98 EZGO frustration

[Sideways]

Just for grins, what brand/rating are the batteries you installed?

[JohnnieB]

The ITS voltages are determined by the Make/Model of the controller, so the voltages you found that go along the the 7/32" spacing may not be valid for your controller.

Actually, the 7/32" spacing is for a PDS (sepex drive) and you've got a series drive. However the spacing isn't all that critical.

There ought to be a label on the bottom of your controller telling us what model it is.

[Blacksheepkustoms]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

The ITS voltages are determined by the Make/Model of the controller, so the voltages you found that go along the the 7/32" spacing may not be valid for your controller.

Actually, the 7/32" spacing is for a PDS (sepex drive) and you've got a series drive. However the spacing isn't all that critical.

There ought to be a label on the bottom of your controller telling us what model it is.

I will get that tomorrow. Also, I wasnt checking voltage . someone had me checking resistance.

[Blacksheepkustoms]

Ok, I tried looking all over the controller, and found no model number. I did test the foot throttle. I hooked my black test lead to the B- and red probe to the ITS at the white connection. With the solenoid just activated I get .75 volts. With the pedal depressed to the floor, I get .9v. It say volts should be around 2.5v with pedal depressed.

[Blacksheepkustoms]

Ok, I also checked the base voltage on the black wire coming out of the controller. It measured 3.8v with the solenoid activated.

[Blacksheepkustoms]

Not trying to get ahead of myself. But, could a newer 03 model controller be wired ti this cart? I have an 03 curtis controller,missing the solenoid and pkug that goes to it. Is that an option? Because I checked the controller from M- and B+ with pedal down I have no pack voltage.

[Blacksheepkustoms]

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Photos

[JohnnieB]

If the body is plastic, it's a TXT. If it's metal, it's a Medalist.

It doesn't have headlights, so it is not a Freedom.

The '03 controller will work if it is a series drive controller, however an Alltrax SR48400 (or larger) would be a better controller.

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Trace the grey cable from the pedal box and you'll fin an in-line connector that causes all sorts of problems. Replace it with individual solder joints or butt-splices and waterproof with marine grade (adhesive filled) shrink tubing.

If it still doesn't run, try a different controller.

[Blacksheepkustoms]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

If the body is plastic, it's a TXT. If it's metal, it's a Medalist.

It doesn't have headlights, so it is not a Freedom.

The '03 controller will work if it is a series drive controller, however an Alltrax SR48400 (or larger) would be a better controller.

-- i did that over the weekend. Heat shrink snd soldered wires
Trace the grey cable from the pedal box and you'll fin an in-line connector that causes all sorts of problems. Replace it with individual solder joints or butt-splices and waterproof with marine grade (adhesive filled) shrink tubing.

If it still doesn't run, try a different controller.

I did that lasy weekend. Solder and heat shrink

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Blacksheepkustoms

I did that lasy weekend. Solder and heat shrink

Does the solenoid clicks when the pedal is pushed?

If so, measure the voltage between the controller's B- and M- terminals.
Slowly press pedal.
Should measure full battery pack voltage when solenoid clicks.
I so, voltage ought to smoothly decrease to 0V as pedal is pressed to floor.
If it doesn't decrease to 0V, the throttle or the controller is bad.

If full pack voltage is not measured, there is an open in the high amp circuit (thick cables).