Alright guys I need your expertise!!

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Tom Burke

Tested out put at disconnected heat sink wires only got 64.9v. Sounds a little low. What else could it be?

The capacitor is bad. (or disconnected)
It is 6 mfd 660 VAC.
You ought to be able to get one at a local electrical supply.
It has to be 6mfd, but any voltage rating over about 400VAC will work.

A "Motor Run" capacitor would be best, but a Motor Start" one will work also.

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Gotta run for now, be back later

[Tom Burke]

It's hooked up just must be bad. ImageUploadedByTapatalk1357674977.400694.jpg

[JohnnieB]

That would be my guess.

Without the capacitor connected, you should have about 60VAC on the wire that connect to the diodes and about 480VAC on the wires the connect to the capacitor.
I suspect the capacitor has gone out of tolerance due to aging and is both dragging down the winding it is connected to and not boosting the diode windings like it should.

Even though your charger doesn't turn off automatically, the battery charging profile is designed into the matching ferroresonant transformer/capacitor pair, so it should start out at about 20A and stay there until the on-charge voltage reaches about 39-40 volt and then taper off down to 5A or less as the on-charge voltage continues to rise.


Connect a good capacitor and it should boost the 60VAC up to about 90VAC and you'll be good to go.

[Tom Burke]

Thanks for all your help! U.S Golf Cars want 50 bucks for that now. Plus shipping. Does this seem right?

[JohnnieB]

That is a bit steep. google "6 mfd 660VAC capacitor" for better prices.

[Tom Burke]

Is there a safe way to take that thing out without socking the $hit out of me?

[JohnnieB]

Make sure charger is unplugged from AC outlet.

Short between the capacitor terminals with a jumper wire while holding onto the insulation.
I've used the shaft of an old screwdriver while holding onto the insulated handle, but most any metal object will work as long as you aren't touch the metal.

[pggroves]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Make sure charger is unplugged from AC outlet.

Short between the capacitor terminals with a jumper wire while holding onto the insulation.
I've used the shaft of an old screwdriver while holding onto the insulated handle, but most any metal object will work as long as you aren't touch the metal.

Yes, that works. And I and many have done it over the years but.... just for safety sake and general best safe practice....

Probably a better habit to use a resistor to bleed it off versus the arc gouge that "could" be created on the tool and the cap terminal....

Might be able to use this as well....

Won't harm tools or fingers! (or in the case of us old guys, heart rhythms)

Kind of cool to see the bulb light up and fade to black since a light bulb is just a "resistor of sorts" but know that it may burn out the bulb if the cap charge is high enough and time hasn't dissipated voltage.

[scottyb]

The short method always scares me .......

[Tom Burke]

I installed the capacitor today and charger works great! Thanks guys for all the help. Now on to getting the lights fixed.