New batteries already dying fast?

[JohnnieB]

A PW-II might not be able to charge US Battery brand batteries properly.
The PW-II terminates its charge cycle when the on-charge voltage climbs to somewhere in the 44V to 46V range, the exact cutoff voltage varies with the specific PW-II charger.

USB's recommended termination voltage for a single stage charger, like the PW-II, is from 45V to 46.8, so about half, statistically, of the PW-II chargers will shut off before they reach the recommended voltage range.

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What does the ammeter on the charger read when it is first plugged into cart?

[Canady33]

I took a picture of the amp meter while plugged in. I double checked the batteries and they are installed properly. Being on the charger all day the powerwise is still on running. While the charger is plugged in the voltage meter reads 37.5 volts. When I unplugged the charger it dropped to 37.2 volts within 30 seconds. Pictures attached.

[JohnnieB]

It looks like one leg of the fuse is blown. That usually means one of the diode has gone belly up.

Here is a service manual and a troubleshooting guide for a Lestronic II (a PW-II is the same charger in a different case).

When first plugged in, the amps ought to be 18A or above, if the battery pack voltage is less than about 42V and PW-II charger should turn off until the on-charge voltage climbs to 45V +/- 1.0V, or 16 hours have elapsed.

[Timberwolflt]

That’s what mine was doing when it turned out to be the capacitor

[Canady33]

I just plugged it back in after some use. It got down to 32 volts within minutes of driving. This is what the amp meter reads. And a close up of the fuse

[Canady33]

What is the capacitor? Sorry for my dumb questions I am so new to this electrical stuff haha

[Timberwolflt]

Bearing in mind that I’m no expert.... and I’m not under oath... A capacitor basically stores/boosts energy/electricity taking the AC current and converting it to DC current and increasing it...ish...I’m sure one of these experts can correct me

BUT... here’s what I DO know... if yours is bad... your charger won’t get above about 2amps... which would take a month to charge your pack... A pack is in effect dead if it’s only registering 36 volts at rest

Here’s what else I know... they’ll shock the crap out of you if you ain’t careful... before testing it, short across the terminals with an insulated screwdriver... of course make sure it’s unplugged and remove at least one of the leads

Yours should be very similar to this image...

[Timberwolflt]

...And if you decide to replace it... find out from someone who knows whether or not it’s polarized... sometimes it makes a difference and sometimes it doesn’t

[Timberwolflt]

If your fuse was bad... the charger wouldn’t do anything at all... based on the assumption that it’s the AC circuit that’s fused

[cgtech]

Fuse is on the DC side, and it has 2 "legs" because it's job is to protect against diode failures (there are 2 diodes). Usually when one leg of fuse is blown, it's corresponding diode has failed. Therefore, it's typically not quite as simple as just a new fuse.