Motor removal

[scottyb]

This works - just be careful the motor doesn't hit you on the foot

[93yellowclubcar]

Dawg's method works like a charm! He told me how to do it a while back, and I nearly laughed until I actually did it. Is it a hassle getting the rear end out? Sure, but not nearly as bad as ruining an armature.

[AubAlum0509]

I just had the same issue. I was going to try TahoeDawg's approach, but I ended up getting it off without having to remove rear axle. What I did was spray the shaft where the armature meets, with Kroil oil, which penetrates a lot better than WD40. I let it sit for about 10 minutes, then sprayed it again, and applied heat from a commercial grade heat shrink gun. I then grab the motor casing and pulled, to my surprise, it slide right off, and crushed my fingers between motor casing and rear axle.

I had been trying to get this thing off for a an hour or so, so I was surprised, that it slide off so easily, which resulted in my finger getting smashed, but its all good now. Hope this helps.

Growing up on a farm and owning Center Console offshore fishing boat, heat has always been the key to working on many stuck bolts.

[Lakebit]

Originally Posted by AubAlum0509

I just had the same issue. I was going to try TahoeDawg's approach, but I ended up getting it off without having to remove rear axle. What I did was spray the shaft where the armature meets, with Kroil oil, which penetrates a lot better than WD40. I let it sit for about 10 minutes, then sprayed it again, and applied heat from a commercial grade heat shrink gun. I then grab the motor casing and pulled, to my surprise, it slide right off, and crushed my fingers between motor casing and rear axle.

I had been trying to get this thing off for a an hour or so, so I was surprised, that it slide off so easily, which resulted in my finger getting smashed, but its all good now. Hope this helps.

Growing up on a farm and owning Center Console offshore fishing boat, heat has always been the key to working on many stuck bolts.

Safe heat application is a key factor in getting rust to break loss, but I have used Kroil oil for 40 years in my industrial and home work. No better penetrating oil on the market, in my opinion

[jjance]

WD40 will make things worst.

[Hawkeye00]

Ok. It is a little bit of work to remove the rear end, but this method is absolutely a winner! Had no luck tugging, pulling and frustrating myself to a fury of wonderful words! Removed rear end flip hub and dropped twice and out she came!!! JOYYYYYYYYYYYY! Almost made me forget all the previous frustrating futile efforts. Thanks TahoeDawgZ71

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by Hawkeye00

Ok. It is a little bit of work to remove the rear end, but this method is absolutely a winner! Had no luck tugging, pulling and frustrating myself to a fury of wonderful words! Removed rear end flip hub and dropped twice and out she came!!! JOYYYYYYYYYYYY! Almost made me forget all the previous frustrating futile efforts. Thanks TahoeDawgZ71

[Manufactured_hometrash]

Originally Posted by TahoeDawgZ71

Take the rear end out of the car. Take the passenger side tire off of the rear end. Take brake drum off. Flip brake drum around backwards and tighten lug nuts to where they are snug enough to hold the drum to the axle. Don't torque them down. With the aid of an assistant, lift the rear end up 3 - 4 feet into the air and drop the rear end onto a concrete floor onto the inverted brake drum. The drum is inverted so you don't damage the wheel studs during this process. The motor will fall off as soon as it hits the ground. If it doesn't, try it again. I've never had to drop one more than three times. Don't laugh. Try it and thank me later.

Awesome! This actually worked on my Club Car that had been parked for several years after it broke down.

[TahoeDawgZ71]

Originally Posted by Manufactured_hometrash

Awesome! This actually worked on my Club Car that had been parked for several years after it broke down.

It's not exactly graceful, but it's very effective!