EZGO TXT information requested

[kernal]

What is the battery pack voltage? If you look at the chart, if the voltage is below 35v might not be enough to power the motor while its in the cart.

Transmission is direct drive with an open differential. No clutches etc. Motor is always in gear. Forward/reverse shifting is done electrically with the lever by your right knee.

[cptaylor]

Possible, the batteries have set up for years. They won't hold a full charge for long. But.... and this is my thinking, which could be wrong, but the problem was there prior and I figured that they would at least turn the wheels while jacked up, not on the ground.\

[cptaylor]

Well, was making good progress and..... now nothing. For whatever reason the solenoid will not engage. It's not getting the voltage to it to engage. The microswitch at the pedal is working. No idea how to check the black object there (ITS?). It seems to have no reading, voltage or resistance, when I press the pedal and the rod goes through it.
The key switch is working.

I'm trying to use the diagnostic here but I don't think it goes for for mine, I don't have a "6 pin connector".

Any suggestions?

[scottyb]

hey CP, sorry I was away orig problem seems to be in the high amperage delivery system, I suspect a bad contact in the F&R if the cables are all good.

Follow solenoid activation cart to sort out secondary problem

[cptaylor]

No need to apologize, I really do appreciate everyone's input and help on this.
The schematics pretty simple, I'll have figure out how to check the F&R "switch" to determine if it's a bad contact.

a few questions:

I noticed across the solenoid, it shows a resistor. Is there suppose to be a physical resistor?

Also, the diode.... Mine doesn't appear to have one. Diodes across coils are usually to suppress voltage spikes on coils. Not really required for operation, more for protection of other circuitry. I can add at some point, but the 5W resistor has me puzzled.

The "Black box".... What's that called and how do I determine if there are any problems with it.

The 'ITS".....is this a coil or an electronic component? I read on how to determine if its good or bad but....that's an expensive component, and at this point I would like to make absolutely sure that something is bad before replacing.
I figured if it were a coil I could read resistance, if it were an electronic component, say some type of semiconductor, I could check another way. But I've found nothing that says what it actually it. Maybe it doesn't matter, I just like to know what each device is and how it works......I'm an EET.

[rib33024]

two studs in the motor turned/rotate? this could be a problem. And battery pack volts would help

Originally Posted by cptaylor

I disconnected the batteries from the system so no power is going to anywhere.

I then labeled and removed the wires to the motor. Mine are marked "S2 and A2 from the top, and S1 and A1 on the bottom.

I check resistance between S1 and S2 and read less then 1 Ohm. I did the same for A1 and A2 and read less than 1 Ohm. I then S1 to A1 and A2 and read very high megaohms (basically, open). did the same between S2 to A1 and A2 and again, very high resistance (open).

I am assuming that S1 and S2 on mine are the same as F1 and F2 from the ezgo diagnostics page:
http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...agnostics.html

So the motor windings seems good. Only thing I did not like is while I was removing the wires, I notice the studs themselves would rotate on two of the terminals. So I'll have to keep that in mind on the motor.

What else should I check, voltage at the motor while pressing the pedal?
Again, it seems the motor has some type of gearbox built on the end, is this correct? Cold there be a problem in there?

[cptaylor]

I was able to tighten the lugs down so it doesn't turn. I agree with you on the red though, that should not move and would most likely cause my original problem. I wanted to remove the motor itself from the tranny and have it rebuilt, but I can,t get the motor to slide off. I got concerned that I might damage the aluminum cast housing of the tranny so stopped. I hooked the wires back up (correctly) and figured I'd try and see if tightening the loose lugs helped. I still had resistance readings on S1 to S2 and A1 to A2. My thinking was (is) that in the least, I would still be where I started. But now, when I press the pedal, nothing happens. My voltage will hold at around 34 to 35 volts. Not ideal in any way but I feel (possibly wrong) that that should be enough to turn the tires with it off the ground. So, at the point trying to determine what does what to engage solenoid. No voltage present on solenoid (coil ) when pedal is pressed.
The F&R, I take from the schematic and earlier statement that it,s a switch also?

[cptaylor]

Made some progress. Got it back to where it would engage solenoid. Tires WILL run in forward direction with it off the ground.

Now, according to the schematic, there is a diode across the coil of the solenoid and also a resistor across the contacts. Where are these located, or, to be more precise, is this a board or something or individual parts? I do not see on mine but I could be overlooking.

I'm going through making a list of everything I need to have replaced/repaired and would like to get it right. Someone has done some clever "workarounds" and rewiring, I intend to put it back right. The cart will need to go to the shop to have the motor removed and replaced unless someone knows a secret to removing it that they would care to share. Therein is the problem, I've no way of loading/hauling this thing anywhere to have it serviced. I can take parts to somewhere, but no trailer to haul the entire thing. So removing the motor and taking it to be rebuilt would be easier for me than taking the cart in and having them do it.


MicroSwitch 4....what does it do? Mine is either shorted or something is keeping it closed, but it reads 0 ohms regardless. I've got it disconnected for now, I am assuming it has something to do with reverse, confirm?