Added several accessories to my G16. Keep blowing 10a fuse near solenoid.

[AGrayson84]

Originally Posted by Mike Mac

The guage size of the wire in the stock harness, I thought was a bit light, so I left it alone. And used my own seperate system, using 14 guage for most of it. But I have only added a couple 55 watt head lights and LED tail lights. The generator only puts out 15 amps, and that is at full throttle, so if you run much elect. on these things, I'm thinking it will be hard on the gen., voltage reg. as well as the battery. Increasing chance of componet failure.

Agreed Mike. I just looked at mine this morning and that grounded, fused wire looks to be maybe a bout a 16-gauge, tops. Looked like that fuse protects the starter/generator, stop switch, voltage regulator, and one other small thing. I definitely will be at upwards of a 30-amp draw with all accessories on at once, but I don't plan on really having everything on at one time like that. Maybe for a few seconds at a time once in a while. Otherwise my normal draw will be about 10 amps max, and that will be at night time with the headlights and tail-lights on.

Originally Posted by essness

I've been told you can up the fuse to a 25amp and it will cure the issue. I've never done this because, I believe the 10amp fuse in that position was not simply a mistake in the original design.
Good luck

Yeah I had read about about that last night, and as tempted as I want to be to just do that, I agree with you. I guess I'll just have to see if I can feed a 14-gauge ground wire up through the front roof support. If I can't manage to fish it through I'll end up tossing in a 20 or 25-amp fuse in place of the factory 10-amp.

The reason I was able to get some new wiring up to the roof for the dome lights, front aux lights, and rear reverse lights was because there was already one wire running through the roof support when I got it in a salvage yard. I ended up taping the crap out of my 3 new wires to the end of the single existing wire and pulled the new wiring through by removing the old single wire, and even that was a total pain. I tried fishing wiring through down the opposite end of the support all different kinds of ways and it just wouldn't happen.

[AGrayson84]

Originally Posted by LURCH

I have been told many times on here by several different people all Grounds must go to the battery period!!!!!!!
I ran a ground to a buss bar under the dash and ran everything from that.

LURCH!!!!!!

Yeah and you know what Lurch?? The only reason I decided to do a chassis ground instead of running a separate ground from the battery was because I read somewhere, on some golf cart forum (might have been this one), that all you have to do is ground to the chassis and you'll be golden, since the battery is grounded to the chassis. Whatever I read, wherever I read it, apparently didn't apply to Yamaha carts lol. Great....

Originally Posted by Mike Mac

Seems like I remember Block saying, a 16 has a mag ignition, and is not restricted with the ground like earlier models are. But I could be very wrong!!

Hey again Mike! What exactly do you mean by, "...and is not restricted with the ground like earlier models are"?? Not sure I follow on that. If BigBlock doesn't stumble upon this and chime in I'll shoot him a PM and see if he wouldn't mind giving this a read and providing some feedback. Again, I really don't see me being able to fish a ground wire up through the roof support, and that's my only obstacle in running this separate ground from the battery.

[Mike Mac]

I pulled 3 - 18 guage through by blowing a string through with air, and using that instead of a wire to pull with.

[Mike Mac]

Not much gets by Block!! bet he see's it!!

[AGrayson84]

Originally Posted by Mike Mac

I pulled 3 - 18 guage through by blowing a string through with air, and using that instead of a wire to pull with.

Hmmmm... good suggestion, don't see why i cant to that! Thanks Mike!

Originally Posted by Mike Mac

Not much gets by Block!! bet he see's it!!

Oh yeah, I've noticed... he's stepped in several times in my threads with some great info!

[LURCH]

I don't know about big block or not big block but I think they called it a floating ground on Yamaha's that's why you have to ground to the battery. Hope you get it straightened out.

LURCH!!!!!!

[AGrayson84]

Thanks Lurch. I talked to a buddy of mine who has a Masters in Electrical Engineering. Figured he's gotta be able to give me some useful input. He suggests that I eliminate the fuse on the ground (-) wiring, and add a fuse to the positive (+) wiring instead. He also suggests running maybe something like a 10 gauge wire from the ground terminal on the battery to the chassis after doing the above, since I want to use the chassis for my ground in several areas.

For now I just simply put in a 20-amp fuse in place of the 10-amp fuse, temporarily. That seems to have done the job, but I will hopefully get around to doing what he suggested in the coming weeks. I'm just drained from working on this thing for so many days now lol.

[smallblock450sl]

Don't reply to all posts because some very good members have given great advice. All I can say is when you add accessories to a Yamaha you should upgrade the main fuse from a sometimes 3 (new cars), normally 10 amp fuse to 15 or 20 amp fuse, just to much "draw" on the main car running curcuit. My never ending reply to all Yamaha's from G1 to G14 with CDI ignitions (yes, open and closed ground) is to run straight to the battery, not to the frame to stop possible ignition problems. G16's and up use a TCI, Magnito ignition system and is not as critical, but why would you take the chance? On all Yamaha's we build, the wireing will go straight to the the battery, positive and negative. I really like Lurch's fuse block set up. Once you've installed it, any more things you want to tie into it is easy. I don't claim to know everthing, just adding what we do at the dealership. Good luck!

[essness]

Originally Posted by smallblock450sl

Don't reply to all posts because some very good members have given great advice. All I can say is when you add accessories to a Yamaha you should upgrade the main fuse from a sometimes 3 (new cars), normally 10 amp fuse to 15 or 20 amp fuse, just to much "draw" on the main car running curcuit. My never ending reply to all Yamaha's from G1 to G14 with CDI ignitions (yes, open and closed ground) is to run straight to the battery, not to the frame to stop possible ignition problems. G16's and up use a TCI, Magnito ignition system and is not as critical, but why would you take the chance? On all Yamaha's we build, the wireing will go straight to the the battery, positive and negative. I really like Lurch's fuse block set up. Once you've installed it, any more things you want to tie into it is easy. I don't claim to know everthing, just adding what we do at the dealership. Good luck!

I will always yeild to what Smallblock says. He is the Yamaha man! Thanks Dave!