need help TXT/PDS diagnosis, EZ nogo

[Motodad85]

Thansk Johnnie B, looks like the controller is bad, thanks for all your help and I will call carts unlimited now

[Motodad85]

Well I installed a new controller and still NO GO!!!
the solenoid still is not clicking. 1 thing that I see is that on both of the heavy cables to the motor, I have operating voltage, one the 2 smaller wires (F1and F2) I have the same, but only when they are unplugged from the contoller, white and black wire, when I plug them in the controller it loses voltage. Is that normal? Also on the 5 pin conector (J2) spot on the contoller there is nothing connected, performance option.

[Rasor]

Hi Motodad85,
Don't know if you have checked but in the charge receptacle there is a reed switch which stops the cart being driven while it is charging, sometimes this switch becomes faulty. Bypass the little glass reed switch and then try the cart. This has happened to me before and drove me nuts trying to work it out. You don't have to replace the switch if it is the problem however you need to be carefull not to drive off with the charger in. You can buy the reed switches fairly cheaply.
Regards
Razor

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Motodad85

1. Well I installed a new controller and still NO GO!!!
the solenoid still is not clicking.

2. 1 thing that I see is that on both of the heavy cables to the motor, I have operating voltage, one the 2 smaller wires (F1and F2) I have the same, but only when they are unplugged from the contoller, white and black wire, when I plug them in the controller it loses voltage. Is that normal?

3. Also on the 5 pin conector (J2) spot on the contoller there is nothing connected, performance option.

1. That is odd. When the controller has battery pack voltage at all the pins listed in my post# 4 above, it was being told to activate the solenoid and wasn't doing it, so the controller was bad.
Getting a replacement controller that is bad is possible, but unlikely.

What are the voltages measured at the following points?

Measure and note battery pack voltage (Should be 38.2V if fully charged)
Set controls as follows:
Charger unplugged from cart.
Run/Tow switch in Run position
Keyswitch = ON
F/R switch = F
Pedal pressed
Attach DVM negative test lead to main negative post on battery pack.

Measure voltages at the following pins on controller while the plugs are plugged into controller.
You should read full battery pack voltage on:
J1 Pins 1, 3, 4, 5, 6, 8 & 9
J3 Pins 1, 2, 3 & 4
J4 Pins 1 & 2

2. Until the solenoid clicks, voltage readings on the wires/cables attached to motor are more or less meaningless.
(Remove the 250 Ohm resistor from the big terminals on the solenoid and those voltage readings will probably disappear.)

3. Without a plug in J2, the controller will be in All Terrain mode (aka Golf mode). Transfer the plug from the old controller, if it has one.

[Motodad85]

Thanks guys will check when I get home and report

[Motodad85]

Johnnie B
Battery voltage is 38.3
J1 1,3,4,5,,7,9, have 38.2 pin 6 is 37.9
J31,2,3,4, 38.2
J4 1,2 38.1

RAsor I have battery voltage at pin 4 so the reed switch is OK or should it be open shows closed in the EWD
1 thing that I did was disconnect the battery both terminals in hopes that something will reset, I checked the voltage at A1 and B+ and there was 9V and dropped to 4.4V staying steady, is this because of enegry kept in the motor?
I also have 4-5 volts on the heat sink ?? whats up with that?

Still no click, is there anyway to over ride the solenoid, just to see it the motor is working?

Thanks for ALL your help, staring to drive me crazy

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Motodad85

Johnnie B
1. Battery voltage is 38.3
J1 1,3,4,5,,7,9, have 38.2 pin 6 is 37.9
J31,2,3,4, 38.2
J4 1,2 38.1

2. RAsor I have battery voltage at pin 4 so the reed switch is OK or should it be open shows closed in the EWD

3. 1 thing that I did was disconnect the battery both terminals in hopes that something will reset,

4. I checked the voltage at A1 and B+ and there was 9V and dropped to 4.4V staying steady, is this because of enegry kept in the motor?

5. I also have 4-5 volts on the heat sink ?? whats up with that?

6. Still no click, is there anyway to over ride the solenoid, just to see it the motor is working?

Thanks for ALL your help, staring to drive me crazy

1. Suspect "7" is a typo. Probably meant "8"
Pin-6 is the voltage source for the solenoid coil and Pin-7 is the voltage sink for the solenoid coil.
If the transistor at Pin-7 is not turned on, completing the current path between B+ and B- for the solenoid coil, Pin7 will have same voltage as Pin-6 unless the coil or a connecting wire is open.

The fact that the voltage at Pin-6 is 0.3V lower than the others, could mean there is some current flow through solenoid coil, but not enough to activate it. That could mean the solenoid is mechanically stuck. I'll explain how to check it in #6 below.

2. The Reed switch contacts are normally closed. They are opened when a magnet is brought in close proximity to them.
There is a magnet in the charger plug, which opens the Reed switch, so the cart cannot be driven away while charger is plugged into it.
If you have B+ on J1 Pin-4, the Reed switch contacts are closed, or the Reed switch has been bypassed.

3. Hopefully, you flipped the Run/Tow switch to Tow before disconnecting battery cables.
Otherwise, you might have blown the controller.

To reset a PDS controller, Flip the Run/Tow switch to Tow for about half a minute.

Never, ever, connect or disconnect any wire or cable in a PDS cart without first placing the Run/Tow switch into the Tow position. (The Tow position is actually the Tow/Maintenance position)

4. There are a dozen or more filter capacitors that are "Precharged" by the 250 Ohm resistor across the solenoid contacts. The reason the voltage decreased from 9 down to 4.4 is because your DVM provided an additional discharge path.

5. The heat sink is attached to the cart's frame, so you have a "Phantom" current path, or paths, between the batteries and frame. The voltage measured is fairly low, so there probably isn't a bare wire touching.

If your DVM has a 1 Meg-ohm input impedance, the impedance of the phantom path is in the 3.8 to 4.8 Meg-ohm range. My guess is electrolyte residue between the + poles on batteries and battery tray.

Attach the DVM negative test lead to the negative pole on battery and move the positive test lead over the plastic top of the battery and you'll most likely get a voltage reading.

Spraying battery tops and sides and battery tray with a backing soda solution, scrubbing with brush and rinsing thoroughly will help, but probably won't eliminate it completely.
It's not a major concern. Mostly it just causes battery pack to "self" discharge faster.

6. Overriding solenoid to check motor.
Jack rear wheels up and put on jackstands so cart doesn't take off unexpectedly and run over someone or something
Put Run/Tow switch in Tow position
Remove the Yellow wire from solenoid coil terminal.
Connect a jumper wire from main negative post on battery pack, or B- terminal on controller.
Return Run/Tow switch to Run.
The solenoid should now click when Keyswitch is ON and F/R is in either F or R.
Caution: The wheels will most like start moving the instant the solenoid clicks.
The wheels should spin faster when throttle pedal is pressed.
Do not run motor at full throttle or excessively with wheels off ground.

If solenoid still isn't clicking, put Run/Tow into Tow and remove both red wires from other coil terminal.
Connect one end of a jumper wire to main positive of battery pack.
Momentarily touch other end of jumper to the coil terminal that the red wires were attached to.
The solenoid should click every time the jumper wire touches.

[Motodad85]

yes a typo, but at 7 I DO HAVE 38.2V.
When I get home I will try to jump the solenoid.
Yes I have a very goor DVM, Fluke 88, and I have always flipped the switch.
I have tried to get into the diagnostic mode, but only a solid beep from reverse, NO code beeps. There is a cart place down the street, but I don't really trust them. I might just have to take it there to start replacing good known parts. Just don't learn anything that way.
will touch back later
Thanks Again you have been more help than you know
Mike S

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Motodad85

yes a typo, but at 7 I DO HAVE 38.2V.............

That is weird. If there is 37.9V on Pin-6, there ought to be 37.9V on Pin-7, when Pin-7 isn't turn on. (If Pin-7 was turned on, the voltage would be zero, or close to zero)

Of course, I've been troubleshooting electrical and electronic devices for 50+ years, so I've seen a lot of things that seemingly defy the laws of Physics.
Most I've eventually figured out, but others I haven't, or at least not yet.

BTW: A Fluke 88 is a nice meter. I have a couple nice meters that I keep in my tool case and on my workbench and usually use a throwaway DMM when I work on my cart.
My reasoning is, why risk damaging a $500 meter when a $15 meter will do the job, most of the time at least?

Let us know what you find.

[Motodad85]

well no click, I give up!!! I will call the guy down the steet tomorrow and have him pick it up, Thanks for all your help, might be a bad contoller( which I got from the guy down the street) or a combo of solenoid and controller??? who knows. I will let you know what he finds. We need it this weekend, big race coming up, and Momma just doesnt want to walk.