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Old 08-08-2010, 08:41 PM   #1
technoid
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Join Date: Aug 2010
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Default Keeping the engine running

I know it was designed this way for safety. But I find it annoying for the engine to shut off when ever I stop or want to just back up on my G16A. I would like to re-wire it like a tractor. Stop, set the brake and it stays running while you get out or shift to reverse. Have a pressure switch under the seat so if you forget the brake and stand up it stalls. Has anyone tried this?
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Old 08-08-2010, 09:05 PM   #2
sho305
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Default Re: Keeping the engine running

I have yet to see one that will shift well with it running, unless you buy an aftermarket clutch with a spring. You can just hot wire the pedal switch to make it run with the key and set the engine to idle faster than the starter...but I don't know why you would its way more convenient to have it start like that. If it does not start right away then it needs a tune up. You can set the engine to idle and it will long as you hold the pedal down a little. Also if it idles with the stock clutch eventually it will wear the belt out because it drags, and that is why you can't shift it without banging the gears. Its not for safety, its because golfers don't want to hear it run and would burn twice the gas. To get technical it is a hybrid vehicle in that sense, its made to start any time you want. Also the generator does not charge at low rpm it will kill the battery running that way after a while, if you don't run it at speed.
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Old 08-09-2010, 05:56 AM   #3
technoid
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Default Re: Keeping the engine running

Quote:
Originally Posted by sho305 View Post
I have yet to see one that will shift well with it running, unless you buy an aftermarket clutch with a spring. You can just hot wire the pedal switch to make it run with the key and set the engine to idle faster than the starter...but I don't know why you would its way more convenient to have it start like that. If it does not start right away then it needs a tune up. You can set the engine to idle and it will long as you hold the pedal down a little. Also if it idles with the stock clutch eventually it will wear the belt out because it drags, and that is why you can't shift it without banging the gears. Its not for safety, its because golfers don't want to hear it run and would burn twice the gas. To get technical it is a hybrid vehicle in that sense, its made to start any time you want. Also the generator does not charge at low rpm it will kill the battery running that way after a while, if you don't run it at speed.
Thanks for the reply. The engine runs just fine. What I don't like about the cart is if your in a tight place, and you start it, it moves right away. You can bang into something or run over something. Also its more wear and tear on the battery and starter motor starting and stopping all the time. But if this is the way they designed the beast then I have some thinking to do on how to change it. The centrifugal clutch probably could be set not to be so tight. I have seen this type of clutch on other equipment. Like small lawn tractors. At low rpm there is no belt drag. You should be able to let it idle without any transmission movement. And all generators have a drop out rpm. The battery is large enough to handle the small ignition current. It could run continuos for hours with no charge. It does not have any other electrical draw. I would not be idling it that long anyway. A few minutes here and there. If I make changes and it works, I will upload my results. Thanks again for your advice.
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Old 08-09-2010, 10:50 AM   #4
sho305
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Default Re: Keeping the engine running

What can happen is if the engine is too far from the trans there is no belt slack and it can drag causing the cart to creep at starting. A cut secondary might cause it too. What is normally the case is the primary is dirty and needs lube. It is easy to check if you stop and pull the primary out it comes away from the belt a little. If the clutch is moving freely it will fall away on its own, dirty it does not and drags or drags worse. A new belt will drag because they are sticky.

This is a CVT clutch system like a snowmobile. The problem is to get a very smooth takeoff at low rpm the cart makers want, Yami decided to put no spring in the primary like most other things have. The spring forces the clutch all the way open at rest so it does not drag on belt until it engages when rpm overcome the spring. The yama has to idle just over generator rpm (pretty low) to not start engaging the clutch. There is no adjustment on them, they work right or don't because something is wrong with them; the clutch is dirty/broken/belt tension is off/etc. The clutch must move free enough to fall away from the belt when the engine stops. Given a new cart may creep a little on pavement but usually not on grass, and they should not lurch when the starter is used providing the idle and throttle cable are set correctly. I always drive them with both feet at slow speeds, but I been driving carts for a long time.

Otherwise you can replace the clutch as the aftermarket ones have a spring, or figure out how to add a spring to the yami clutch. I have been working on that but lost my measurements trying to find them.

If the throttle cable is set too tight it will pull the throttle on as the starter is switched on and the cart will take off. You should be able to slow the cart down to an idle and it stops or creeps just a little on pavement before it turns off...with less and less throttle. I adjust so the top of the pedal moves 1" after the switch clicks to where the carb starts to open. Also if the idle on the carb is up too high it can do the same thing. Put in neutral and turn the idle down until it runs on the starter, then up until it speeds up just a little. You could leave it off so it does not idle for the least creep, but what can happen is if someone drives the cart around very slow mostly on the starter it kills the battery. If it idles that can't happen. Hope some of that can help you.

With my cart soon as it starts creeping I put a slot of grease in the primary, that is roughly twice a summer maybe 3 times. I Used to take the cover off and clean/lube them every summer when I ran trails but not put many miles on it lately with the tired engine.
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Old 08-10-2010, 06:35 AM   #5
technoid
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Default Re: Keeping the engine running

Quote:
Originally Posted by sho305 View Post
What can happen is if the engine is too far from the trans there is no belt slack and it can drag causing the cart to creep at starting. A cut secondary might cause it too. What is normally the case is the primary is dirty and needs lube. It is easy to check if you stop and pull the primary out it comes away from the belt a little. If the clutch is moving freely it will fall away on its own, dirty it does not and drags or drags worse. A new belt will drag because they are sticky.

This is a CVT clutch system like a snowmobile. The problem is to get a very smooth takeoff at low rpm the cart makers want, Yami decided to put no spring in the primary like most other things have. The spring forces the clutch all the way open at rest so it does not drag on belt until it engages when rpm overcome the spring. The yama has to idle just over generator rpm (pretty low) to not start engaging the clutch. There is no adjustment on them, they work right or don't because something is wrong with them; the clutch is dirty/broken/belt tension is off/etc. The clutch must move free enough to fall away from the belt when the engine stops. Given a new cart may creep a little on pavement but usually not on grass, and they should not lurch when the starter is used providing the idle and throttle cable are set correctly. I always drive them with both feet at slow speeds, but I been driving carts for a long time.

Otherwise you can replace the clutch as the aftermarket ones have a spring, or figure out how to add a spring to the yami clutch. I have been working on that but lost my measurements trying to find them.

If the throttle cable is set too tight it will pull the throttle on as the starter is switched on and the cart will take off. You should be able to slow the cart down to an idle and it stops or creeps just a little on pavement before it turns off...with less and less throttle. I adjust so the top of the pedal moves 1" after the switch clicks to where the carb starts to open. Also if the idle on the carb is up too high it can do the same thing. Put in neutral and turn the idle down until it runs on the starter, then up until it speeds up just a little. You could leave it off so it does not idle for the least creep, but what can happen is if someone drives the cart around very slow mostly on the starter it kills the battery. If it idles that can't happen. Hope some of that can help you.

With my cart soon as it starts creeping I put a slot of grease in the primary, that is roughly twice a summer maybe 3 times. I Used to take the cover off and clean/lube them every summer when I ran trails but not put many miles on it lately with the tired engine.
Thank you sir for your input. Its very hard to know what to do with out a service manual. No one seems to have a repair for my model. I contacted Yamaha about a G16A book but did not get a reply yet. Your input was very helpful. I did not know there was a neutral on the shift? I'll have to check that. So I assume the transmission uses grease not oil. What grade and weight grease? Does the rear use hypoy or is it like a garden tractor trans using straight 30w?
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Old 08-10-2010, 08:43 AM   #6
sho305
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Default Re: Keeping the engine running

I have the manual for G9, the trans takes SAE 90wt 300cc or .32 US qt. There is a level plug you fill to, and fill it through the big rubber overflow hose; pull that out of the case. Not sure if yours is the same but should be similar. You can look up the parts on TNT and see a breakdown, and search on here likely has been posted someplace.

The clutches have grease zerks for a grease gun.

There really is not a neutral, you put the shifter in the middle and it should be neutral.
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