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Old 06-21-2018, 06:51 AM   #11
Tha_B_Man
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Default Re: New Reducer

If you have multiple acc, I would not go directly to the reducer. That will be a mess and a headache as far as maintenance is concerned. I have used this fuse block for years without issue. Being that it’s less than $10, you should give it a try. .


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Old 06-21-2018, 06:53 AM   #12
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Default Re: New Reducer

Quote:
Originally Posted by jrhopf17 View Post
There is a bank of negative poles on the fuse box which is where it’s connected. I thought that was the issue and tried putting the negative wire to a negative pole on one of the batteries and still nothing.


Can you post a pic?


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Old 06-21-2018, 06:58 AM   #13
E36Racer
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Default Re: New Reducer

Has to be a ground issue. Are the headlights grounded to the fuse panel?


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Old 06-21-2018, 07:02 AM   #14
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Default Re: New Reducer

The only battery post You could have used for testing the negative was the pack negative battery post.

However, if You have a working OBC, the converter needs to be using the existing 12ga black wire with a yellow bullet connector for negative.

Did You connect both the +12v positive and negative wires from the Converter to the fuse box?
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Old 06-21-2018, 08:05 AM   #15
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Default Re: New Reducer

check to make sure the negative poles are actually grounded back to the battery otherwise there is not a continuous ground to the battery. Also hook the power from the fuse box to the lighter and then run a ground to your battery negative directly. See if it works and the problem would be the ground bar on the fuse box.
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Old 06-21-2018, 10:48 AM   #16
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Default Re: New Reducer

Post a pic of your fusebox. If it is like mine, it only has positive power and no ground. I have a bus bar for the ground connections.
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Old 06-21-2018, 11:07 AM   #17
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Default Re: New Reducer

According to his post #10, he has the kind of fuse box with a separate negative buss bar.

The best way to wire the converter is to run all accessories negative to the negative buss bar.

Then run a 14 ga wire from the negative buss bar to the provided black wire with yellow bullet connector in the battery bucket.

Run a 12ga wire from the negative buss bar to the Converter negative(s) wires.

Run all your accessories positive wires to the fuse box.

Run a 12ga wire from the fuse box to the converter +12v positive output.

If the Converter is 30 amps and it is more than 6 feet away from the fuse box, run a 10ga wire (instead of 12ga) from the converter +12v output to the fuse box.

Run a 14ga wire from the pack positive battery post to the Converter +48v input, place a 10 amp fuse near the battery post.

If Your converter has a "trigger wire", run a 18ga or 16ga wire from the Converter "trigger wire" to the key switch "cold side" or "switched side".

This assumes You have a non-isolated converter which is by far the most common (The converter would specifically say "Isolated" if it has isolated input/output circuits).

Last edited by Sergio; 06-21-2018 at 11:30 AM.. Reason: More info.
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Old 06-21-2018, 11:52 AM   #18
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Default Re: New Reducer

Are you saying you are getting 12v from one spot in your "box" and nowhere else from that box?
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Old 06-21-2018, 11:55 AM   #19
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Default Re: New Reducer

Sorry Sergio. Did not see your posts.
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Old 06-21-2018, 03:27 PM   #20
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Default Re: New Reducer

Can you post a pic of the converter and also the fuse panel? That will probably reveal the issue.

Also, as Sergio stated your best bet is to connect the ground bus bar to both the main pack negative AND the negative coming out of the converter (as long as it’s not labeled as an “isolated “ reducer).


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