1997 TXT Rebuild

[BBBHC]

Someone recently posted in a thread about using a certain year shock from a pinto. If you end up not being happy with what you have there, maybe use the search tool on here for that. Seems quite a bit of people have used them with good results.

[Rooster59]

Then they are probably standard replacement gas charged automotive application shocks. Most likely "twin tube" construction. Those are not designed to be mounted upside down. The gas charge (or air) will move in the tube and potentially surround the hydraulic piston. If that happens your shock piston is moving in a gas instead of a liquid. Little to no damping will result. It takes a specialty type monotube design shock to work upside down and even then some aren't designed to be mounted that way.

If you are concerned about dirt and grime cover the exposed rods with a boot. But run the shocks right side up for best performance and life.

An excerpt from a Gabriel FAQ page:


Can I mount my shock absorber upside down?

No. With the exception of a few specialty shocks, you should never mount your shock absorbers upside down. Typical twin-tube shocks, whether standard or gas-charged, are not designed to function upside down for many important reasons. Attempts to do this will likely result in poor shock performance, premature failure and potential damage to your vehicle.

[Rooster59]

Originally Posted by BBBHC

Someone recently posted in a thread about using a certain year shock from a pinto. If you end up not being happy with what you have there, maybe use the search tool on here for that. Seems quite a bit of people have used them with good results.

I am one of those people. If you want stock length shocks use shocks from a 1970's era Pinto (the rear application fits front and rear of a TXT). If you want or need extended shocks use for the rear of a Mustang circa 1968-1970 The Mustang shocks are noticeably stiffer than the Pinto shocks. For either application purchase the lowest grade. They will be less stiff than the HD version if one is available.

[BBBHC]

Ah ha! I thought it was you Rooster!

Good information on shocks too, thanks!

[Ndawg12]

Originally Posted by Rooster59

I am one of those people. If you want stock length shocks use shocks from a 1970's era Pinto (the rear application fits front and rear of a TXT). If you want or need extended shocks use for the rear of a Mustang circa 1968-1970 The Mustang shocks are noticeably stiffer than the Pinto shocks. For either application purchase the lowest grade. They will be less stiff than the HD version if one is available.

Awesome, thanks for the info, I'll just flip them around tonight and look into covers.

How much extra work would it be to modify the chassis and install a Predator 670? Would I need to monkey with motor mount modifications, drive/driven clutches, etc? I'm pretty sure my 295 is toast or I'll want to upgrade it anyways. Got a price of around $800 for a 13hp 325 from Motors and More but this Predator engine has my attention as well for that price and so much more power. Trying to weigh out my options.

[Rooster59]

Loads of threads here in the modified cart big block section on just that type of conversion. The HF670 conversions are fewer than Briggs v-twins or single cylinder engine conversions but just as easy to do. Mine is a VC625 that I bought from Vegas Carts.

http://www.vegascarts.com/23hp-625cc...xtkit-beta.htm

http://www.vegascarts.com/predator-2...txtkit-v-p.htm

There are other options as well. Check out the modified section in the forum for more threads to wet your appetite.

[Ndawg12]

Originally Posted by Rooster59

Loads of threads here in the modified cart big block section on just that type of conversion. The HF670 conversions are fewer than Briggs v-twins or single cylinder engine conversions but just as easy to do. Mine is a VC625 that I bought from Vegas Carts.

http://www.vegascarts.com/23hp-625cc...xtkit-beta.htm

http://www.vegascarts.com/predator-2...txtkit-v-p.htm

There are other options as well. Check out the modified section in the forum for more threads to wet your appetite.

Thanks Rooster, but I guess before I even think about the engine I need figure out this rear lift kit. I bought this kit for an electric cart, mine is gas but read on here that the only difference is that the shock mount plate needs modified. After reading the directions and watching this video (starting at 12:30) a dozen times, something is not right. I can not figure out how it all goes back together. Any help is appreciated.

Another question, do you guys keep the stock wheel wells after installing a rear lift and/or bigger tires?

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ajb3xSOGAGs

[Rooster59]

1. If you have the right offset wheels for your lifted cart you shouldn't have a problem with tires rubbing on a TXT.

2. The axle seats for the electric carts are different than gas. That is why they specify gas or electric. You probably received square ubolts because there is an axle bracket welded to the bottom of the electric axles. Gas axles don't have that. You need round ubolts and spring saddles to go between the axle and springs. Those square shaped "C" brackets you show on the floor would bolt to the electric axle brackets welded to the bottom of the electric axles. See the pics in the links below.

http://www.americanliftkits.com/cont...%20UPDATED.pdf

http://www.americanliftkits.com/cont...%20UPDATED.pdf

[Ndawg12]

Originally Posted by Rooster59

1. If you have the right offset wheels for your lifted cart you shouldn't have a problem with tires rubbing on a TXT.

2. The axle seats for the electric carts are different than gas. That is why they specify gas or electric. You probably received square ubolts because there is an axle bracket welded to the bottom of the electric axles. Gas axles don't have that. You need round ubolts and spring saddles to go between the axle and springs. Those square shaped "C" brackets you show on the floor would bolt to the electric axle brackets welded to the bottom of the electric axles. See the pics in the links below.

http://www.americanliftkits.com/cont...%20UPDATED.pdf

http://www.americanliftkits.com/cont...%20UPDATED.pdf

Ok, so it looks like I can throw away that part of the lift I think I can fab the spring saddles. Is the alignment pin on the axle still used? My lift kit is supposed to be 6", does anyone know the height of the rear spring saddle (or distance from top of axle to the bottom of the leaf spring) for a 6" lift? Or should I wait and get it all put back together and then figure out how much the rear needs raised?

[Rooster59]

Which mfr's kit did you buy? If it is an All Sports I can tell you how tall the axle seats are. If it is an All Sports you might call them about swapping parts or for the correct parts.