'86 Medalist 6 passenger won't run EZ GO type

[yurtle]

The frustrating part is wanting to help someone by remote control, knowing it would take less than 30 seconds to perform the required tests, but recognizing that we all have jobs/lives, and varying degrees of skill with trouble-shooting electrical circuits.

After you've been here a few years, you begin to recognize the names and personalities of the regulars in this community.

[Harolds secret weapon]

Thanks yurtle, i have been known from time to time to probably get a little worked up too. But, all is good now and I am really appreciative of everything you guys have done for me on here..helping me figure these things out. I hope to stay in touch for years and then i'll know you guys and you guys will know me..Thanks again everybody!!

[Harolds secret weapon]

JohnnieB, You out there? Lol
alright, I was wondering if i could pick your brain one more time on this medalist cart i'm still working on. I can't quite figure out what's going on with it? I thought it was the FandR switch, but i'm not so sure?
I have little battery voltage compared to what i should have, i know that...but, considering what i have, i figure i will work with this until i figure something out...okay, i have 35 volts on all the terminals(large) that i'm supposed to, I have 35 volts on both large terminals on my solenoid and on the small terminal when i push the pedal microswitch. but i only have 11-14 volts at my FandR switch which i believe is fed by straight battery wiring, am i right?...anyway, if you wouldn't mind, kind sir, i'm trying to figure out, why i'm not getting the proper voltage from my key switch to my microswitches and then to my potentiometer? i really appreciate any advice you might be able to give..

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Harolds secret weapon

JohnnieB, You out there? Lol
alright, I was wondering if i could pick your brain one more time on this medalist cart i'm still working on. I can't quite figure out what's going on with it? I thought it was the FandR switch, but i'm not so sure?
I have little battery voltage compared to what i should have, i know that...but, considering what i have, i figure i will work with this until i figure something out...okay, i have 35 volts on all the terminals(large) that i'm supposed to, I have 35 volts on both large terminals on my solenoid and on the small terminal when i push the pedal microswitch. but i only have 11-14 volts at my FandR switch which i believe is fed by straight battery wiring, am i right?...anyway, if you wouldn't mind, kind sir, i'm trying to figure out, why i'm not getting the proper voltage from my key switch to my microswitches and then to my potentiometer? i really appreciate any advice you might be able to give..

I'm here, I've had my morning coffee and I took a Nice Pill.

I'm guessing that your cart is a 1996 Medalist rather than being a 1986 model as described in the thread title.
You can verify what you have by entering the serial number at this website: http://www.shopezgo.com/customer-ser...ialNumber.html

The first attachment is the schematic I am looking at. The Medalist came both with and without a Reed switch, but the rest is the same. (I do the the other schematics, but this is easier to read.)

At 35V, the State of Charge of your 36V battery pack is only 20%, so any loading will make the voltage drop drastically.

If I had your cart in front of me, the first thing I would do is charge the batteries. The batteries are simply too low for troubleshooting accurately or reliably.

If the battery pack will not take/hold a charge, it may be possible to troubleshoot while the battery charger is connected to cart and supplying a more reasonably power source to troubleshoot with. Just don't turn any accessories if the cart has any. (Halogen headlight bulbs will burn out if turned on while charger is charging pack)

If the cart has a Reed switch, it will have to be bypassed. Connect the red wire going into the wiring harness to the main positive terminal on the battery pack. See second picture.

With Key ON, F/R in either F or R and pedal pressed, does the solenoid click?
If not, we will have to troubleshoot the solenoid activation circuit.

If it does click, attach the negative test lead of your DVM to the main negative terminal on battery pack, as shown in third drawing.

Attach DVM's positive test lead to the terminal labeled M- on top of controller.
When the solenoid first clicks, you should have FULL battery pack voltage.
If you don't, we will have to troubleshoot the High Current circuit.
If you do, press throttle pedal slowly to floor.
Voltage should slowly decrease to zero or near zero.

If it does, we need to troubleshoot the motor.

If it doesn't, we will have to troubleshoot the ITS (Inductive Throttle System)
If the ITS checks out okay, the controller is bad.

Let my know what you find and we will proceed from there.

[Harolds secret weapon]

You Rock Man!! Thanks...I'll get them charged up or see if their even worth charging anymore, they've been charged once already since they've been in the shop..But, thanks for the help!

[JohnnieB]

If they have been charged is the last week or so and down to 35V without the cart being driven, they are probably boat anchors.

BTW - I took some classes at OU while stationed at Tinker, AFB back in the '60's and while I no longer follow college football, it's still difficult for me to be civil to a Texan during football season.

[Harolds secret weapon]

I'll keep that in mind...lol
I'm not a texan, just stationed here..in A.F.
I was actually stationed at tinker back in '94-2001..Not a bad place.
Sooo, boat anchors you say?...okay, well, i'll talk to the boss man about it
thanks again man!

[JohnnieB]

Dyess you say? Rats, I thought I was razzing a Texan.

[Harolds secret weapon]

Yup, Good Ol dyess...Been here for over 7 years now..
Thanks for the help again, hollar at ya later.