Bad MCOR or something else?

[MC1]

Checked the voltage at the jumper. 48v at the paperclip.

The resistance seems to be good.

Should there be continuity within the MCOR at the 2plug pins. Not showing any continuity at those pins.

[MC1]

Did a complete diagnosis using this write up. Appears my MCOR is fine. Getting the volt ranges a resistance. But soleniod still does not "click" on at all.

Any way to test a controller?

[Sergio]

You test the controller by verifying it has all the inputs it needs in order to operate.

You already tested the MCOR side of the controller.

If the Reverse buzzer sounds when You put the FNR in reverse, that pretty much tests everything else needed by the controller to activate the solenoid.

Set Your meter to 200vDC and place the probes on the solenoid small posts.

You should get 48v when the pedal is pressed, if not, the Controller is bad.

[MC1]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Set Your meter to 200vDC and place the probes on the solenoid small posts.

You should get 48v when the pedal is pressed, if not, the Controller is bad.

No volt reading when pedal is pushed. Looks like a bad controller.

[scottyb]

Which side of the solenoid activation circuit is missing at the solenoid small posts when you press the gas?

[MC1]

Originally Posted by scottyb

Which side of the solenoid activation circuit is missing at the solenoid small posts when you press the gas?

I was just putting the positive probe on one post, negative on the other. No volt reading when pedal is pushed.

[MC1]

Ending up getting my controller rebuilt. There is a local place (golframa) that rebuilds them for around $150. They found a bad transmitter in the controller and are sending it back to me today. So hopefully that will get it running.

Since I had just bought a new solenoid for this cart, really did not want to look at doing the controller/solenoid upgrade $$$-and eat the cost of a new solenoid.

If it all checks out and I get the cart street legal with a title, will likely doe the upgrade and sell the original controller, OBC and solenoid

[Sergio]

Please Check the diode on the Solenoid or You may blow the solenoid activation transistor in the repaired controller.

Make sure the end of the diode with the stripe is towards the Light Blue wire that gets +48v from the key switch.

Also, disconnect one side of the diode and test it with the diode check function on your meter.

[MC1]

Originally Posted by Sergio

Please Check the diode on the Solenoid or You may blow the solenoid activation transistor in the repaired controller.

Make sure the end of the diode with the stripe is towards the Light Blue wire that gets +48v from the key switch.

Also, disconnect one side of the diode and test it with the diode check function on your meter.

I'll double check, but I'm pretty sure I have it in correctly as it seemed pretty straight forward. Single red wire to the Soleniod, Blue to the tow switch, red goes to the 6-pin connector to the OBC.

[Sergio]

That was not the diode I am talking about, I am not even sure that diode is really needed in your setup, but in either case it will not cause any problems.

There is, or should be, a diode installed across Your solenoid small posts.

If that diode is not there or it has failed opened, the transistor inside the controller will get a high voltage spike every time the solenoid "opens" and it will eventually fail.

If the diode is installed backwards, it will take the transistor inside the controller out the first time You turn the key switch ON.

Other than an accidental short while performing a test on the Solenoid, it is unusual for the activation transistor in the controller to fail unless it is related to the diode on the solenoid coil.