1987 ezgo with a robin 244cc motor

[crawdad9800]

i have recently did a complete rebiuld on the motor and it was running fine for about a half hour or so and died,,,,,it has got good compression and has spark....i replaced the fuel pump thinking that was the problem...and it was not...the cart will not fire can anyone please help ?????

[pick]

Do you have fuel delivery for sure? Did you replace fuel filter also? If the answer is yes to the above, you probably need help from BrewCityMusic or Dave Box. They are real knowledgeable on this model cart & have done engine rebuilds. They both have helped me a bunch.

[Dave Box]

You say that you did a complete rebuild. Does this mean that you split the crankcase and replaced the bearings or did you just rebuild the top half? The reason I ask is that in addition to fuel, compression and a spark a two cycle engine also needs crankcase pressure. The 2pg is remarkably intolerant of air leaks and your symptoms sound like something has let go. If you stripped it right down maybe the crankcase halves have sprung a leak. Anyway here are a couple of tests and depending on the results we will track this down and get your 2pg roaring again. (BTW I am assuming that you still have a spark, please double check before starting this)

First jack up the rear or remove the drive belt. Now remove the fuel line to the carburetor and point it into a jar. Now get a friend to crank the engine. You should see a powerful spurting jet of fuel, not a trickle, not a dribble, we should see about a fluid ounce per pulse. Reconnect the line.
Now remove the air filter and using a turkey baster or similar extract some of the fuel from the jar and squirt it directly into the air intake. Now crank the engine. Does it try to start? Backfire? Kick over? Anything?

All 2 cycle engines suffer from blocked mufflers eventually especially those run with too much oil. I don't think that this is the case here as this generally only happens when the engine is hot but if you wanted to perform a simple test just loosen the bolts between the muffler and the exhaust pipe to create a half inch gap. Now try to start the engine.

If you would like to try these things and report back we can take it from there.

Dave

[crawdad9800]

Originally Posted by Dave Box

You say that you did a complete rebuild. Does this mean that you split the crankcase and replaced the bearings or did you just rebuild the top half? The reason I ask is that in addition to fuel, compression and a spark a two cycle engine also needs crankcase pressure. The 2pg is remarkably intolerant of air leaks and your symptoms sound like something has let go. If you stripped it right down maybe the crankcase halves have sprung a leak. Anyway here are a couple of tests and depending on the results we will track this down and get your 2pg roaring again. (BTW I am assuming that you still have a spark, please double check before starting this)

First jack up the rear or remove the drive belt. Now remove the fuel line to the carburetor and point it into a jar. Now get a friend to crank the engine. You should see a powerful spurting jet of fuel, not a trickle, not a dribble, we should see about a fluid ounce per pulse. Reconnect the line.
Now remove the air filter and using a turkey baster or similar extract some of the fuel from the jar and squirt it directly into the air intake. Now crank the engine. Does it try to start? Backfire? Kick over? Anything?

All 2 cycle engines suffer from blocked mufflers eventually especially those run with too much oil. I don't think that this is the case here as this generally only happens when the engine is hot but if you wanted to perform a simple test just loosen the bolts between the muffler and the exhaust pipe to create a half inch gap. Now try to start the engine.

If you would like to try these things and report back we can take it from there.

Dave

thanks dave i have performed the tests u told me 2...and i have no fuel pumping out of the line to the carberator.....i also tried putting fuel directly into the intake and still can not get any fire or backfire ..i also cracked the mufler just incase that was the problem.....i was driving the cart when it died on me for about 2 miles when it just quit.....the seals are intact and solid around the crank.........i did put a new fuel pump on it today...not to say i did not get a bad one......

[crawdad9800]

Hello I am looking for a way to check the cranks pressure.......and if for some reason would that cause the fuel pump to work or engine to fire????? Please help

[Dave Box]

Crankcase pressure does two things for your engine. The first is to activate the fuel pump, the second is to move the gasoil from the crankcase to the cylinder. Your fuel pump is not working and your engine does not fire when you squirt fuel into the intake. I have to say that this is a pretty good indicator of a lack of pressure. The car did run at one stage so you did at one time have pressure. It is very unlikely that you have a hole in the crankcase. It is possible (but again unlikely) that you have a defective reed valve. It is quite possible that one or both crankcase seals have failed or fallen out.

It is not too hard to check the integrity of the reed valve and at least you can do this with the engine in. You can just about see the rear seal with the engine in and if it has slipped out you may even find it resting next to the clutch. The front seal is more difficult as it is hidden behind the flywheel. If you pulled the flywheel when you rebuilt the engine it will not be on too tight and you can probably remove it with the engine in situ and with the aid of a mirror and a flashlight inspect the seal.

If it is a popped seal then I recommend that a) you fit new seals and not try to reuse the old ones b) use a little Loctite bearing seal on the mating surfaces and a generous amount of 2 cycle oil on the rubber part of the seal.

Of course it is hard to make a diagnosis by remote control. It is entirely possible that I am on the wrong track so if anyone else wants to chime in ..........

Dave

[GoTeeMan]

Have we verified spark delivery? Even with no/reduced crankcase pressure you should get a burp when you spray fuel into the carb if there is spark, shouldn't ya?

Were you spraying the fuel into the carb with the engine turning over and no choke?

If it turns out to be a reed I have one......just FYI.....got a head too. I went 3PG so I don't need the parts.

Make sure the fuel filter isn't plugged (take it off and blow through it), fuel delivery at the carb can be reduced if the filter is plugged. Heck drop a rubber hose in the tank and plug it in to the fuel pump just to eliminate all aspects of the fuel delivery system.

[ezgochuck]

Iam not sure on the problem I know you want to use the proper fuel filter too. I used one of the cheap inline filters from the farm store cart would run about 3 minutes and bog down and die but would fire up in a couple of minutes. If you have case problems I have complete case with reeds, and flywheel and points just sitting around