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Old 07-08-2020, 06:28 AM   #1
Tommy44
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Default 2014 Club Car Carryall 300 48V

Hope everyone is doing well. I recently acquired a Carryall 300 48V, everything looks good but seems as though there may be some internal gremlins as the cart will only charge in the "tow" position and as soon as you flip to "run" the charger cuts off. All fuses and connection look good. Charged the cart and got it to 48.7 volts yesterday afternoon and tried to give it a test run and lights came on, back up alarm worked and the cart went in reverse for about 25' and then I went forward for about 15' and the cart died. All lights and back up alarm still worked but the cart would not go anywhere. I have searched for a service manual but no luck, anyone have any suggestions or a service manual for this cart?

Thank you!!
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Old 07-08-2020, 11:27 AM   #2
ThreeCW
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Default Re: 2014 Club Car Carryall 300 48V

It looks like you have a pretty weak set of batteries, or a charger / charging system that is not functioning properly. I'm not familiar with the Club Cart charging system, so I'll let others guide you on that.

At 48.7 volts with a "stabilized" battery pack, you are only at a 55% state of charge (see attached chart). After charging, it takes about 24 hours with the charger disconnected and with no use for the battery pack to "stabilize" so you can determine the actual charge on your battery pack. A fully charged and stabilized battery pack should read about 50.9 volts.

If you read your battery pack voltage right after your charger turned off, then your state of charge is likely much less than the 55% ... hence the short run time that you experienced.

What make and model of batteries do you have? Is there a date stamp or sticker on them. Golf cart batteries can last 5+ years with good maintenance and charging practices or less than a year if they are abused.

Best to fully charge your batteries again. While charging, use your multi-meter to measure the charging voltage of the pack and of each individual battery. Once fully charged, disconnect the charger and with no use, allow the batteries to "stabilize" for 12 to 24 hours. Again record the battery pack voltage and the voltage of each battery.

Let us know your results and one of the members of BGW can guide your from there.
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File Type: jpg Carts Unlimited State of Charge Chart.JPG (71.0 KB, 0 views)
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Old 07-08-2020, 02:48 PM   #3
Tommy44
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Default Re: 2014 Club Car Carryall 300 48V

Thank you for the info. The cart was sitting due to an unknown issue and when I initially checked the batteries they were all around 8 volts. Before reading your reply today, I unhooked the charger and the batteries showed 52.7 volts. I attempted to test the cart again and got even less distance than yesterday.

Once the pedal was pushed today it would begin to move and then die out again, tried this multiple times in both forward and reverse. Pushed it back into the garage and checked the voltage and it was at 50.6. Decided to jack the rear end up and try it. One wheel would turn but if you put any friction against the tire the other tire would begin to spin. This worked with the pedal pushed down 25%, but as you increased with pressure on the pedal both tires would stop and the cart would go into limp mode until you switched the toggle switch from run to tow and then back to run. At this point it would start over with a tire spinning in forward or reverse.

I still need to put a full charge on the batteries, but have another set off used but good batteries to put in there after testing the current set. Any new thoughts or do I need to test the batteries first?
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Old 07-08-2020, 11:23 PM   #4
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Default Re: 2014 Club Car Carryall 300 48V

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy44 View Post
The cart was sitting due to an unknown issue and when I initially checked the batteries they were all around 8 volts.
Batteries at 8.0 volts would be about a 40% state of charge. If they had been sitting around for a number of weeks or months, there certainly may be some difficult to remove or permanent sulfation that would likely prevent these batteries from receiving a full charge. On the bright side, it might only be a minor impairment since be batteries were not completely dead. I suggest attempting to give these batteries a full charge ... let them stabilize 12 - 24 hrs and then measure the static voltage to determine if you were able to fully recharge them. In some cases, batteries with minor sulfation can be reconditioned either by using a special battery re-conditioner or by performing multiple full charge cycles with your Club Car battery charger. In other cases, they fail to fully recover and suffer some permanent impairment.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Tommy44 View Post
I still need to put a full charge on the batteries, but have another set off used but good batteries to put in there after testing the current set. Any new thoughts or do I need to test the batteries first?
I would suggest testing the existing batteries first ... once recharged and stabilized, record both the pack voltage and the individual battery voltages to assess their state of charge. If the first set fails to work for you, then it would be on to Plan B. Note that it may take up to 16 hours to fully recharge your battery pack.
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Old 07-13-2020, 08:53 AM   #5
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Default Re: 2014 Club Car Carryall 300 48V

Finally able to put a full charge on the cart over the weekend, let it sit and then read voltages and the cart was at 50.8V after "resting" for 24 hours. Tried to drive the cart at that point and same thing happened. Put it in reverse backed up about 20 feet and everything felt correct, flipped to forward went about 10 feet and it died. It would not move at that point but lights and reverse alarm still worked and batteries were still right at 50.8 volts.

Suggestions??
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Old 07-13-2020, 12:36 PM   #6
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Default Re: 2014 Club Car Carryall 300 48V

Glad to hear that your batteries are fully charging for you.

I'll start with the disclaimer that I'm not familiar with CC carts, but doing some reading on BGW it could possibly be your MCOR (Motor Controller Output Regulator). See link to parts manual for your cart (it is too large download onto BGW). https://mobilicab.com/F4hxm7zhX073ec...ll-300-IPL.pdf

Perhaps other BGW members could assist in confirming if this sounds like a bad MCOR ... funny that it would back up OK but cut out going forward ... that being said, the MCOR function should not change based on direction ... so perhaps it has something to do with the FWD-REV circuit.

One thing that you could do is jack up the drive wheels off the ground and SLOWLY test the forward and reverse function without load. Use caution as you DO NOT WANT TO OVER SPEED THE MOTOR ... too fast and it can fly apart. This may help to provide some more diagnostic information. Run it for say 2 minutes in each direction if possible. And switch a few times between forwards and reverse (stopping in between of course) to check out the FWD and REV circuit with no load.

I guess I will sit on the sidelines and see if others can help you resolve this problem.
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Old 07-13-2020, 03:37 PM   #7
Tommy44
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Default Re: 2014 Club Car Carryall 300 48V

Thank you for the help and suggestions! I obviously still need more help and suggestions as its not the best time of the year to be working on the cart but atleast I will have it up and running soon, hopefully.

Last week when I was initially scratching my head I did lift the rear wheels off the ground and had the wheels turning at 1/3 speed in both directions. Seemed to work ok, no grinding or unusual noises.

The Resistor Assembly did look like it may have gotten hot or burned at one point when checking it this afternoon. I assume that when testing the assembly I should not have power running through resistor?? I did have some power going through the resistor, not really sure if that is normal or signs of a faulty part...
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Old 07-13-2020, 11:15 PM   #8
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Default Re: 2014 Club Car Carryall 300 48V

Are you talking about the resistor that is connected to the two large posts of the solenoid?

If that resistor is getting hot when operating, you will want to check for the proper operation of the solenoid. If the solenoid is closing properly, there should be no resistance between the two large posts of the solenoid.
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Old 07-14-2020, 07:35 AM   #9
Tommy44
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Default Re: 2014 Club Car Carryall 300 48V

I am talking about that resistor, granted I have not had the cart running long enough to check for heat. But judging by the looks of the resistor if got hot before. Have a new solenoid coming today and a new resistor on the shelf to test.

Other than your help I have not received any other suggestions so hopefully I can figure this out sooner than later.
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Old 07-14-2020, 03:57 PM   #10
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Default Re: 2014 Club Car Carryall 300 48V

You might be best to post a few photos of the cart electronics and and battery wiring. And especially of the solenoid that you plan to replace.

They say that a picture is worth a thousand words ... perhaps someone might be able to spot a possible problem.
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