2009 ezgo rxv brake will not release

[Btenney]

Have a 09 rxv
*** brake won’t release I have the danaher programmer

Showing no error codes
The brake releases if I swap the plugs it will roll but when I try to run the cart it runs but not fast and soon as ya let off the gas you go thru the windsheild

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by Btenney

Have a 09 rxv
*** brake won’t release I have the danaher programmer

Showing no error codes
The brake releases if I swap the plugs it will roll but when I try to run the cart it runs but not fast and soon as ya let off the gas you go thru the windsheild

Replace the motor brake with an OEM replacement...

https://www.ebay.com/itm/301992451277

Great price as well.

[Btenney]

Already put a new brake on.

[cgtech]

New OEM brake? Where it was from? Aftermarket are definitely not equal to OEM brake. Overtightened the 3 installation bolts? It's easy to do, and usually destroys the brake before its corrected. Bolts just get tightened up enough to fully compress the lock washers.

[Btenney]

I would say brake but the brake releases when swapping plug 2 and 3 without issue

[cgtech]

Originally Posted by Btenney

I would say brake but the brake releases when swapping plug 2 and 3 without issue

You mean the way that applies 2x the voltage normally used, yeah I would say it should.

[BobBoyce]

Originally Posted by Btenney

I would say brake but the brake releases when swapping plug 2 and 3 without issue

That is not a valid reason to assume that the motor brake is ok and will work just because it unlocks when you swap the motor brake bypass jumpers... It is not the same as operating it with the controller. When swapping plugs, you are direct wiring the motor brake to the battery pack with a 10 amp fuse for a current limit. The controllers motor brake output cannot deliver more than 3 Amps to the motor brake without burning out the motor brake control FET. It PWMs the motor brake output to lower the voltage applied to the motor brake. The current drawn by the motor brake is measured during powerup testing. The HD motor brakes will fail that test and eventually burn out your controller because it draws more Amps than the controller can deliver. You wonder why the cart is not passing the powerup test... It's because the controller is telling you that something is failing that test, and you are not listening.

[rngilliland]

The first time I replaced my brake I soon had the same symptoms you describe. The brake was dragging but the cart still worked. I was playing golf and kept going. About ten holes later the dragging stopped. The brake disc got so hot it shattered. When I replaced it I made sure not to over tighten the bolts and that I followed the alignment procedure. I haven't had any problems since.

If the brake you put on is an OEM brake you can try reinstalling it. I remove the brake. Clean the end of the motor and brake with a wire brush. Make sure the three bolts are in good condition. The pressure plate in the brake slides on the bolts so any corrosion or damage to the bolts can keep it from releasing. Install the brake and loosely install the first two bolts. The third bolt is usually hard to align and get started so I hook up the brake, put the cart in neutral with the tow switch in tow to get it started. Tighten the bolts until the heads almost touch the lock washers. Then flip the tow switch from tow to run and back to tow a few times. Stop with the switch in tow and tighten the bolts evenly. I use 30 in/lbs. If you don't have a torque wrench only tighten them until the lock washers are just compressed.

If that doesn't help the brake is probably already damaged and you need a new one.

[Btenney]

Thanks I’ll give that a try tomorrow