the battery meter is still on. I have a theory though, I’ll switch the constant wire to the other one coming from the back of the switch and see what that does. It can wait until tomorrow though, the key switch problem kept me up late enough!