Full Hydraulic Disc Brakes

[Shepard]

I've talk about this forever and now it's coming together. I have gotten another G2 transaxle to work on the bench with and setup my ideas. First I'm going to do a complete transmission rebuild. Replace all bearings and seals. Going to upgrade the gears to a 8 to 1 gear set.
I'm building caliper supports that holds a Jake's Brake caliper. Then I checked on WilWood Brakes site and found the same calipers from the kits but with a cable parking brake. I have a master cylinder that is made for 4 wheel disc brakes. I'm using bolt-on AN3 banjo fittings on bulk stainless braided Teflon brake line to make perfect fit brake lines. Once I have the top calipers set up 100% I want to use the original caliper supports and add a second caliper to each side. 2 disc brake units one with a parking brake. I already have Jake's Brakes on the front -- this will make it fully hydraulic.

[LimitedEdition]

I realize that this is early in your design phase, but how are you going to position the caliper over the disk. On my cart I have the Team axle in the rear and the Jake's hydraulic on the front and if needed I can lock up all four wheels. So I question the need for dual calipers on the rear. I like the work you have done so far and good luck with your project.

[smokindawg]

Nice work shepard........... I look forward to seeing it finished. I've been thinking about some type of disc brake set up for my carts as well.

[Shepard]

Originally Posted by LimitedEdition

I realize that this is early in your design phase, but how are you going to position the caliper over the disk. On my cart I have the Team axle in the rear and the Jake's hydraulic on the front and if needed I can lock up all four wheels. So I question the need for dual calipers on the rear. I like the work you have done so far and good luck with your project.

The axles were not pushed in and locked in the pictures. I'm waiting for new countersunk bolts for the caliper support, the bolts that hold the rotor on the adapter stud need clearance. The reason for 2 calipers per wheel is that I'm going to run a very large tire, at least 24 inches on the rear. I'm working on a long term project, adding all the necessary upgrades required for applying for a vin number to license it as a regular vehicle. As of now it is licensed as a utv and insured so I can get around on our back roads with atv signs. I want to be able to run it to town in the futher.

[Gregorio]

Do you think it will be easy to sync the application pressure and keep it there over time as the pads wear? Bigger calipers or all hydraulic would seem to have been simpler, no? Great undertaking, btw!

[Shepard]

Well I have one disc caliper setup and working, sorry no pictures yet. When I get the right side done I'll post some photos. I miscalculated a measurement and had to replace 4 of the fancy wheel studs from a Jake's brake kit. 78.00 later I had 4 studs and 4 nuts on there way. I hate making mistakes. I decided to use a proportioning valve in the rear -- the master cylinder is made for 4 wheel disc system in an Audi. I'll post some pictures late today.

[Shepard]

I was able to finish the second caliper setup this afternoon and get it mounted. I put it together in a mock up of what it may look like when it's finished. Hopefully when its finished completely there will be a second caliper 180 degrees on the bottom. I need a parking brake for what I'm building so I'm buying the companion caliper to the ones that come it the kits but have a cable park brake. I've been debating in my mind about buying high speed gears or going with 25 inch street tires. The tires themselves will be like having 8-1 gears over the 20 inch tires I'm running now. As it is now I have more power then the cart needs so I can see it turning 25" tires with no issues.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wilwood-120-...tVQaiT&vxp=mtr

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Aero-5...BS-,91797.html