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Old 04-26-2011, 09:56 PM   #21
MIKEPEER
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Default Re: speed controler question

yes it's a continuous POT...i dont understand how i can check with 2 different meters and get the proper reading but still get half voltage. i went to radio shack and picked up a 4.7k resistor. i removed the yellow wire from the speed contoller and installed the resistor. the cart now has an output voltage of around 35. so i'm back to the pot not working, but why am i getting a 6k reading and half voltage....who knows. so now my question where can i find the right pot....the only one i have seen so far appears to have a grey 3 pin triangle shaped deutsch connector and mine has a 3 pin round connector?
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Old 04-27-2011, 08:54 AM   #22
GLEEMO
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Default Re: speed controler question

6k reading is normal, half voltage is not .
IM TahoeDawgZ71 , he will tell U ASAP.

Let us know what he says ?
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Old 04-27-2011, 10:24 PM   #23
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Default Re: speed controler question

So i give it one more try tonight i take the POT off of the bad cart and hook it up to a cart that i know works.....and it works just fine. so now i'm really scratching my head because i've tried another speed controller on the bad cart and same result, 26v. if i move the POT to the good cart it works just fine. If i remove the yellow wire from the controller and place a jumper from the B+ on the controller to the spade that should have the yellow wire i get full voltage to the motor. i run a new wire and bypass the yellow wire and same result. makes no sense to me...other then the limit switch on the f/r switch nothing else limits the speed right?
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Old 04-28-2011, 09:21 AM   #24
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The micro switch on the F/R lever that the throttle wire runs through has the normally closed circuit add a resistor in series with the throttle... So on a 5K-0 throttle this gives you half speed... The switch only makes when the lever is in the F position.. When the switch closes... It bypasses the resistor... Allowing the cart to have full speed. Are you sure the switch is working properly? Is there corrosion causing an abnormally high resistance condition?

What about poor or loose battery cable connections on the F/R switch.. Or anywhere along the line? If there where a loose, corroded or poorly crimped wire.. It would show full voltage until there was a high current demand.. And then the high resistance would cause the voltage to drop. An indicator of this would be an abnormally hot wire or terminal after running the cart.


Edit: I see that you get full power when you short the throttle at the controller. So ignore my comment about the battery wires. I would focus on the throttle wires. Check at the plug by the pot box. Check at the switch. You might try running two wires directly from the controller to the pot... Eliminating the wires in the cart. If it works. You know the wiring has a problem.

On the #3 switch. Disconnect the green and the white wires and connect them together. This will bypass the resistor thats on the black wire and will take the switch out of the loop.
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Old 04-28-2011, 08:15 PM   #25
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Default Re: speed controler question

also just for grins next time U have everything connected , check for Voltage leaking to ground , last -NEG battery to ground and 1 st +POS to ground.
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Old 04-28-2011, 09:06 PM   #26
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Default Re: speed controler question

Just got your PM.... I need more info on the car as there were two variations of series 48Volt cars in 1995. I need the serial number.
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Old 05-03-2011, 09:49 PM   #27
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Default Re: speed controler question

it's finally fixed.....after a few hours of trying everything i could think of, i decided to check the frame for stray voltage. sure enough i was getting stray voltage that would vary with the throttle. so i went and got a light so i could see if i could pull any amps through it. I had an led and it light up, i got 55 watt driving light and it blew it right away. so know i'm really confused because the only wires to the batteries are the posi and neg for 48v. i've unhooked all the lights and it doesn't have a voltage reducer. i unbolted the speed controller and solenoid, same result. so after checking and rechecking the wires for rub marks and finding nothing i decided that if it was looking for a path i would give it one and just "let the smoke out" of what ever was bleeding voltage to the frame. i touched a jumper from the neg terminal for the frame and the motor jumped, did that twice and the third the motor did nothing. now i get less then 10v to the frame and it won't light a bulb up, the cart works just fine now also. i'm not sure what it was or how that really "fixed" it. can a motor short to ground but still work ok? speed controller?
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Old 05-04-2011, 08:07 PM   #28
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Default Re: speed controler question

Have FUN

Are U sure U are not getting 10mV to ground now.
some time with auto meters we don't notice the switch fro Volts to mVolts .
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Old 05-04-2011, 09:09 PM   #29
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Default Re: speed controler question

it's not an auto range but i don't care if it's 10mv or 100v...i'm just glad it works...thanks for all the input too
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Old 05-05-2011, 11:01 AM   #30
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Default Re: speed controler question

Quote:
Originally Posted by MIKEPEER View Post
it's not an auto range but i don't care if it's 10mv or 100v...i'm just glad it works...thanks for all the input too
Hey I've watched this cart grow young again , GOOD JOB
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