Testing micro switches and generator/starter

[Jdawg99]

I would like some info on testing micro switches. What should I be looking for to see if mine are good? Test in voltage or resistance? Open or closed?
How can I test to see if starter is working? Can I jump it from battery to see if it works, if so which contacts can I use? Any info is appreciated, thanks.

[cart around]

Put your selector switch to forward. Jump F2 to positive, and A1 to negative. Starter should spin.

Micro switches should be checked for resistance open and closed positions. Remove both wires.

1 is infinity. That's an open circuit. You should see some very low ohms when the switch is closed.

You can drill the rivets, open the switch, clean the contacts, and pop rivet it back together. That, or you can spend a couple bucks on new switches.

Number one rule is "test it before you replace it".

[kgsc]

You can test the starter generator by jumping the big lugs on the solenoid. If it spins to motor it at least is turning. You can't test the voltage output until it is running. As for the micro switches a EZGo gas cart has one next to the go pedal in a box under the floor. If the solenoid is not activating when you push the pedal I would first test to see if voltage is making it to the small wires on the solenoid when the pedal is pushed. If so, bad solenoid. If no, check the fuse next to the solenoid . Then start chasing wires with your voltmeter. Negative on the battery and start checking at the pedal switch and then the key switch..

[Jdawg99]

For some reason I have not been getting anything to turn besides the beeper. Now after putting my multi meter on things to check voltage, I have gotten the starter to turn over! I now have full rotation and found out I need a new starting battery! Bad is I need to look for spark and take carb off and clean it out. Too hot out to sweat over the hot metal, but when it cools down tonight I will tear into it again. Thanks all for the help.

[sccowboy]

Here is a diagram for you if you need it as well as a test procedure for the S/G:

Test Procedure 7 - Starter/Generator (Starter Function)

1. Place the neutral lock-out cam in the SERVICE position, put the forward and reverse lever in the NEUTRAL
position, and chock the wheels.

2. Check that wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.

3. Disconnect the wires from all the terminals on the starter/generator. Then place the black (-) probe of a
multimeter, set to ohms (O), on the starter/generator housing (scratch through the paint to insure a
good ground). While holding the black probe against the housing, place the red (+) probe (one at a
time) on the A1, A2, F1, F2 and DF terminals respectively (Figure 12-25, Page 100). The readings
should be no continuity. If the readings are incorrect, the starter/generator will need to be removed
from the vehicle and disassembled by a qualified technician (See Removal of the Starter/Generator,
Page 107).
An incorrect reading from A1 or A2 terminal indicates three possible problems: 1) a grounded A1 or A2
terminal, 2) a grounded wire in the brush area, or 3) a grounded armature/commutator.
If the F1 or F2 reading is incorrect, it indicates a possible grounded F1 or F2 terminal or a grounded
field coil.
If the DF reading is incorrect, it indicates a possible grounded DF terminal or a grounded field coil.

4. Disconnect the ground wire from the A2 terminal and the green wire from the A1 terminal on the
starter/generator. Using a multimeter set to ohms (O), place the red (+) probe on the A1 terminal and
the black (-) probe on the A2 terminal. The reading should be continuity.
If the reading is incorrect, a possible open or poor contact in a brush assembly and/or open armature
windings maybe the cause. The starter/generator will need to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled
by a qualified technician (See Removal of the Starter/Generator, Page 107).

5. Disconnect the green wire from the F1 terminal and the white wire from the F2 terminal on the starter/
generator. Using a multimeter set on ohms (O), place the red (+) probe on the F1 terminal and the
black (-) probe on the F2 terminal. The reading should be continuity.
If the reading is incorrect, a possible open field coil or bad connections at terminals may be the cause.
The starter/generator will need to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled by a qualified technician

6. Disconnect the yellow wire from the DF terminal and the green wire from the F1 terminal on the starter/
generator. Using a multimeter set on ohms (O), place the red (+) probe on the DF terminal and the
black (-) probe on the F1 terminal. The reading should be between 4.5 to 5.5 ohms (O).
If the reading is incorrect, a possible grounded DF terminal and/or grounded field coil may be the
cause. The starter/generator will need to be removed from the vehicle and disassembled by a qualified
technician


Test Procedure 9 - Starter/Generator (Generator Function)

1. Place the neutral lock-out cam in the SERVICE position, put the forward and reverse lever in the NEUTRAL
position, and chock the wheels.

2. Check that wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.

3. Disconnect the yellow wire from the DF terminal on the starter/generator. Cover the connector on the
yellow wire to make sure the yellow wire will not short to ground. Then, using a jumper wire, ground the
DF terminal to the A2 terminal. Using a multimeter set to Volts DC (20v range), place the red (+) probe
on the positive (+) post of the battery, and place the black (-) probe on the negative (-) post. Turn the
key switch to the ON position, and depress the accelerator to start the engine. Run the engine at full
governed speed. The reading should show voltage rising on the meter. If voltage rises, see Test Procedure
10 - Voltage Regulator. If the voltage does not rise, see Starter/Generator Repair, Pages 107-116.

4. Reconnect the yellow wire to the (DF) terminal on the starter/generator.


Test Procedure 10 - Voltage Regulator:

1. Place the neutral lock-out cam in the SERVICE position, put the forward and reverse lever in the NEUTRAL
position, and chock the wheels.

2. Check that the wires are connected correctly and are tight. If they are not, rewire or tighten as necessary.

3. Start the engine and check engine-governored RPM. The reading should be between 2670-2730 RPM.
If it is not, adjust the accelerator cable at the electrical component box (See Fuel System, Section 14).

4. With the battery in good condition and fully charged, and with proper ventilation, run the engine for several
minutes to bring the voltage regulator to operating temperature, then release the accelerator pedal
to stop the engine. Using a multimeter set to DC volt (DCV), place the red (+) probe on the large post of
the solenoid with the red wire from the voltage regulator attached. Place the black (-) probe on the negative
(-) post of battery. Depress the accelerator to start the engine, and run it at full governed speed. If
the reading is between 14.7 and 15.3 volts, the regulator is good. If the reading is lower than 14.7 volts
but rising steadily, check battery condition (See Hydrometer Test, Page 12. If the reading is lower
than 14.7 volts and not rising, and the starter/generator is good; or if the reading is over 15.3 volts and
continues to rise, replace voltage regulator

[Jdawg99]

Thanks for the info, I may need to check the generator side to see if it is charging. I cleaned the carb completely and removed the old fuel and put in fresh premix along with a new fuel filter and spark plug. Three turns and it started right away! Took it for a cruise around the neighborhood and it still needs some fine tuning. It does need the choke to restart and sometimes quits while driving and needs to run with the choke on. I think I have a few things I need to look at, but any further input would be appreciated.

[sccowboy]

Ok, from your earlier postings you have a 1991. You may want to look at the following: Compression, crank seals, and fuel pump flow rate. Compression should be 120 or so. When its running spray some carb cleaner behind the clutch and the fan area and see if the rpms pick up. If so the crank seals are leaky and need replacement. The fuel pump should give you a good flow of fuel when you hit the starter with the line off the carb.