CC precedent stops going 48v

[PingEye3]

If that is an AMD motor, pull the speed sensor off (a top hat design) and look at the magnet, I have found magnets in pieces, clinging to the 1/4-20 bolt that holds the magnet in place. Enough of a signal to trigger the buzzer when pushed but signal all over the place when you try to speed up. I am retired and work on private carts for members at the club and I have replaced 4 or 5 over the years all crumbled up. If it is a GE motor. the magnet replacement is a much more complicated procedure without removing motor. Read up on it before attempting to remove its cover for inspection.

That's my 2 cents for today, good luck.

[movin-on]

Don't think CC made a Precedent in 2020...Speed code 5 ???...

[zeekracing]

Originally Posted by Sergio

What kind of Controller did You have before, the black IQ or Gray Excel?

The new controller is not plug-and-play on the older carts, at the very least You will need to change one wire to provide the negative to the speed sensor.

If your cart serial number starts with "PH" (Grey Controller), there is also an issue with the throttle wires.

What is the current problem?

My old controller was black and the new one is white.
Everything plugged right up. I didn’t know there was a difference.
My serial number starts with a PQ.

Same problem. I can ease the better and it might go 20 feet then kicks off. If I hit the pedal again it will try to go and shut off right away. It’s acting like a circut breaker getting hot or bad.

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by movin-on

Don't think CC made a Precedent in 2020...Speed code 5 ???...

This is what he bought:

https://buggiesgonewild.com/showthre...78#post1752578

[zeekracing]

Originally Posted by Sergio

This is what he bought:

https://buggiesgonewild.com/showthre...78#post1752578

You are correct

[Sergio]

Originally Posted by zeekracing

My old controller was black and the new one is white.
Everything plugged right up. I didn’t know there was a difference.
My serial number starts with a PQ.

Same problem. I can ease the better and it might go 20 feet then kicks off. If I hit the pedal again it will try to go and shut off right away. It’s acting like a circut breaker getting hot or bad.

At the very minimum You need to fix the speed sensor power, instructions in this post:

https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/show...2845&p=1709723

What do you need to do in order to drive again, Pedal ON/OFF, Key Switch OFF/ON or cycle the Tow/Run switch?

[zeekracing]

Originally Posted by Sergio

At the very minimum You need to fix the speed sensor power, instructions in this post:

https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/show...2845&p=1709723

What do you need to do in order to drive again, Pedal ON/OFF, Key Switch OFF/ON or cycle the Tow/Run switch?

Pedal on/off

[Sergio]

That may just be the MCOR, did You already try disconnecting the 2-pin connector from the MCOR and putting a large paper-clip or stiff wire on the harness side connector to jump it?

[zeekracing]

Originally Posted by Sergio

At the very minimum You need to fix the speed sensor power, instructions in this post:

https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/show...2845&p=1709723

What do you need to do in order to drive again, Pedal ON/OFF, Key Switch OFF/ON or cycle the Tow/Run switch?

So since I have the white Curtis controller I still need to ground the wire? I’m just making sure since that post said excell controller. I really appreciate the help.

[Sergio]

Yes, the issue is that both the IQ and the Excel controllers provide the negative to the speed sensor on pin #13 and the White ERIC controller uses that pin for the LIN bus.

Make sure you test the MCOR per my previous post as your old controller may be fine.