1996 ezgo dcs will not go

[Dave Barton]

I bought this cart after it quit running. put new batteries in, different fnr switch out of working cart, finally got it running with Alltrax controller out of the other said cart. However, it seemed the solenoid was always engaged as soon as the key was turned on. the cart would only go about 16 holes after a couple weeks, then quit one day on hole #2. The cart was towed in, I brought it home, checked wiring with diagram posted here, by passed reed switch, took red/white wire off positive post and moved to red / white in forward reverse harness. this made solenoid click in and out like its supposed to. Cart would still not run. tested all voltages and figured controller was bad. put FSIP controller in, but made the mistake of transferring all cables from Alltrax to factory controller and put m and b- cables on opposite. flipped run tow switch, stepped on pedal, and cart went and started welding posts. Removed cables as fast as I could, but fried 2 batteries. Amazingly, I replaced the 2 batteries and the cables, hooked controller up right, and the cart worked!. But, it only made it to the front yard, where it died and hasn't run since. Another controller, motor, solenoid, changed harness, still won't go. only bad reading is white wire from ITS which reads 13.95 and 14.2 with pedal pressed. I've put 3 different ITS in, all have same reading. I am stumped

[Dave Barton]

I guess I posted in the wrong place. any help would be appreciated

[rib33024]

Welcome to BGW

Moved to electric ezgo

[Dave Barton]

thank you Rib

[JohnnieB]

The ITS issue is likely to be caused by the in-line connector that connects the gray cable from the pedal box to the cart's wiring harness. The pack voltage going to the pedal switch has been known to end up on the ITS wires when the connector get corroded. Replace the connector with solder joints or butt splices and cover with shrink tubing.

Switching the B- and M- cables connected the battery pack directly across the armature, basically a dead short, so all the high current cables, connections and contacts as well as the motor brushes and commutator got hit mighty hard, but you've tried different motors and solenoids.

What is the pack voltage?
What is the voltage between B- and M- when the pedal is pushed just far enough to make solenoid click? (Ought to be the same as the pack voltage.)
What is the voltage between B- and M- with pedal on floor? (Ought to be 0V or close to it.)

[Dave Barton]

Thanks for the info, I will bypass the connector tonight and try. Pack voltage is 37.2 and is / was consistent across terminals but I will check that again also with pedal pressed and report.

[Dave Barton]

Pack voltage and all tests to solenoid and controller connections is 37.5
Voltage does not change with pedal on floor

[JohnnieB]

The voltage staying the same between B- and M- terminals when pedal is pushed to floor means either the controller is bad, or the throttle input to the controller is bad.

The throttle input is bad since it is way out of range, you've replaced the inline connector and you've tried several ITS sensor with the same results. 2/3 of the ITS circuit is inside the controller and you've eliminated the external 1/3, so the controller is bad.

Whatever you do, do not replace the stock DCS controller with another stock DCS controller. The Curtis 1206SX was a failed design. Recommend an Alltrax XCT48400-DCS, or larger.

[Dave Barton]

Thanks Johnnie B , I figured that was the most logical diagnosis. I was looking on Scott's website earlier, and I think I will get the XCT400

[scottyb]

The Alltrax XCT400 will give 35% more power and 22 mph with the stock tires. This is by far the best bang for the buck. Be sure to pair the controller with a 200 amp solenoid.