1990 Marathon No Go After Upgrades

[DubK]

Originally Posted by bobbycason

Try the diagram CTD posted here, the bold lines are high current cables and the not bold lines are low current wires. The way I understand the solenoid is that the small wires tell it to close when you push the pedal and the larger cables carry the current when it closes. Looks like you should have another high current cable coming off the new solenoid going to the B+ terminal on the controller. Both terminals can be positive side but I would think you'd need somewhere for that electricity to go once the solenoid closes, as you have it wired right now the solenoid is closing but you have nowhere for it to power. You could check this with a voltage meter first. (Once again I have no experience with this setup this is just my observation)

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ml#post1315247

Thank you that diagram helped a ton. I haven't seen one that showed solenoid wiring before. I'll hopefully get it all figured out after work tonight. If not I'll be back with more questions.

[DubK]

Originally Posted by Wbk1972

Curious but to me it appears the other positive post on the solenoid might be contacting the body. Would that ground it out. I'm new to golf carts but I myself would prefer a insulating material there. Now it out could also just be the angle of the photo. But she's awfully close from the picture.

Sent from my moto z3 using Tapatalk

It's touching metal to metal. Did not have much space to work with right there to be able to use the stock mounting holes. I will put some insulating material there to keep it from touching.

[DubK]

Well I connected the missing cable from the solenoid to the B+ on the controller. Nothing. The EZGO is still an EZ-NO-GO. The solenoid still clicks but that's it. I must have something else wired incorrectly. I'll try again tomorrow.

[DubK]

Why do the wiring diagrams show 2 different styles of motors for this model? Mine is like the one in the top picture with all 4 studs in one vertical row from top to bottom. The bottom style shows 2 studs on each side. This makes wiring the cart very confusing for a rookie and leads me to believe I wired something incorrectly since my cart won't move. I wired everything up like the diagram that has my style of motor but cart won't move. Solenoid only clicks. Trying to avoid taking it to a shop and being charged an arm and a leg to get it running.

(My style motor)


(Not my style motor)

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by DubK

1. Why do the wiring diagrams show 2 different styles of motors for this model?

2. Mine is like the one in the top picture with all 4 studs in one vertical row from top to bottom. The bottom style shows 2 studs on each side.

3. This makes wiring the cart very confusing for a rookie and leads me to believe I wired something incorrectly since my cart won't move.

4. I wired everything up like the diagram that has my style of motor but cart won't move.

5. Solenoid only clicks.

6. Trying to avoid taking it to a shop and being charged an arm and a leg to get it running.

1. The drive systems used in the Marathon body style evolved over the years it was produced and used variety of motors. You have a 3-wheel Marathon so it is an X-440. Attached is the parts manual for '89 thru '91 Marathon Gas and Electric carts, which includes a 1990 X-440.

2. Technically, it doesn't matter where the studs are located.

3. Concentrate on one wire at a time.

4. We ought to be able to find out why it doesn't move with a DVM and some simple troubleshooting.

5. If the solenoid clicks, the problem is in the high current circuit, highlighted on attached schematic.

6. That is the common goal off most of the member of BGW!

------------------
Jack the rear tires off ground and put on jackstands so the half ton cart doesn't take off unexpectedly and run over something or someone.

Connect your voltmeter between the B- and M- terminals on the controller.

With F/R in F, press pedal just far enough to make solenoid click and you should read battery pack voltage, 38.2V when fully charged.

If you don't, there is an open someplace in the high current circuit. Just follow the cables highlighted in red on the schematic and the problem will be next to wherever you find the voltage.

[DubK]

Thank you JohnnieB for going into great detail about that. With my volt meter, each battery reads 6 volts. When I put the volt meter between the M- and B- on the controller and pressed the pedal it read 0 volts. However when I put the volt meter from M- to A2 on the controller it read 38 volts when pressing the pedal. Pretty much all the other high current connections I tested I couldn't get a reading because the volt meter will just beep and not show any numbers (meaning there is an open circuit). Today was my first time using a volt meter on a golf cart.

[DubK]

Still stumped on this. Should I be getting readings on all of the connections with the volt meter? Most of them cause the volt meter to beep (meaning open circuit) and won't give me a number. Also I may have mixed up the wiring to the motor I'm thinking. The A1, A2, S1, and S2 terminals on the motor from the official diagram for 89-91 Marathon and X440 are a bit confusing because my motor doesn't have them in the same spot and are not labeled so I don't know which is which. My motor has them in a straight line from top to bottom instead of two on each side. So this diagram really does me no good. But you said the location of the terminals on the motor do not matter. I'm sort of guessing on it, which is never good when you're trying to wire up 13 connections! I may need to take it to a shop because I really don't even know what I'm looking for or even what volt meter readings I should be getting on certain terminals.

[DubK]

Alright so I'm out here with the volt meter again trying to do some troubleshooting. From the main positive battery terminal to the positive on the (brand new 400 amp) solenoid I get an open circuit reading. No number..DVM just makes a beeping sound. From the main positive to every other terminal on the cart following the high current path, it reads 6 volts. What does this mean?

I get an "open" reading from these points (battery + to + on solenoid)

[JohnnieB]

Please post a picture of you voltmeter showing the knob in the position it was set to get an "open" beep when measuring the cable between battery pack positive and solenoid's battery side larger terminal.

Please use the paperclip icon on the advanced posting window to attach photos so you can attach full sized photos. The attached screen save has the paperclip icon circled and an arrow pointing at the circle.

Also, in the embedded picture of the cable highlighted in blue circles and a line, I cannot see if there is a cable attached to the solenoid's controller side larger terminal.

Also, a picture of the motor showing the studs would be helpful.

[DubK]

In the first photo is the voltmeter. There is no knob position on it.

The second photo shows the DVM attached to the battery + and solenoid + making the open beep sound.

Third photo I am holding the cable attaching the solenoid to the controller B+.

Fourth photo is my motor and the studs. Yeah it's old looking. 29 years old. (Pic uploaded sideways)

Fifth photo is the wiring diagram I used because it matches my motor stud pattern. I double and triple checked it.