Pds won't go

Dmaricle · 10-19-2012, 06:25 PM

Ok my ez go pds was being washed by my little bro and when I came up to the cart I noticed a slight humming while it was in neutral not thinking I got on it and started going and then it held wide open. I killed it and lifted the seat and unplugged the harness from the controlled but I think I was too late. Pushed it to the shop hopping it would dry out and work again but all it will do is click like it wants to engage and go but won't move. I am assuming the controller is shot so I am wondering if it could be something else or where is the best place to get one and should I go new or used. Thanks

scottyb · 10-19-2012, 08:45 PM

Hmm... exposed control harness. What type of controller is it?

Used controls are always a gamble because controller damage is accumulative... a used one may be great or it may work today and ...

Dmaricle · 10-19-2012, 09:28 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by scottyb

Hmm... exposed control harness. What type of controller is it?

Used controls are always a gamble because controller damage is accumulative... a used one may be great or it may work today and ...

its a stock controller and its exposed due to i had to change out a battery wire over a year ago and never put the cover on because i guess i got lazy and it never leaves the street and stays in the garage. any time i cleaned it i never got water near it but forgot to tell them to be carefull. is there a budget aftermarket controller or is stock cheapest. one shop quoted me 350 for a pull off of a new cart and them install it. is that a good deal or should i just order one and install it myself. thanks

JohnnieB · 10-20-2012, 06:08 AM

After taking a peek at your other threads, I see you've got either a 2006 or a 2007 TXT PDS that is lifted and has tall tires, so this might be a good time to upgrade to an aftermarket controller that is more suited to turning those big tires. Of course, I'd make sure the controller is toast before I replaced it.

If money is really tight (and whose isn't these days), FSIP, a site sponsor, has remanufactured Curtis 1206MX 350A controllers you and your Lil' helper can install for about $100 less than your local dealer quoted. I also wonder about the dealer pulling it from a NEW PDS cart since new PDS carts are 48V.

Dmaricle · 10-20-2012, 11:34 AM

Thanks a lot johnnie. I think it's a 2007 pds and yes money is always tight lol. I did the beep test and it coded out as controller failed. Is this the controller you feel I should get http://fsip.workxpress.com/page/link...02eced5f&wxm=1

Dmaricle · 10-20-2012, 10:45 PM

is there another way to test the controller to see if its fried?

JohnnieB · 10-21-2012, 09:47 AM

If you haven't already done so, Download the Owner, Service and Parts manuals from the Stickies.
They are the three .pdf file in this one:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...g-manuals.html

If the solenoid is clicking, You only have to verify the High current circuit is complete (Closed loop), the Field winding circuit is complete and the throttle is telling the controller to pass Amps.

Lift rear wheels off ground and put on jackstands so the half ton cart doesn't take off unexpectedly and run over someone or something.

With following conditions:
Charger plug disconnected from cart.
Run/Tow = RUN
Keyswithch = ON
F/R = F

Connect DVM between F1 and F2 terminals on controller.
Press throttle to floor.
Voltage should be 2.7V +/- 0.5V

Connect DVM between B- and A1 terminal on controller.
Press pedal until solenoid first clicks.
Voltage should be full battery pack voltage.
Slowly press pedal to floor.
Voltage should smoothly decrease to zero, or very close to it.

Leave DVM lead connected to B- terminal on controller and measure voltage at J4 Pin-4.
Should be 15.0V +/- 1.0V
Move DVM lead from J4 Pin-4 to J4 Pin-3.
Press pedal until solenoid first clicks.
Voltage should be 1.0V +/- 0.3V
Slowly press pedal to floor.
Voltage should smoothly increase to 2.9V +/- 0.4V

Here is a PDS schematic.

------------
The link you posted just takes me to the sign-in page.

Give FSIP a call and tell them the size of the tire you are running and get their recommendations.
Personally, because a stock type PDS controller probably won't last too long turning big tire, I'd go with something like the 808 package on this web-page.
http://www.cartsunlimited.net/Custom_Options.html

Dmaricle · 10-21-2012, 12:30 PM

Connect DVM between F1 and F2 terminals on controller.
Press throttle to floor.
Voltage should be 2.7V +/- 0.5Vusing the dcv 200 setting it reads 21.6 and then falls to 00.9

Connect DVM between B- and A1 terminal on controller.
Press pedal until solenoid first clicks.
Voltage should be full battery pack voltage.
Slowly press pedal to floor.
Voltage should smoothly decrease to zero, or very close to it.voltage shows 37.3 before it clicks and then goes to 37.9 when pressed all the way to the floor

Leave DVM lead connected to B- terminal on controller and measure voltage at J4 Pin-4.= 14.6
Should be 15.0V +/- 1.0V
Move DVM lead from J4 Pin-4 to J4 Pin-3.
Press pedal until solenoid first clicks.
Voltage should be 1.0V +/- 0.3V=1.0v
Slowly press pedal to floor.
Voltage should smoothly increase to 2.9V +/- 0.4V=2.8v

JohnnieB · 10-21-2012, 12:55 PM

Voltage should be 2.7V +/- 0.5Vusing the dcv 200 setting it reads 21.6 and then falls to 00.9
Not right, but reads something, so field windings are probably okay and controller is bad.

Voltage should smoothly decrease to zero, or very close to it.voltage shows 37.3 before it clicks and then goes to 37.9 when pressed all the way to the floor
The voltage read before the solenoid clicks is due to the resistor across the solenoid contacts, however, staying at full battery pack voltage with pedal on floor indicates the controller isn't passing current.

Press pedal until solenoid first clicks.
Voltage should be 1.0V +/- 0.3V=1.0v
Slowly press pedal to floor.
Voltage should smoothly increase to 2.9V +/- 0.4V=2.8v

The ITS is telling the controller to pass current, but it isn't, so the controller is bad.

Given those voltage reading, I'd say the controller most likely need to be replaced.

scottyb · 10-21-2012, 01:29 PM

I had a similar experience with a PDS control. I had a chassis up and running, no cover on the control, left it outside and got a little unexpected rain. Controller fried.

There is a cover on the stock control for a reason.

10-19-2012, 06:25 PM	#1
Dmaricle Not Yet Wild Join Date: Dec 2011 Posts: 10	Pds won't go Ok my ez go pds was being washed by my little bro and when I came up to the cart I noticed a slight humming while it was in neutral not thinking I got on it and started going and then it held wide open. I killed it and lifted the seat and unplugged the harness from the controlled but I think I was too late. Pushed it to the shop hopping it would dry out and work again but all it will do is click like it wants to engage and go but won't move. I am assuming the controller is shot so I am wondering if it could be something else or where is the best place to get one and should I go new or used. Thanks
Dmaricle Not Yet Wild Join Date: Dec 2011 Posts: 10

10-19-2012, 08:45 PM	#2
scottyb Happy Carting Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 73,410	Re: Pds won't go Hmm... exposed control harness. What type of controller is it? Used controls are always a gamble because controller damage is accumulative... a used one may be great or it may work today and ...

10-20-2012, 06:08 AM	#4
JohnnieB Techno-Nerd Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: West Virginia Posts: 19,654	Re: Pds won't go After taking a peek at your other threads, I see you've got either a 2006 or a 2007 TXT PDS that is lifted and has tall tires, so this might be a good time to upgrade to an aftermarket controller that is more suited to turning those big tires. Of course, I'd make sure the controller is toast before I replaced it. If money is really tight (and whose isn't these days), FSIP, a site sponsor, has remanufactured Curtis 1206MX 350A controllers you and your Lil' helper can install for about $100 less than your local dealer quoted. I also wonder about the dealer pulling it from a NEW PDS cart since new PDS carts are 48V.

10-20-2012, 11:34 AM	#5
Dmaricle Not Yet Wild Join Date: Dec 2011 Posts: 10	Re: Pds won't go Thanks a lot johnnie. I think it's a 2007 pds and yes money is always tight lol. I did the beep test and it coded out as controller failed. Is this the controller you feel I should get http://fsip.workxpress.com/page/link...02eced5f&wxm=1
Dmaricle Not Yet Wild Join Date: Dec 2011 Posts: 10

10-20-2012, 10:45 PM	#6
Dmaricle Not Yet Wild Join Date: Dec 2011 Posts: 10	Re: Pds won't go is there another way to test the controller to see if its fried?
Dmaricle Not Yet Wild Join Date: Dec 2011 Posts: 10

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10-21-2012, 12:30 PM	#8
Dmaricle Not Yet Wild Join Date: Dec 2011 Posts: 10	Re: Pds won't go Connect DVM between F1 and F2 terminals on controller. Press throttle to floor. Voltage should be 2.7V +/- 0.5Vusing the dcv 200 setting it reads 21.6 and then falls to 00.9 Connect DVM between B- and A1 terminal on controller. Press pedal until solenoid first clicks. Voltage should be full battery pack voltage. Slowly press pedal to floor. Voltage should smoothly decrease to zero, or very close to it.voltage shows 37.3 before it clicks and then goes to 37.9 when pressed all the way to the floor Leave DVM lead connected to B- terminal on controller and measure voltage at J4 Pin-4.= 14.6 Should be 15.0V +/- 1.0V Move DVM lead from J4 Pin-4 to J4 Pin-3. Press pedal until solenoid first clicks. Voltage should be 1.0V +/- 0.3V=1.0v Slowly press pedal to floor. Voltage should smoothly increase to 2.9V +/- 0.4V=2.8v
Dmaricle Not Yet Wild Join Date: Dec 2011 Posts: 10

10-21-2012, 12:55 PM	#9
JohnnieB Techno-Nerd Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: West Virginia Posts: 19,654	Re: Pds won't go Voltage should be 2.7V +/- 0.5Vusing the dcv 200 setting it reads 21.6 and then falls to 00.9 Not right, but reads something, so field windings are probably okay and controller is bad. Voltage should smoothly decrease to zero, or very close to it.voltage shows 37.3 before it clicks and then goes to 37.9 when pressed all the way to the floor The voltage read before the solenoid clicks is due to the resistor across the solenoid contacts, however, staying at full battery pack voltage with pedal on floor indicates the controller isn't passing current. Press pedal until solenoid first clicks. Voltage should be 1.0V +/- 0.3V=1.0v Slowly press pedal to floor. Voltage should smoothly increase to 2.9V +/- 0.4V=2.8v The ITS is telling the controller to pass current, but it isn't, so the controller is bad. Given those voltage reading, I'd say the controller most likely need to be replaced.

10-21-2012, 01:29 PM	#10
scottyb Happy Carting Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Southern California Posts: 73,410	Re: Pds won't go I had a similar experience with a PDS control. I had a chassis up and running, no cover on the control, left it outside and got a little unexpected rain. Controller fried. There is a cover on the stock control for a reason.