2 terminal battery charge meter connection

[davjohn28]

Just wired up a 48-12v reducer to run headlights and LEDs through. I wired the 12V+ to my ignition switch so reducer will only be Hot when key switch is on.
I also have my battery volt meter wired through the key switch for Same reason. I’m starting to think that my battery meter isn’t reading correctly now. It will now have a constant feed from the inverter coming through the ignition circuit when key is on... anyone have issues with that or know of a solution?

Would it be best to just buy a new mater that is direct wire to batteries and constant on?

[cgtech]

We dont know what meter you have (and is it legit or clone). We don't know what DC converter you have. Some of the cheap chinese stuff is just so bad that it will never work correctly. If you paid a grand total of $25 for the whole lot, don't expect it to work right.

[davjohn28]

Meter is a $50 LED bar graph one. Converter is an Amazon $30 cheap one.

[cgtech]

What brand meter? What brand DC converter?

[davjohn28]

I don’t remember on the meter, I’ve had it for several months... I’m willing to replace to nicer one but seems like there’s a lot of mixed reviews on meters. The converter is a HONELYLIFE or EPBOWPT.... Amazon is telling me 2 different things.

[scottyb]

If I remember right ...
On my 2013 I relocated the F&R switch to below the seat cushion (CC Precedent style housing required) and our meter was a good fit in the old F&R hole below the cup holders.
The F&R relocation was a more ergonomically correct shifter function and the meter fit was a sweet bonus. Sometimes you just get lucky.
By the way cup holder removal and general access was super easy.