Another idea on brake lights ...

[sho305]

You could drill a hole in the pedal there and bolt a tab on, but having a welder I know how easy it is to use it lol.

Really cool mod thanks for sharing! Thinking I will have to do this soon to ride the roads here, and need to start shopping for rear lights.

Hey maybe you can sell the design to Pachanga and he can produce kits.....

[OgreTX]

Got a grand kid's birthday party this afternoon. But when I get home, I'll measure and draw a good template and post it up, so everybody doesn't have to go through the fit, grind, fit, cut, fit, drill, fit, etc. routine. I'll provide the metal thickness, and reasons, in addition to some things to think about when bending and installing.

My original sketch got modified here and there, and I ground a little to get a few things better, so the sketch is useless.

I thought about drilling and tapping a hole in the brake pedal, but decided that the welded tab doesn't have to be removed anyway. If it needs to go, it's no problem cutting and grinding it away with no damage to the brake pedal.

Ogre

[1989Marathon]

Nice setup! Have you given any thought to adding a second switch that opens up when the parking brake is set? That way the brake lights won't be on when it is set. I did that to my cart.

[pachanga90]

Hey!!!I've got enough on my plate Sho!!!Its' a nice clean setup,you could sell them pretty easily i'd bet.Make it a bolt-on,and people will beat your e-mail to death!!

[OgreTX]

Ok, I used 16 gauge metal stock. A small 6"X12" at Lowe's or Home Depot is fairly inexpensive. Might be able to get a smaller piece. The whole bracket plus the welded tab is only about 4" X 2". Not looking for any money (or more work). 16 gauge is plenty strong since there is very little pressure on any part to open and close the switch.

The jpg drawing below is what I did. The shaded area can probably be disposed, but I left it in case I needed to tack weld it to the brake housing for more rigidity. I left the piece stuck over the top of the ridge by the brake pedal (pic 2 above) to add some "pre-tension" to the bend, so that when I tightened down the quarter inch bolt, it keeps the switch position parallel to the brake hinge (or perpendicular to the welded tab).

HTH

Ogre

BTW, Marathon, a little more explanation, please. This setup closes the circuit to the brake lights when the brake pedal is pushed. Not sure what other switch I could place to turn the brake lights out without defeating the brake lights on when the brake pedal is depressed.

[1989Marathon]

The normally open brake light switch is fed from a normally closed switch. The normally closed switch opens when the parking brake is set. That way it kills power to the brake lights.