Help with Motor, Controller Compatibility

[barlow46]

Back to the controller I guess unless I have a wire misplaced somewhere. I have triple checked all wiring at this point. I have not checked the new F/R switch but power seems to be transferring through to controller/solenoid. I was unsure about seeing 12+V on the output side of the key switch with the key off but passed it off as power to head and tail lights but now that I think about it not sure that that should be. There is a separate harness behind the key switch with multiple connections.

[barlow46]

[IMG]Attached Thumbnails
1994 TXT series strange power!-its-voltage-1.jpg 1994 TXT series strange power!-its-voltage-2.jpg 1994 TXT series strange power!-its-voltage-3.jpg[/IMG]Attached Thumbnails
1994 TXT series strange power!-its-voltage-1.jpg 1994 TXT series strange power!-its-voltage-2.jpg 1994 TXT series strange power!-its-voltage-3.jpg

Using this test procedure, I found only the B- and pin #2 to be out of range. Voltage was 12.4 V with pedal depressed until solenoid clicks with selector in Forward. Would this out of range (high) be enough to consider the ITS system at fault?

All other test in this series were in range.

[yurtle]

Is this what you tried to attach?

[yurtle]

Oops, your post indicates a "-1.jpg, -2.jpg and -3.jpg". Perhaps these?

[barlow46]

Yes. Thanks Yurtle. I'm not real good with attachments on this site yet.

[yurtle]

While you wait for an answer, I'd go ahead and eliminate the Molex connector I mentioned before. Mine would sometimes just need to be wiggled to go, while other times I'd have to unplug and replug it. Every time it would eventually go, so I went and then forgot about it. I finally got tired and eliminated it. As long as your solenoid clicks, the two wires/Molex pins to the pedal microswitch are good. However, the Molex connector also has two wires/pins for the ITS. Others can tell you if having one or both of those wires bad, could cause the voltage results you're seeing.

[barlow46]

Thanks. Did eliminate the Molex connector earlier this afternoon. No change in anything. I did pull all the high volt connections from the controller and set my meter on continuity and went from each of the three lugs to ground but no continuity. I think i read that if the controller is bad, there will continuity from M-, B- or B+. Not sure if that is a good test or not but thought I would give it a try.

[barlow46]

Just did this test and found 37.6 between B- and M- before turning key on. After turning key on and pressing accelerator until solenoid clicks, I got 38.3. When I pressed accelerator all the way to the floor, there was no change in the 38.3.

"Measure between B- and M-. Should be full battery pack voltage when pedal is pushed just far enough to make solenoid click.

If you don't get full battery voltage, there is a bad high current cable, connection or contact.

If you do get full battery voltage, press pedal to floor and the voltage ought to decrease to 0V.

If it doesn't, either the throttle is bad or the controller is bad."

[yurtle]

Now check the voltages between B- and pins 1 and 2, according to the .jpgs above.

[yurtle]

I can't find the whole flow chart the three .jpgs are from, but here are a few things to look at, if you haven't already...

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...agnostics.html

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...e-testing.html