Digital Battery Meter

[Camaro69]

Looking to swap out my current yellow idiot light for a digital battery meter for my 2018 Precedent 48v.

Would this be an easy swap with the existing wires?

https://www.cartsunlimited.net/battery-meters.html

[Tom47]

A good way to hook this up is one wire directly to your pack negative and the other wire on the positive in or out of your key switch.

If you hook it up on the wire going TO the key switch from the Tow/Run, the meter will be powered whenever the Tow/Run. This is ideal so you can view the voltage anytime even when it is charging. There is essentially no battery drain leaving it on.

If you hook it up to the wire going FROM the key switch, it will turn off with the key switch.

This is a good wire to use to hook it up. You can route one length from the front to the battery pack negative. Use the black wire for that and ignore the red wire . Use another piece to run to the key switch. Use the red wire for that and ignore the black wire. 10 feet total should do it.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwir...3199/204725192

[CP241]

To add: no you can’t use the existing wires to the dummy light. That light only does anything when the OBC tells it to do something. (Like when OBC wakes up, will flash when battery is getting low, etc). You’ll want to wire it as said above.

Do note that if you use the key switch for the power so it only turns on when the key is turned on, it’s perfectly normal for the gauge to read a few tenths lower than what it would read if you hook it directly to the battery pack.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by CP241

To add: no you can’t use the existing wires to the dummy light. That light only does anything when the OBC tells it to do something. (Like when OBC wakes up, will flash when battery is getting low, etc). You’ll want to wire it as said above.

Do note that if you use the key switch for the power so it only turns on when the key is turned on, it’s perfectly normal for the gauge to read a few tenths lower than what it would read if you hook it directly to the battery pack.

You're so right, CP241.

I ran mine directly to the pack supplied 48 volt terminal bus. This bus has both the positive and negative switched with a double pole single throw switch. I have a 48 volt amber strobe connected here too.

But I hesitate to recommend that to someone who may not be sure about fusing or switching or taking extra care in connecting it. I usually recommend hooking up the positive after the run/tow switch so the power to it can be disconnected.

I use the old FLA connected meter along with the shunt connected meter on my lithium battery. When I switch it on, both the strobe and the meter come on. That way if the meter is not lit, I remember to turn the strobe on!

[CP241]

Originally Posted by Tom47

You're so right, CP241.

I ran mine directly to the pack supplied 48 volt terminal bus. This bus has both the positive and negative switched with a double pole single throw switch. I have a 48 volt amber strobe connected here too.

But I hesitate to recommend that to someone who may not be sure about fusing or switching or taking extra care in connecting it. I usually recommend hooking up the positive after the run/tow switch so the power to it can be disconnected.

I use the old FLA connected meter along with the shunt connected meter on my lithium battery. When I switch it on, both the strobe and the meter come on. That way if the meter is not lit, I remember to turn the strobe on!

I do the same. I’ve got a regular voltage meter as well as the renogy shunt meter on mine. I’m not completely sold on the renogy meter TBH… I got pretty darned good at judging my state of charge by just driving my cart and getting to know what voltages I see at what point in time… particularly under load going up a hill… I know when it starts to drop below 49-50v it’s getting down there, and once it hits a certain point the voltage drops rather quickly. Fresh charge it doesn’t drop below about 51v under load. but I digress I’m off subject

Nothing wrong with hooking the voltage gauge up through the key switch. As long as they’re aware a couple tenths of a volt are lost between the pack going through the run/tow switch(prior to key switch), key switch, connections, adding in resistance from the input circuit of the controller, etc. most carts it’s between 0.2-0.3 volts dropped compared to the reading at the pack itself. So instead of a full charge being 50.9v it may read 50.6. Easily calculated by just comparing the dash gauge to what your fluke reads on the pack itself. Then just subtract mentally as you drive.

[lambo678]

qqq

[lambo678]

Originally Posted by Tom47

A good way to hook this up is one wire directly to your pack negative and the other wire on the positive in or out of your key switch.

If you hook it up on the wire going TO the key switch from the Tow/Run, the meter will be powered whenever the Tow/Run. This is ideal so you can view the voltage anytime even when it is charging. There is essentially no battery drain leaving it on.

If you hook it up to the wire going FROM the key switch, it will turn off with the key switch.

This is a good wire to use to hook it up. You can route one length from the front to the battery pack negative. Use the black wire for that and ignore the red wire . Use another piece to run to the key switch. Use the red wire for that and ignore the black wire. 10 feet total should do it.

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwir...3199/204725192

Do you have a diagram for this? For us beginners.

[lambo678]

moving this up

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by lambo678

Do you have a diagram for this? For us beginners.

To make it simpler for you, just hook the two leads on the meter to the red and black. Make black negative. Then route the wire under the cart along one of the harnesses to the battery pack and hook the black to pack negative and the red to pack positive with 5/16" red #18 ring terminals also available at HD.

The meter will be on 24/7 which is fine.

[lambo678]

Originally Posted by Tom47

To make it simpler for you, just hook the two leads on the meter to the red and black. Make black negative. Then route the wire under the cart along one of the harnesses to the battery pack and hook the black to pack negative and the red to pack positive with 5/16" red #18 ring terminals also available at HD.

The meter will be on 24/7 which is fine.

Thank you fine sir!