2009 Precedent - Stops Running on Long Trips

[Vinish]

Lockman1, Thanks for the additional suggestion. Can you tell me where you are getting your exploded parts diagrams? They are useful.

This morning I tried to follow the service manual instructions for testing the engine kill circuit. This included the following steps:
1) Cam in maintenance mode
2) R/N/F handle in neutral
3) Disconnect the engine kill white/black wire at the bullet connector located next to the RPM limiter.
4) Key to on position
5) Press pedal to start cart

The procedure in the service manual says:
"If the engine begins to run, test the engine kill circuit for a shorted
wire or other failed components in the engine kill circuit."

My engine started just fine with the #3 above bullet connector disconnected and both ends NOT grounded to anything. It seems like the warning above suggests the engine should not start. Should the engine start?

This test procedure then has a warning that says with the black/white wire bullet connector disconnected, the engine should not turn off when you release the pedal. However, my engine shut off like normal when I released the pedal.

Do these new observations suggest anything to look at further?

[lockman1]

Before overthinking it, disconnect the ground wire for the limiter and see if that helps!

I don't have an 09 Precedent Illustrated Parts list, but here's an 08! (pretty much the same)

08PrecIPL-1.pdf

08PrecIPL-2.pdf

[CP241]

Originally Posted by lockman1

Before overthinking it, disconnect the ground wire for the limiter and see if that helps!

I don't have an 09 Precedent Illustrated Parts list, but here's an 08! (pretty much the same)

Attachment 194197

Attachment 194198

IF it was a microswitch problem, I've never seen one of those that will fail with heat. Not saying it's impossible (nothing is ever impossible) but it's pretty unlikely. Usually M/S will either "work" or "not work". Not much room for anything else...

Rev limiters are known to fail. And can fail with heat just like a coil. I'd disconnect that first, it only takes a few seconds to disconnect the ring terminal and tape it up. Then see if that helps.


Also, did you replace the coil with an OEM Kawasaki ignition coil? Or did you use an aftermarket ignition coil? I've never had any luck with aftermarket coils, and they cost just as much as the OEM coils do so it's not worth the hassle, especially with as difficult as it is to access the coil in these things.

[Vinish]

I used an aftermarket coil/igniter which cost about $35 which was a lot less than the $108 to $232 for OEM parts.

I have not before heard of microswitches being a possible concern for this type of problem. Where are they located?

Look at my test of the rpm limiter. Does this sound like it is working properly? The cart still ran with the one bullet connector disconnected and would still shut off when the pedal was released with this one bullet connector disconnected.

This is an intermittent problem related to heat. I ran the cart for 12 minutes yesterday in the 95 F heat and the problem occurred. I ran it for 20 minutes last night at 80 F and the problem did not occur. It makes it frustrating to diagnose the problem when I can only get it to occur some of the time.

[CP241]

Originally Posted by Vinish

I used an aftermarket coil/igniter which cost about $35 which was a lot less than the $108 to $232 for OEM parts.

I have not before heard of microswitches being a possible concern for this type of problem. Where are they located?

Look at my test of the rpm limiter. Does this sound like it is working properly? The cart still ran with the one bullet connector disconnected and would still shut off when the pedal was released with this one bullet connector disconnected.

This is an intermittent problem related to heat. I ran the cart for 12 minutes yesterday in the 95 F heat and the problem occurred. I ran it for 20 minutes last night at 80 F and the problem did not occur. It makes it frustrating to diagnose the problem when I can only get it to occur some of the time.

unplugging the bullet conncetor bypasses the limit switches, that test is for those not the rev limiter.

You need to disconnect the ring terminal on the brown wire of the rev limiter to bypass that. be sure to tape it up with electrical tape so it does not touch metal.

OEM Ignition coil should be somewhere around $125-130 bucks. I think that's about what I paid for the last one I bought at my local dealer. Trust me, the extra money is money well spent to not have to change the coil again for another 20 years. But I don't think the coil is your problem. If the rev limiter fails, it can behave just like a failing coil which is why we always tell folks to disconnect the ring terminal on the brown wire to bypass the rev limiter before replacing the coil. It is quick and easy. Getting to that coil is no fun and I only check that as a last resort when everything else is okay.

See this http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-c...-no-spark.html

[Vinish]

CP241, Thank you. I just went and conducted the test you recommended. It was just hot enough here in central FL to cause the problem to occur after about 15 minutes of running. I pushed it about 100 yds to my garage. I put it in neutral, adjusted the cam, and tried to start it but it would not start. I then took off the ground lead from the rev limiter and it started right up. I repeated the test 2-3 times touching the ground from the rev limiter to its mounting point and each time I touched it the engine would die. I just ordered a new one.

Is there any reason that the rev limiter has to be mounted against the hot engine? Could I mount it elsewhere in the engine compartment, lengthen the wires and attach them to where they need to attach (two bullet connectors and a ground)?

[Vinish]

The new rpm limiter arrived today and I installed it. I chose to not mount it in the original position on on the front lower part of the engine. Instead I mounted it on the plastic "shelf" in the engine compartment next to the voltage regulator. Time will tell if this new rpm limiter solves the problem.

[CP241]

I don't see any issues with relocating it somewhere else. I'm in south GA and never had any issues with them mounted to the engine in the stock location. But moving it away from heat and vibration certainly couldn't hurt it :)

Glad you got it going! Good news, you've probably got a good spare coil now. Hang onto that!

[Vinish]

I am pleased to report that the new rpm limiter has solved the problem. I had to take the cart on a 30 minute non-stop drive today going to the golf course in our community furthest from our home. The temperature outdoors was not too hot (around 82) but still, driving for 30 straight minutes would have caused a problem previously.

[lockman1]

Good to hear!