surging issues

[Springbok]

End shafts.

[FlatlanderKS]

OK I have measured from the bolts on the two pullies. It is 9 and 5/8 between the two. I am going to replace the fuel and vacuum lines this weekend and look for any other old rubber lines that need replaced. I will run it around see if it still surges. Is there any type of in tank cleaner recommended? Only other thing I could think that would make it surge if something in the throttle control box. I have not opened that up to see how it works. Wish me luck Guy's

[meimk]

I'm going to throw out some other possibilities. The drive clutch on a club car has an idle bearing around the shaft between those plates. When the starter is first cranking the belt should be laying on the bearing and be able to sit still while the plates of the drive clutch spin past it - just barely clearing the belt. If the belt is caught tight between the sheaves of the clutch while "at rest" it means the clutch is not opening all the way as it should. It would be a clutch issue, not a belt issue. Then the "surging" may be the RPM limiter kicking in. You say it acts up at full throttle but not so much at half throttle? Try disconnecting the RPM limiter ground wire and see if your surging up and down smooth's out. The limiter is the black plastic box right above the oil drain plug. The ground lead for it is a brown wire the has a wire eyelet terminal under one of the mounting bolts that holds the limiter in place. Unbolt that wire and tape it or what ever to keep it from touching off to ground while you test it. Just be aware of the engine speed while you are running it that way. Depending on how the governor is set it might allow you to over rev the motor so take it easy.

[FlatlanderKS]

Thanks meimk, I am going to take the belt off and check the slip bearing to see if it is turning free at rest.. if it is, that should tell me if its ok right? Also I'm going to replace all the Fuel and vacuum lines as they are all stiff and hard. Put it back together and see if that helps. If the bearing is rough or frozen, pull the pulley and replace? Will I need a puller for that or just a good rubber? If no success there I'll look at the limiter. Thanks again for your Help.

[meimk]

Keep in mind the belt gets tight by the sides of the belt in contact with those mostly vertical plates. If the clutch doesn't open up all the way at rest, the belt won't even come in contact with the idle bearing.

[FlatlanderKS]

thanks meimk, got all fuel and vac lines replaced. You are correct in that the clutch is not opening up totally, I taped it with an ax handle and rubber hammer and it went back apart. the belt was loose. I drove it around for a while and it again didn't want to slide back to the rest position. The cart is still surging but have not had time to check the limiter.
do I need to pull the pulley to see whats up? Any suggestions?

[meimk]

The clutch could be worn and ready for a rebuild, but try cleaning it out first. It's best to take it off and open it up, but sometimes you can "cheat" a bit without removing or opening it up.
Remove the drive belt s you can freely push the outer (moving) sheave inward. Try some thing like brake cleaner to spray into the narrow opening between that outer sheave and the cover. Finally use compressed air (blow gun?) to dry it & blow out whatever debris may have been loosened up. DO NOT try to lubricate it in there, it would only cause dust & dirt to clump up even more. If that doesn't help it then it's time to take it off and apart & replace the worn parts.

[FlatlanderKS]

Thought about the clean out first, what do you think about high pressure water after a good cleaner then blow it out. Not today thou to cold for water treatment. I would rather not take it off but if necessary I will be buying the correct tool. Thanks for your help, it really has helped. I have worked on my 95 CC electric but this gas one is still a mystery. I don't need this till summer time as it will be my new camping buggie. Where do you buy your parts?

[meimk]

I work at a shop where we use several different suppliers, but you can find help from several of the site sponsors. Some kind of specialize in Electric's, but many do carry parts for gas carts too. For instance: a quick check confirmed both DIY Golf Cart & East Coast Custom carry the clutch puller bolt.

[FlatlanderKS]

In reading about these things, it appears that a couple of different motor manufactures were used in the CC from my era of cart. Does my serial number tell me? AG9925-77-1996
or do I look somewhere on the motor. Thanks